Where else can you see several natural wonders and be back at work on Monday?
“You just watched the newest land on earth be made” is not something you typically hear during a long getaway in the summer. But that’s what my tour guide was telling me just hours after finishing up work for the week. I was in Iceland for my first international trip since February 2020 and was there for just two nights. Incredibly, it was the perfect amount of time to experience bucket-list-worthy adventure, city exploration, and desperately-needed relaxation.
While most people might spend their long weekends driving to the beach or country, I decided to jet off to Iceland. It might seem crazy, but I promise it’s more than doable. And you might even get to see an active volcano like me.
Flights and COVID Restrictions
From New York, it’s a quick five-hour flight to Reykjavik, and Icelandair has a daily non-stop flight at 8:25 pm (JFK) and 8:30 pm (EWR). This means you could finish up work on a Thursday, head straight to the airport, and start your international getaway by 6 am Friday. The return flight is just as easy with a 5 pm daily departure out of Reykjavik back to the New York area, allowing for almost three full days on the ground. Furthermore, since some of the top attractions are within a couple of hours of the airport, it’s a prime destination to pack in a week’s worth of FOMO-inducing activities in just a few days.
I booked those quick flights out of Newark, opting for a Friday departure and Monday return home. During my travel dates, if you were vaccinated, a negative COVID test was no longer required. I just had to register my arrival at covid.is and needed to get a COVID test no more than 72 hours before returning to the U.S (the return COVID test can be booked here). All arrival COVID testing and quarantine restrictions from a few months ago have been removed.
It’s important to note that as of July 27, 2021, these rules shifted slightly. Now, “all travelers (regardless of vaccination status) must present a negative COVID-19 test result when boarding a flight to Iceland, no older than 72 hours.” However, you still don’t have to get tested on arrival in Iceland or quarantine. Icelandair makes the updated rules clear on their website if you have any questions.
Though quarantine and testing aren’t required, you should be prepared to spend at least an hour getting through customs and the document verification process. But thanks to an early landing, my husband and I were already on a bus to my hotel in Reykjavik by 7:30 am. I’d recommend pre-booking a transfer as the wait times for group transportation can be longer. We opted for Airport Direct’s Premium transfer option, which costs around $100 for two people one way with a direct drop-off at the hotel.
Day 1
Initially, our first day was supposed to consist of a quick power nap in the morning, an early afternoon dip and lunch at the new Sky Lagoon, followed by a few hours wandering the streets of Reykjavik. However, that all changed when our tour guide, Ryan Connolly of Hidden Iceland, informed us that due to weather predictions, the best chance of seeing molten lava was Saturday, the day we landed. Therefore, we rearranged our itinerary.
We checked in to ION City Hotel (many hotels can accommodate early check-in), grabbed the most heavenly cinnamon roll I’ve ever had at Brauð & Co and a latte at Sandholt, changed into hiking gear, and were in the car with Ryan by 9:45 am. We quickly swung by the COVID testing center to get our rapid tests needed to return home (it took about 30 minutes), and off we went to the Geldingadalir volcano.
“This is arguably the most tourist-friendly volcano in the world,” Ryan told us on the drive over. That’s because it’s just 30 minutes from the airport and you can get very close. And we certainly did.
We followed the C route–the access paths change with the lava flow–to reach the main crater viewing point. Along the way, we saw smoke still rising and recently cooled lava from the eruption that began on March 19, 2021. Unfortunately, there was also heavy fog at times, making visibility drop to nearly zero. Though hopeful, I was mentally preparing NOT to see lava like I hoped. And after about an hour of hiking to the viewpoint, that seemed likely. Although you could hear the gushing sound of lava spewing from the crater, we couldn’t see a thing.
“Are you willing to venture off the route a bit,” Ryan asked. “One of my guides saw a small lava flow around the corner from here.” Obviously, the answer was yes.
We trekked a bit longer, still through heavy fog, until all of a sudden, I looked up and saw a glow. At that moment, the clouds lifted, revealing a significant lava flow. I’m talking about a waterfall of lava pouring down one direction and a molten river flowing down the other. You could feel the heat, hear the crackling, and smell the burning landscape. It’s a sensory experience that is impossible to describe.
If that wasn’t enough, Ryan thought we could safely get closer. So, we hiked a bit more and ended up within an arm’s length of slowly moving lava. The heat was more intense than sitting right next to a bonfire. But, it was incredible to watch the earth change before our eyes.
We stayed in the area for about an hour, taking it all in before making our way back to the car. In total, we hiked about nine miles (easy to moderate difficulty) over approximately four hours. With the most adventurous part of the weekend already completed, it was prime time for some relaxation.
Covered in some mud and a bit damp from the rain, we arrived at the Sky Lagoon just before 5 pm to unwind from our lava-fueled afternoon. The geothermal pool opened just a couple of months ago and is about 15 minutes from downtown Reykjavik. It has quickly become an instant attraction. Although it’s smaller (and a different color) than the Blue Lagoon, it has its own appeal. The restorative destination is perched right on the ocean with rock formations perfectly framing where the thermal pool, sea, and sky all seem to meet.
Even though it was bustling, there was plenty of room in the locker rooms to get changed (we opted for the Sky Pass with private changing facilities) and find an intimate nook in the water. We even grabbed a couple of drinks at the swim-up bar before trying their seven-step ritual that included sitting in an oceanfront sauna.
Last on the itinerary for the day, before totally crashing, was grabbing dinner near our hotel in Reykjavik. Our choice? Ban Thai. Yes, Thai food might not be the first thing that comes to mind in Iceland. However, there are several restaurants, and this one has a menu of over 200 homemade items. So it was a solid choice before our 12-hour-long (desperately needed) night of sleep.
Day 2
We woke up feeling recovered despite a brief noise disturbance around 11 pm. Our hotel–ION City–is centrally located on a pedestrian-only street, making it ideal for exploring the city. However, the nearby bars can be a bit rowdy on the weekend (something the hotel warned us about). A sound machine on our phones ensured we got the rest we needed.
To start our day, we grabbed another cinnamon roll from Brauð & Co (it’s that good) and coffee from the popular Reykjavik Roasters before wandering around the charming seaside city. Reykjavik is a place where you could easily spend days. Even during our limited time, we checked out the ruins of one of the first houses in Iceland at The Settlement Exhibition, snapped a picture on Rainbow street located between Bergstaðastræti and Laugavegur, walked past the 244-foot-tall Hallgrímskirkja church, enjoyed the world’s best hot dog (according to Bill Clinton) with everything (ein með öllu) at the Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand, and stopped in several stores along the way.
By 2 pm, we were ready to head to our final stop of the weekend: The Retreat at the Blue Lagoon.
The architecturally modern five-star hotel is situated right on the famous Blue Lagoon and has private pools featuring the same colorful waters. After our welcome champagne and room tour, we got right into the water via the property’s spa. In fact, the spa and its rejuvenating focus are so prominent that guests are encouraged to wear their bathrobes everywhere except for the fine dining restaurant Moss. Yes, you even wear them to the complimentary afternoon tea.
Phones are forbidden in the spa area that includes several facilities, from a room of hanging “nests” and a steam cave to the blue waters themselves. It’s here where we engaged in the four-step, dimly-lit, 45-minute ritual that included three masks, showers, and oil treatments. After all that relaxing, we grabbed a quick bite at the casual (again bathrobes) Lava Restaurant before showering for our 8:30 pm dinner reservations at Moss.
It felt nice to dress up for what would be nearly a three-hour, seven-course meal paired with wines. Tasting menus are the only option at this highly-acclaimed restaurant, featuring seasonal ingredients and local favorites like skyr. The lamb–another Icelandic favorite–was even served on freshly-picked lava stone from the volcano we hiked just the day before.
With full bellies, we retired to our room, which had one of the most stunning views imaginable. A lava rock field and blue waters were the last things we saw before closing our eyes for the night.
Day 3
Sadly, our final day in Iceland had arrived. However, with our flight not until 5 pm, we had time for some last relaxing moments. We decided to try a floating massage after breakfast, which took place in a roped-off section of the Blue Lagoon. Although not the most intense massage you’ve ever had, it was profoundly relaxing due to the floating sensation.
With just a couple of hours left, we took a final dip in the public part of the Blue Lagoon. Despite it being busy, there was plenty of space to explore and enjoy this natural wonder in peace. (Pro tip: bring a waterproof carrier for your phone if you want photos).
After a quick shower and packing our belongings, we made our way to the airport for our departure. Unfortunately, due to COVID restrictions, it took us over an hour to check in and clear immigration. Therefore, arrive at least 2.5 hours early.
As we boarded the plane, I couldn’t believe we were already on the way home and how much we had accomplished in such a brief time. We saw two natural wonders, explored a new city, embarked on a four-hour hike, visited two spas, enjoyed a seven-course meal, and even had a massage. Consequentially, we made it home in time on Monday to put our three-year-old son to bed.
Our tour guide, Ryan, noted that you could pack in even more adventure if you wanted. For example, his company’s semi-private Volcanic Eruption Hike & Reykjanes Peninsula Tour can take you to see the volcano, Gunnuhver hot spring, geyser, and Krýsuvík geothermal area in just nine hours. Even with that schedule, you could still visit Reykjavik and the Blue Lagoon.
I’ve always known Iceland would make for an incredible vacation. However, knowing that it’s possible to explore over a long weekend makes it all the more appealing. So, if you’re considering how to utilize the rest of those summer Fridays, keep Iceland in mind. After all, volcanoes, geothermal waters, and geysers just aren’t things you’ll find in the Hamptons.