Where Should You Shop for Food?
The most traditional place to shop for groceries in Portugal is the mercado, or fresh market. Unfortunately, these are a dying breed. Although vibrant fresh markets can be found in cities including Lisbon, Setúbal, and Olhão, today the vast majority of Portuguese people do most of their shopping at two types of venues.
A mercearia is essentially the corner shop, a small, typically privately-run grocery store that has the essentials and a decent selection of fruit. A good mercearia will also have a small vegetable section, a few types of bread, and perhaps even some cheeses and smoked meats.
A step up from this – at least in terms of scale – is the supermercado. Portuguese supermarkets, while convenient, do not always offer the best shopping experience. Frequently understaffed and with produce that lacks the diversity of local fare, they are often poor substitutes for fresh markets. However, they do offer some unique strengths. The Portuguese are among the highest consumers of fish globally, and even smaller supermarkets will carry a robust selection of fresh varieties. The wine selection is also noteworthy, offering excellent options at affordable prices.
Portugal is also home to a variety of specialist shops, although these are rapidly declining. A manteigaria, previously a store that sold butter, now often serves as a charcutaria selling prosciutto-style cured meats. Butcher shops, known as talhos, are still a thriving aspect of Portuguese shopping culture. Traditional stores selling bulk coffee and tea can be found, and while a garrafeira sells bottles of wine, conserveiras specialize in tinned seafood.
The Products You Can’t Leave Portugal Without Buying
Tinned Fish
Portugal is renowned for producing some of the world’s finest tinned fish, available at gourmet mercearias, supermercados, or specialist conserveiras. Look for products from acclaimed brands like Pinhais or opt for the unique round tins of fish pâté, such as those made by Manná or Fides.
Olive Oil
Portuguese olive oil offers exceptional value for money. Oils from Alentejo, located in inland central Portugal, are particularly delicious and easily accessible in most supermarkets. Additionally, seek out spicier varieties from Trás-os-Montes for a unique flavor experience.
Sausages & Smoked Meats
Portugal possesses a rich tradition of sausages and smoked meats. Be sure to look for presunto de porco preto, cured ham derived from Iberian black-footed pigs, and chouriço, a widely-loved spicy smoked sausage. Alheira, a unique sausage made with poultry and bread, is also highly recommended.
Cheeses
Don’t miss trying Queijo de São Jorge, a hard, aged cow’s milk cheese from the Azores, which travels particularly well. It pairs beautifully with marmelada, or quince paste, from brands such as Quinta do Côro.
Toiletries
Portugal produces wonderfully fragrant soaps that can be found in traditional drogarias and some supermarkets. Look for the Ach. Brito brand, known for its quality. Old-school drogarias also house a selection of vintage shaving supplies.
Tips for Shopping in Portuguese Food Shops
If visiting a traditional butcher or specialty shop, be prepared for a wait. For many locals, especially older generations, these visits serve as important social interactions beyond mere transactions.
Shopping Habits
The Portuguese generally reserve weekends, especially Sundays, for significant shopping excursions. During the week, many locals frequent butchers and fishmongers, emphasizing the importance of high-quality proteins in their diets.
Best Times to Shop
To enjoy a leisurely shopping experience, it is advisable to avoid weekends or late afternoons. Typically, the lines are shortest around 3 PM.
Shopping Etiquette
Interestingly, most Portuguese supermarkets have at least one security guard on duty, contributing to a secure shopping environment. Remember that bags are seldom provided for free; it’s wise to bring your own. When checking out, you’ll often be asked if you wish to register your contribuinte, mainly for tax reduction, but you can decline if you don’t possess a NIF.
Payment Methods
While most vendors now accept card payments, smaller mercearias may be cash-only or require card transactions above certain amounts. Signs indicating non-acceptance of cards will be displayed where applicable, and many locals utilize MBWay, a fund transfer app, for convenience.
