Explore Tokyo: A Local’s Guide
Rebecca Milner moved to Tokyo for “just one year” 15 years ago. Drawn by the city’s larger-than-life image, she was surprised to discover just how liveable Tokyo truly is. Today, she spends her days wandering the back streets, tracking down new restaurants, and writing in cafes.
Top Spots to Show Friends
When I have friends in town, I always take them to the shrine Meiji-jingū, not too far from where I live. I get many visitors, so doing touristy things can become routine, but I’m always excited to visit Meiji-jingū. It’s a big patch of forest right in the middle of the city. The shrine sells charms (called omamori) for safe travel that I often send to family and friends before they hop on a flight. If the weather is nice, we might spend an afternoon walking in the grassy park Yoyogi-kōen, too.
Shopping Adventures
I enjoy shopping at the consignment shop Ragtag in Harajuku, where you can find items from Comme des Garçons, Vivienne Westwood, etc., in good shape. Additionally, I love rummaging through the secondhand shops in Shimo-Kitazawa or Kōenji. Akomeya is another favorite, a gourmet deli specializing in Japanese cuisine offering beautifully packaged jars of miso and other seasonings. I’ve been picking up many gifts for friends and family from here lately.
Culinary Delights
When I’m looking to indulge, I head out with my husband or friends to restaurants in the Aoyama neighborhood or the bistros and bars between Tomigaya and Shibuya. I always have a list of places to try, but Narukiyo and Ahiru Store are among my go-to options. Narukiyo offers a delightful take on Japanese pub fare, while Ahiru is an intimate French bistro that, despite its size, delivers an enjoyable vibe. I also love the terrace at Two Rooms for a sundown cocktail while enjoying a stunning view of Harajuku’s rooftops.
Finding Peace Away from Crowds
To escape the crowds, I often work through weekends and take time off during the week to visit exhibitions. Meeting up with friends during the week allows me to avoid the chaos of Shinjuku Station on a Friday night, which can be quite overwhelming!
Quick Bites on the Go
For quick, cheap eats, I frequent the konbini (convenience store). My go-to snacks include tamago sando (egg salad sandwiches) and onigiri (rice balls) filled with ikura (salmon roe). Convenience store egg salad sandwiches have a cult following, with many opinions on which chain makes the best (I prefer the ones at 7-Eleven). I also enjoy curry-pan, deep-fried doughnuts filled with Japanese-style curry, available at any bakery chain.
Lifestyle Observations
One thing I find challenging about Tokyo is its smoking culture. Many restaurants and almost all bars allow smoking, which is difficult for staff—having worked in a small, poorly ventilated bar, I understand the struggle. However, smoking on city streets is banned, making it rare to see cigarette butts on the ground.
Life in Tokyo can be quite calm. Despite the summer heat, crowded trains, and busy streets, it’s uncommon to see people lose their tempers. Many individuals are often engrossed in their smartphones.
Summer Festivals
One of my favorite aspects of Tokyo is the summer festivals. Throughout the city, various events occur, from evening fireworks displays to folk dance parades and local carnivals. Many attendees wear colorful yukata (traditional cotton kimono), and vendors sell delicious cheap food such as yaki-soba (fried noodles) and beer. Although summers can be hot and humid, evenings provide perfect weather to enjoy the festivities.
Weekend Getaways
When I want to escape the city, I head to Nagano, my mother-in-law’s family origin, where we take a family trip each summer. Karuizawa, the closest part, is just a two-hour drive from Tokyo. We stock up on fresh produce at local farm stands—much cheaper than in the city! I also enjoy Kamakura, a laid-back beach town famous for its temples, located just an hour’s train ride south of Tokyo.
Familiarity and Routine
Tokyo feels like home to me, as I can navigate the subway system on autopilot. Sometimes, I don’t even recall changing lines, but I arrive at my destination nonetheless. Recently, I discovered a poorly marked tunnel in Shinjuku Station leading directly to the Narita (airport) Express tracks, illustrating how the city can feel like a video game at times.
I’m not myself in the mornings without coffee, which is why I’m grateful for the vibrant indie coffee scene in my area. Many of my mornings begin at Fuglen, an excellent spot that opens early, known for great cocktails as well.
