Discover Paris: A Gentle Stroll Through the City’s Hidden Gems
Delve into Local Strolls, a series where writers reveal their favorite walks in their hometowns. Each route offers a snapshot of urban life, guiding you to lesser-known attractions and cherished local spots. Here, Vivian Song takes us on a gentle stroll past shops, through gardens, and along the river in Paris.
In some ways, one of my favorite walking itineraries in Paris contradicts the very definition of that most famous and poetic of French verbs, “flâner” or to stroll. Some purists might point out that my oft-repeated route has a predetermined start and finish line, while the point of “flâner” is to wander aimlessly, not knowing where their walk will lead them. However, I would argue that switching to autopilot and repeating a familiar and comforting walking routine can also produce moments of awe, pleasure, and discovery if done with the same spirit of aimless wandering: without haste, with no agenda, and always with a sweet treat.
This particular itinerary actually starts at Mochi Mochi Aki, a small Japanese take-out dessert shop on rue Saint-Anne that is surrounded by Japanese and Korean restaurants and grocers. I order my usual passion fruit mochi and resist the urge to bite into the ridiculously soft and pillowy sweet rice cake until I reach my next destination, the Jardin du Palais Royal, five minutes away. If I’m feeling particularly indulgent, I may also stop at Matcha Social Club to pick up an iced strawberry matcha latte for the walk over.
At the park, I will amble leisurely up and down the tree-lined alleys, chuckling at the waddling toddlers chasing after dogs, and the dogs chasing after pigeons. Consequently, I take dozens of photos of the gardens because I rarely leave my DSLR camera behind on leisurely outings.
After a long sit under the shade, enjoying one of the best mochis in Paris, I unwind with a bit of reading and people-watching. Following this, I’ll make my way out of the park toward the Louvre and the Seine to indulge in another of my Parisian pastimes: crossing bridges. I cross as many as I can on this route, zigzagging between the Left and Right Banks, where views from either side of the river offer beautifully different perspectives.
After crossing Pont du Carrousel, I head south on the Left Bank and then cross Pont des Arts, the pedestrian bridge where buskers entertain passersby with lively performances. I continue along the upper quay to greet the open-air booksellers or bouquinistes and peruse their latest wares.
This brings me to the majestic Pont Neuf, which means “new bridge” yet is actually the oldest standing bridge in Paris. Here, I join other tourists in taking in views of the Seine, the Eiffel Tower, and the pedestrians strolling along the quay below. Even after 14 years in Paris, I never tire of scenes like this. Although I cross this bridge too, I stop short of reaching the Left Bank and veer midway into Île de la Cité’s Place Dauphine, a lovely triangle-shaped public square filled with friends playing pétanque, couples on weekend dates, and parents following their toddlers who chase small dogs.
Remaining on the upper quays, I’m now ready for the last stretch of my itinerary. I cross the Pont au Change and take the stairs that lead down to the lower quay on Voie Georges Pompidou. Formerly a major traffic artery, the riverside banks on both sides of the Seine became car-free in 2017, granting Parisians nearly 8 km (5 miles) of scenic waterfront promenades lined with pétanque courts, terraces, and children’s play areas.
The strolling experience down here is distinct. Those on wheels — bikers, skateboarders, e-scooters, and roller skaters — weave their way between pedestrians. This collective experience seems to encourage everyone to walk at a relaxed pace that harmonizes with the calm flow of the Seine beside us. As I reach Pont Marie, allowing me to take the metro line 7 straight home, I glance back at the beautiful scenery before me and am reminded of Victor Hugo’s words: “To wander is human; to stroll is Parisian.”
Distance: Approx 3.8 km
Time: Approx one hour