I started my morning along a wide swath of sandy beach, nary another soul in sight, before climbing high into the mountains through goblin-like forests. Around me, everything was a million shades of green, save for the occasional burst of color: electric-blue mushrooms; neon orange lichen; and the red underside of a kākā’s wings as it swooped down low beside my head. Finally emerging above the treeline, I was rewarded with 360-degree views of one of New Zealand’s most remote and jaw-droppingly beautiful corners: Fiordland National Park.
I was trialing the 61km (38-mile) Hump Ridge Track, which will become New Zealand’s newest Great Walk in October 2024 once upgrades are complete – only the second to be added to the renowned hiking collection in about 30 years.
What are New Zealand’s Great Walks?
Managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC), New Zealand’s Great Walks are a collection of 11 multiday hikes (called “tramps” in Kiwi) that showcase the diversity of New Zealand’s landscape, from volcanic plateaus to golden-hued beaches. These iconic trails are considered some of the most accessible backcountry experiences in Aotearoa (the Māori language name for New Zealand).
The trails are easy to follow, with hikers staying in huts staffed by wardens and equipped with shared bunk rooms, kitchens, and outhouses along the way, although camping is also an option on some of the trails. Their popularity, length, and difficulty vary, with most lasting between three and five days. Interestingly, some aren’t even walks at all. The Whanganui Journey, in the central North Island, is a canoe trip, while mountain biking is permitted on the West Coast’s Paparoa Track and Kahurangi National Park’s Heaphy Track.
How can I book a Great Walk?
The process for booking a spot on the Great Walks can be quite competitive. To secure your desired dates, be prepared and consider having more than one member of your party ready to register. It’s essential to mark your calendar for the booking day.
In 2024, bookings for the Great Walk Season (running roughly from October 2024 to April 2025) will open on the following dates:
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May 28 at 9:30am NZST: Milford Track, Lake Waikaremoana Track
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May 30 at 9:30am NZST: Abel Tasman Coast Track, Rakiura Track, Whanganui Journey
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June 5 at 9:30am NZST: Routeburn Track, Paparoa Track
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June 6 at 9:30am NZST: Kepler Track, Heaphy Track, Tongariro Northern Circuit
On the booking day for your walk of choice, ensure you’re logged in and prepared with a form of payment, along with the necessary information for each hiker in your group.
Notably, the Hump Ridge Track booking can be done directly through the walk’s dedicated website, allowing for bookings up to a year in advance.
Are there any insider secrets to scoring a Great Walk spot?
While being flexible on your travel dates can greatly increase your chances of securing a spot, there are additional tips for success.
First, choose your desired dates wisely. Bookings during the summer school holiday period, which spans late December to early February, are highly sought-after. For optimal weather and availability, consider early December or March instead. Interestingly, booking a couple of hours after the DOC system opens can be advantageous. Many hikers attempt to secure spots for their entire group at once, leading to cancellations later in the day.
Moreover, openings might occur later in the season. Active members of the Tramping in New Zealand Facebook group often post about canceled bookings, providing alerts for available dates in the system.
Finally, for those with a larger budget, opting for guided Great Walks experiences offered by tour operators can bypass the booking frenzy altogether. Packages typically include accommodation, meals, and transfers, albeit at a higher price point.
What’s the new Hump Ridge Track like? And is the Milford Track really worth the hype?
Both the Hump Ridge Track and Milford Track traverse the stunning landscapes of Fiordland National Park, although they offer distinctly different experiences. The Milford Track is famously known as the “finest walk in the world,” showcasing breathtaking isolation, picturesque valleys, and cascading waterfalls, particularly enchanting on a rainy day.
Conversely, the community-owned Hump Ridge Track provides a wonderful alternative for those seeking adventure in the same region. With its subalpine environment, visitors can enjoy views of Stewart Island/Rakiura and traverse boardwalks along ridgelines, before descending into moss-covered forests.
Noteworthy attractions on the Hump Ridge Track include the longest viaduct in the southern hemisphere and the chance to swim with wild Hector’s dolphins in Port Craig, a remarkable ghost town situated on the route.
I didn’t get a Great Walk booking. What are some alternative hikes?
If you’ve missed out on booking a Great Walk this year, there are other beginner-friendly ways to experience New Zealand’s stunning landscapes.
Try a Great Walk day hike instead
Local tour operators can assist you in experiencing a short portion of a Great Walk, without the burden of carrying your gear. For instance, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, regarded as New Zealand’s best single-day hike, is part of the longer Tongariro Northern Circuit. If you seek a scenic experience on the Whanganui Journey, consider taking a jet boat from Pipiriki to the Bridge to Nowhere and paddle back to your starting point.
Choose a different multi-day walk
New Zealand boasts countless great hiking experiences beyond the official Great Walks. Noteworthy alternatives include the Coromandel’s two-day Kauaeranga Kauri Trail, the Marlborough Sounds’ Queen Charlotte Track, and the more challenging Cape Brett Track in Northland.
The official “Great Walks Season” spans from October to April in the southern hemisphere. While it’s possible to access some Great Walks outside of this season, be warned that conditions can be harsh, including possible flooding, freezing temperatures, and high winds. During this period, huts are not staffed or serviced.
What do I need to pack for a Great Walk?
The huts along the Great Walks come equipped with shared bunk rooms, sleeping mats, outhouses, and kitchens with gas stoves and running water. However, it’s essential to bring suitable footwear and clothing, including wet weather gear for notoriously rainy hikes like the Milford Track.
You will also need a sleeping bag, cooking utensils, and all food for the duration of your adventure. Thankfully, local outfitters in towns near the trailheads offer gear rentals, helping you prepare for your journey with convenience.
For detailed information regarding each Great Walk—including safety tips, elevation maps, and packing lists—be sure to check the DOC’s website.
This article was first published May 18, 2022, and updated May 20, 2024.
