The Culinary Landscape of Florence by iBestTravel
Food is big business in Florence. The city council introduced a law limiting the opening of new bars and restaurants in the UNESCO-listed city center. This measure was a response to concerns about the excess of tourist-focused dining options, exacerbated by a significant increase in restaurants between 2005 and 2015.
In the center of this Renaissance city, there is approximately one dining establishment for every 31 residents. While the array of culinary options seems endless, locals tend to gravitate towards familiar foods. Lengthy queues outside trendy venues are often met with skepticism. Hence, terms like “traditional,” “authentic,” and “genuine” have become overused descriptors that may no longer hold much weight.
For Florentines, culinary reputation is paramount. Most Elitists remain devoted to time-honored favorites, demonstrating a general skepticism towards newcomers. Here is a curated selection of trusted places to savor food and drink in Florence.
Breakfast
The day often starts with a shot of bitter espresso at the nearest cafe. For many locals, this means visiting Bar Piccioli, a quaint and nostalgic patisserie in Borgo Ognissanti. Italian breakfasts are quick, consisting typically of a sweet pastry and espresso, usually enjoyed while standing at the bar. Piccioli’s owner, Claudio, has been serving exquisite cornetti (croissants) and a variety of morning delicacies fresh from the oven for decades.
The rotating selection of crunchy croissants—ranging from zabaglione (egg and Marsala custard) to pistachio—are a safe bet. Depending on the timing of your visit, you might also be treated to maritozzi (brioche buns) filled with whipped cream or seasonal specialties like rice frittelle, which are available in the spring.
Coffee
Circolo Rondinella is an exceptional meeting place found just off the road for daily coffee gatherings. Many locals choose to linger here throughout the day, coffee in hand, overlooking the Arno River and the historical Torrino di Santa Rosa. This spot often hosts groups of elderly gentlemen enjoying lively games of briscola while sipping a glass of wine.
At Rondinella, patrons enjoy standard espresso shots, and lunch features a seasonal menu of pastas and main courses. Interestingly, social clubs like Circolo Rondinella are cornerstones of Tuscan culture, serving as community hubs where people gather over shared interests.
Lunch
While many restaurants in Florence feature plant-based dishes, vegetarians may find it challenging in a traditionally meat-centric region. One standout option is Il Vegetariano, which serves a rotating menu of a dozen meat-free specialties inspired by local recipes. This restaurant has been a pioneer in vegetarian cuisine in a location renowned for its T-bone steak since the 1980s.
Il Vegetariano is not just a vegetarian spot; it offers good food overall, meaning even meat-eaters will find plenty to appreciate. With quirky decor and a loyal stream of regulars, don’t miss out on sampling the cakes as well as the savory dishes.
Aperitivo
If you enjoy wine paired with background music, make your way to Vineria Sonora. This lively wine bar on Via degli Alfani is known for its impressive selection of natural, organic, and biodynamic wines from independent Italian producers, featuring weekend DJ sets for an exceptional atmosphere.
Dinner
As the evening unfolds, consider heading to Trattoria Accadì, just a stone’s throw from Vineria Sonora, to indulge in hearty Tuscan cuisine. This trattoria features a cozy ambiance with dark wood furniture and a handwritten menu showcasing Tuscan classics. Here, you’ll enjoy dishes like fried artichokes and traditional stews such as peposo (spiced beef) and ribollita (vegetable soup).
Bar
If you wish to continue your night, head over to Circolo Aurora, located in Piazza Tasso, where you can enjoy cocktails under Florence’s ancient city walls. This bar is distinct in its charm, featuring regular live jazz nights and open mic sessions. The decor is a nostalgic trip back in time, making it an ideal setting for creatives and night owls alike.
