Filter Coffee in South India: A Bengaluru Tradition
India may be renowned for its fragrant, spice-infused chai, but in Bengaluru and across South India, another hot caffeinated drink reigns supreme—filter coffee. Walk past any local breakfast joint in Bengaluru, and you’ll see swarms of individuals at stainless steel tables enjoying fluffy idlis (South Indian spongy, round, fermented rice cake) and crispy masala dosas alongside steaming cups of filter coffee, also known as filter kaapi.
The Essence of South Indian Filter Coffee
The strong brew is milky, sweet, and often blended with chicory, creating a frothy coffee experience that many Bangaloreans cherish. Whether enjoyed at home, in vintage or contemporary coffee houses, or at quick-service darshini cafes (vegetarian fast food spots), South Indian filter coffee has become a way of life for many.
Suhas Dwarkanath, a local coffee expert, describes it: “It is bold, it is intense, and it is a small, short cup of coffee.”
South India’s Coffee History
South Indians’ love for coffee has deep roots. According to legend, Baba Budan, a 16th-century Sufi saint, smuggled seven coffee beans from Yemen to India, planting them in the Chandradrona Hills near Bengaluru. This marked the beginning of coffee cultivation in South India.
Studies suggest little genetic variation in Indian coffee, supporting the Baba Budan story, making it a topic of intrigue among coffee researchers. By the 20th century, coffee flourished in southern states like Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Kerala. Karnataka alone produces over 70% of India’s coffee, much of which is exported, turning regions like Coorg and Chikmagalur into travel hotspots.
Bengaluru: The Coffee Capital of India
Karnataka’s capital, Bengaluru, is famously recognized as the coffee capital of India. The city is home to iconic filter coffee spots and has birthed modern coffee culture, including large chains and specialty coffee houses. Since the 1940s, when the Coffee Board of India established its headquarters in Bengaluru, the city has evolved into the epicenter for coffee enthusiasts. The recent explosion of specialty coffee houses may pose challenges to traditional filter coffee, but it shows no signs of fading in South India.
“Even after tasting the best and most expensive coffees globally, I still crave chicory-based South Indian filter coffee for its nostalgia,” Dwarkanath shares.
The Art of Brewing Filter Coffee
Creating filter coffee is a meticulous process involving dark roasted coffee and chicory. The traditional Indian coffee filter, consisting of two cylindrical metal cups, is crucial. Finely ground coffee is placed in the upper cup, lightly tamped, and simmered with boiled water. The brewed coffee, known as decoction, trickles down to the lower cup and typically takes about 10 to 15 minutes to brew.
After the decoction is ready, boiled milk, along with sugar or jaggery, is added. Traditionally, the coffee is served in a brass or stainless steel tumbler, allowing for cooling and mixing through a graceful pouring technique.
Top Coffee Spots in Bengaluru
Bengaluru boasts a plethora of cafés serving exceptional filter coffee, and each local will likely have their recommendations. Here are some notable establishments:
Brahmin’s Coffee Bar
A cherished institution in Basavanagudi, Brahmin’s Coffee Bar has been serving filter coffee since the 1960s. With standing tables and affordable prices, it’s a go-to spot for both coffee and South Indian delicacies.
Mavalli Tiffin Room (MTR)
Having catered to Bengaluru’s dining scene for nearly a century, MTR is renowned for its filter coffee paired with an array of South Indian dishes.
Veena Stores
Initially a local condiments shop established in 1977, this no-frills eatery is now popular for its filter coffee and breakfast offerings, featuring unlimited mint coconut chutney.
Indian Coffee House
Opened in the 1950s, this historic establishment maintains its old-school charm and serves both filter coffee and diverse dishes.
Rameshwaram Cafe
With three locations in Bengaluru, Rameshwaram Cafe has rapidly gained popularity for its filter coffee and specialties like ghee pudi idlis and dosas.
Experience the Coffee Culture of India
From the rich history of coffee cultivation to the vibrant coffee culture in Bengaluru, exploring the world of filter coffee is an enriching journey. As you sip on a cup of filter kaapi, you’re partaking in a tradition that is deeply woven into the fabric of South Indian life.
