iBestTravel’s People You Meet series profiles individuals who make lasting impressions and help you connect more deeply with the destination.
“Pick any building in London from any time, and it’ll have queer people in its history,” says Mark T Cox, as we huddle in a small group by The Clermont Hotel in Charing Cross. “Drop a pin anywhere in London and you could do this tour: Vauxhall, Earl’s Court, Dalston.”
The area Mark has chosen to walk us through 2000 years of queer history is in the heart of London: the West End, weaving us from Charing Cross through Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus to Chinatown and Soho. It’s a pay-what-you-can system, making the tours and this intriguing history accessible for everyone.
Mark is well versed in the city’s queer scene. A former organ player at his small local church in County Clare, Mark moved his talents to Dublin at age 17 to carve out a cabaret career at The George, Ireland’s oldest queer venue.
Some 10 years ago, he moved to London and has since become a staple name at many of London’s queer spots. Performing as a pianist, entertainer, storyteller, and comedian (often in a very beautiful big dickie bow), he has regular stints at venues such as The Glory, Dalston Superstore, the CellarDoor, and the London Irish Centre – where he exudes a warm, cheerful, and nourishing presence to the crowd. Nights with Mark are filled with piano sing-alongs, queer anthems, and incredibly produced original tales.
Integrating his passion and queer knowledge into the city during the day has been a long-held ambition. “My background is in architecture and I’ve wanted to run these tours since before the pandemic, but I’ve now been doing them for two or three years,” he shares. “I love doing them – I do other tours, but this feels more meaningful.”
Queer History in London
Since its very founding, with the Romans’ arrival some 2000 years ago, queer relationships have been part of the record of London. Back then, two men in partnership wouldn’t be unusual or notable, Mark explains. The history of the LGBTQ+ community has taken shape at the buildings and places we stop at today.
The infamous Buggery Act came into law in 1533, condemning queer relationships through legal force – a concept that originated in London before being widely exported all over the world through colonization. Figures who have passed through the buildings on our tour – including Oscar Wilde – were subsequently imprisoned based on rumors or suspicions surrounding their sexuality. Every topic and fact we cover comes with an all-encompassing air of compassion and kindness from Mark, enriched with humor that reflects his lived experience.
We walk through Trafalgar Square, which today is filled with other celebrations. Every June, we see Pride set up its main stage here. “Here is where people will come and listen to someone from X Factor,” Mark jokes. However, historically, Pride has been a balance of party and protest. He notes the current environment: “This year, we’ll see the protest element coming back with everything going on – we’re not in a great place at the moment with trans issues and rights.”
We pass the grand buildings of Piccadilly Circus, once a queer center in a run-down neighborhood transformed in the 1850s. “The great thing about this city is you take a turn and are in a totally different area,” says Mark. With this, we enter Chinatown, previously another queer spot, known for its underground parties. It was here where teahouses that stayed open 24 hours created unofficial queer spaces where patrons wouldn’t be hassled.
“It was a way to access the ‘pink pound.’ In the 1800s, men had a lot of disposable income. Working for the nearby government and palaces, they could afford these things, allowing staff to usher away straight people to make safe spots for queers. However, while London has a vast history for queer men, women have often been overlooked,” Mark states.
While men typically had more income, women weren’t allowed into many spaces. “Historically, the majority of things were queer men catering to themselves. We still see some inequality there today,” he adds.
Finding Spaces for Community
It was in these spaces where we saw minority groups come together. The Shim Sham Club on Wardour St was a popular meeting spot in the 1930s for the queer and black communities who came to enjoy jazz music. “They began to support each other, even as police would flirt and then arrest them.”
Today, we find ourselves in Soho, one of the biggest queer districts in the city, lined with flags and sex shops. “In 1990, Village opened – and it changed everything. It was on the ground floor and had clear glass windows. For the first time, you could walk by and see queer people just like in a coffee shop or restaurant,” Mark explains.
This led to Soho becoming a more openly queer area. Walking through Dean St, we discuss progress and stagnant points surrounding sexual health and stigma before arriving in Soho Square. Mark’s expression becomes solemn as we gather to conclude the tour.
“I’d love to end this tour on a happier note. We have this big history. I should be saying we’re purely making progress; however, it’s the opposite,” Mark reflects. “We’re facing a downward trend, particularly regarding trans issues. There’s horrific hatred and attacks happening right here in Soho, fueled by the media.”
In July, for the first time, Trans+ Pride will take center stage at Trafalgar Square. “A lot of energy and focus used to be on gay rights, but the same attention is needed for trans rights. Pride this year is critical because we must continue the fight for equal rights for all queer people. It shouldn’t just be the responsibility of the queer community.”
