Discover Bologna: A Guide to Italy’s Culinary Capital

Lovingly referred to as La Grassa (the fat one, for its hearty food traditions), La Dotta (the learned one, a nod to its famed university, founded in 1088) and La Rossa (the red one, for both its terracotta-hued buildings and its famously left-wing politics), Bologna presents a tantalizing trifecta of medieval might to visitors.

First and foremost, the city’s glorious food legacy, from which arose one of Italy’s most heralded dishes, ragù (please don’t call it bolognese), is arguably the country’s most coveted. Furthermore, its university (known as Unibo) has ensured a steady stream of culture, innovation, and forward-thinking enlightenment for nearly 950 years. Additionally, its medieval historic center, a stunning confection of UNESCO-listed porticos and boundless architectural gems, cements the entire easy-on-the-eyes patchwork together.

When is the Best Time to Visit Bologna?

Being at heart a big university town, Bologna is a dynamic city with plentiful cultural attractions, bars, and restaurants that stay lively year-round. With over 61 km (38 miles) of porticos in the center, the city is manageable even in inclement weather. However, if you’re seeking the ideal time, then April (pleasant weather but not swarming with high-season crowds) and September to October (when most of the crowds have thinned) fit the bill. Avoid August when the city is hot, muggy, and mostly closed – many Bolognesi flee to more touristy locales for their summer holidays.

Is it Easy to Get Around Bologna?

Bologna is Italy’s seventh-largest city, but its medieval city center is best enjoyed on foot. From its western boundary at Porta San Felice to its eastern boundary at Porta Maggiore, it’s just 2.6 km (1.6 miles) across. If you prefer relying on public transport, the bus system is well-connected throughout the city center and outlying suburbs. Tickets may be purchased at any tobacco shop (known as a tabaccheria) or on board with coins and/or credit cards (including contactless). A 10-trip City Pass is €14.

Top Things to Do in Bologna

Bologna’s best and most unique attractions are intrinsically linked to the city. Casa di Lucio Dalla, for example, is the fascinating home museum of legendary Italian singer-songwriter and Bologna native Lucio Dalla. Following suit with the city’s designation as a UNESCO Creative City of Music, the San Colombano – Collezione Tagliavini is an extraordinary assembly of musical instruments amassed by the late octogenarian organist Luigi Tagliavini housed in a stunningly restored church.

The Teatro Anatomico, part of the world’s oldest continually-operating university, is a jarring throwback to 17th-century medical school dissections. Additionally, a wander around the atmospheric Quadrilatero, the city’s medieval market area, reveals food stalls, greengrocers, delis, and divey wine bars, which have been slinging vino since 1465.

What to Eat in Bologna

Where to begin? With pizza, risotto, and gelato being notable exceptions, nearly all of Italy’s most widely-adored contributions to the global dinner table hail from Bologna and/or the surrounding region of Emilia-Romagna. Lasagna, tortellini, ragù (with tagliatelle, not spaghetti), mortadella, prosciutto (Parma), balsamic vinegar (Modena), and Parmesan cheese top the list, but there’s plenty more where that came from.

Among the less famous (but every bit as delicious) dishes born in Bologna and/or Emilia, polpette con piselli (meatballs with peas), tortelloni di ricotta con burro e salvia (ricotta-stuffed pasta with butter and sage), gramigna alla salsiccia (pasta with sausage), and crescentine/tigelle (fried dough/bread rounds, stuffed with cheese, salumi, etc.) top the list. Long dinner short, this is the land of egg pasta and all manner of pork! Vegetarians notwithstanding, Bologna is irrefutably one of Italy’s best cities for food and is in fact the main reason people visit.

How to Get to Bologna

Arriving in Bologna by Air

Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) welcomes flights from around the EU as well as locations further afield such as London, Dubai, Istanbul, and Casablanca, among others. A taxi to the city center runs between €15-20, while the Marconi Express people mover heads directly to the train station in under eight minutes for €11.

Arriving in Bologna by Train

Bologna Centrale is a major high-speed rail station on Italy’s main train line, making most big cities easily reachable on direct trains. Approximate travel times on Italy’s fastest train, Frecciarossa 1000, include Milan (one hour), Florence (38 minutes), Rome (two hours), and Naples (3.5 hours). The train station is a 15 to 20-minute walk from most locations in the center.

Arriving in Bologna by Car

Particularly, Bologna sits along Italy’s longest and most important highway, the A1 (Autostrada del Sole), which dissects the country from Milan to Naples. It’s part of the greater European routes E45 (Norway to Italy) and E35 (The Netherlands to Italy).

How Much Money Do I Need for Bologna?

• Hostel bed: around €50

• Basic room for two: between €80–150

• Self-catering apartment: from €150

• Public transport ticket: €1.50 for a single ride, €6 for a day ticket

• Coffee: €1.10

• Pint at a craft beer bar: €6

• Tagliatelle with ragù: €12

• Dinner for two with a bottle of local wine: €60