The word is out. Along with the perennial allure of the South of France – dazzling light, turquoise sea, palm-fringed beaches, and sun-drenched vines – there’s a real sense of something new in the balmy blue air. This is a Riviera-style revival. Whether it’s the resurrection of century-old landmarks-turned-night spots or the dynamic reinvention of Provençal cuisine by young chefs, there’s a plethora of vibrant experiences to explore. Moreover, pop-up designer beach clubs continue to dress up the sandy stretch of Pampelonne, while the exciting new boutiques of St Tropez are opening across the 15-kilometre-square village. Here’s how to spend three days navigating through the coastal towns without missing the essential places to visit.
Day One: Nice
Morning
Start your day with breakfast in Nice – France’s second-largest tourist destination after Paris. Head to the buzzing outdoor Cours Saleya Market behind the seafront, lined with cafés. Here, you’ll discover a dizzying array of stalls piled high with fresh fruits, vegetables, olives, plus organic bread and tartes aux citron at the Mitron Bakery stand. The flower market at the far end offers every local bloom under the Riviera sun. For an authentic experience, stand in line for socca, a paper-thin pancake made with chickpea flour and olive oil, sprinkled with black pepper. While you’re at the market, check out the latest exhibition at the photography museum, Musée de la Photographie Charles Nègre, then wander through the labyrinthine narrow streets of Vieux Nice, filled with galleries, boutiques, and churches. Don’t miss the much-revered jewel box Eglise de l’Annonciation, known as Sainte Rita, or the stunning Cathédrale Saint Réparate at Place Rossetti. If you’re in need of a caffeine kick, Frisson coffee shop offers delightful homemade beverages. For lunch, walk back to the Promenade des Anglais and enjoy seafood at the waterside Les Bains du Castel.
Afternoon
In the afternoon, head to the heights of Cimiez, which is Nice’s treasure trove of Belle Époque architecture. Once a major Roman outpost, this area showcases two neighboring museums dedicated to the Riviera’s modern masters who were long-time residents. Begin at the Musée Chagall and continue to the Musée Matisse. History enthusiasts can explore the remnants of Roman Baths at the Musée d’Archéologie, which also features a fascinating collection of ancient coins, pottery, and jewelry. Afterward, enjoy a refreshing drink at a cozy café within the vast park of olive groves and continue your exploration on foot to the Franciscan Monastery, complete with a beautiful rose garden just minutes away.
