Rocky Tinos flies under the radar among Greece’s Cycladic big hitters. But its wild, marble-carved beauty makes it a quietly romantic hit…
In the village of Pyrgos on Tinos, an immense and aged plane tree in the central square casts morning light like leaping green flames. Famous for its marble sculptors, the serene ambiance here allows one to hear only the sound of chisels against stone. White marble memorials and elegant busts can be found throughout the village, paying homage to the heroes of 1821, captured in marble, reflecting the cultural heritage of this enchanting island, which lies merely 30 minutes by boat from Mykonos.
‘That tree is thirsty,’ a local acquaintance remarks, as we observe through a delicate array of leaves a class of schoolchildren enjoying yoghurt and honey at the café nearby. Everyone appears neat for the new term, their attentive faces watched by thin, curious cats. The scene encapsulates a deeper experience, where time feels suspended as we admire a local individual laboriously carrying a hunk of marble through the picturesque streets.
Tinos exudes a unique charm. With a pristine sky so clear one can see every detail of the distant landscape, including the peaks of neighboring Cycladic islands like Syros, Delos, and Paros, one can truly appreciate the natural beauty it offers. However, the winds dominate for most of the year, transforming the sea and sky into a vibrant, ever-changing canvas. The aromatic scents of dittany, sage, and woody fleabane merge, creating an intoxicating atmosphere as one leisurely drives along the winding road towards the coast, immersed in the serene Mediterranean landscape.
This island is steeped in myth and spirituality. Tinos was historically a cherished site of worship for Poseidon. A revered shrine to the Virgin Mary was established in Chora in 1823, drawing pilgrims from afar who arrive to be healed, often crawling from the ferry along a vibrant carpet leading up to the grand Panagia Megalochari church that drapes itself in crimson satin like an exquisite wedding cake.
Later, I stop by the port to observe a recently moored yacht, its wooden deck adorned with elegant Persian rugs. Nearby, I spot a young woman disembarking from a ferry, adjusting her kneepads as she begins her ascent uphill, her husband walking alongside with her bag, reflecting the island’s relaxed pace of life. This quaint scene exemplifies the essence of Tinos — a blend of tradition and rich culture. I am intrigued by the local atmosphere filled with olfactory delights, ranging from dried octopus hanging under the warm sun to charming coffee shops reverberating with classic tunes.
My friend Heidi, who visited Tinos in September 1980 as a spirited young Swiss divorcee, found solace among the island’s magnificent landscape. Rather than seeking the opulence of the South of France or the distractions of Spain and Italy, Heidi sought genuine tranquility and community. The island’s agricultural abundance, showcasing lush cabbages, sun-dried tomatoes, and grapes that make some of the finest wines, made Tinos feel prosperous. Despite their robust resources, Tinos’ reputation often faced comparison to the lively Mykonos or industrious Syros, but Heidi was eager to uncover its true essence.
Tinos showcases the very essence of Greek culture, embracing you with its energy and vibrancy. During the spring, the island’s flowers flourish, and the landscape is dotted with cypress trees standing tall against the backdrop of the azure sea. Tinos boasts quite a few exquisite villages, each with its unique charm and architectural beauty, including Xinara, perched on Mount Exomvourgo; Volax with its poetic inscriptions; and picturesque Kardiani, which tumbles down steep hills adorned with colorful gardens of chestnuts.
At Loutra, artist Sabrina Binda creates stunning ceramic pieces within the walls of a repurposed Jesuit monastery, capturing the rich legacy of craftsmanship handed down through generations. While in Myrsini, the scent of home-cooked meals led by Theresa envelops the air while offering a taste of local flavors such as freshly baked pastries paired with the island’s unique grape syrup. The island’s surprising influx of visitors this past summer showcases the growing interest in Tinos, with people arriving to experience its welcoming environment filled with culture and tradition.
Tinos offers breathtaking natural beauty, with stunning landscapes showcasing valleys that resemble moonscapes and metallic beaches shining in various hues. The island speaks volumes of its historical affluence through over 800 charming chapels that pepper the terraced hillsides. With each visit, Tinos leaves an indelible impression as stories intertwine with tradition, inviting travelers to explore its hidden corners and create lasting memories.
Where to stay in Tinos
Odera
Tinos remains relatively undiscovered compared to neighboring Mykonos, offering an intimate experience absent of overwhelming tourism. Odera, the first luxury accommodation on the island, embodies the spirit of serenity and escape with its 77 beautifully designed rooms and pool suites nestled within untouched hillsides, boasting panoramic views. Enjoy tranquil moments at the on-site spa featuring innovative treatments or watch breathtaking sunrises from the property’s semi-private cove.
Address: Odera Tinos, Vourni beach, Tinos, 842 00, Greece
Pnoēs Tinos
For design enthusiasts, Pnoēs Tinos in Lagkades provides three sumptuous villas that harmoniously blend modern architecture with the island’s historical essence. Each villa boasts its own private pool, showcasing local craftsmanship while promising an authentic experience amid nature’s grandeur. Savor delightful breakfasts prepared with fresh local ingredients before embarking on culinary adventures at family-run tavernas nearby.
Address: Pnoēs Tinos, Lagkades, Agios Fokas, Tinos, 84200, Cyclades, Greece
Xinara House
Groups seeking a connection to Tinos’ history should consider the charming Xinara House, a beautifully restored bishop’s residence from the 1800s. This sustainable property, adorned with locally-sourced materials, accommodates 8 to 10 guests while its surrounding gardens boast a thriving vineyard and fruit trees. Enjoy eco-friendly living and organic produce while soaking up the island’s timeless ambiance.
Address: Xinara House, The Street Tinos Island Cyclades, Xinara 824 00, Greece
The best restaurants in Tinos
Svoura Taverna
Discover the hidden gem of Svoura Taverna in Komi, where freshly baked bread and generous servings of local delicacies define the dining experience. Enjoy a friendly atmosphere while sharing delicious appetizers like spicy cheese and savory fava before indulging in traditional grilled meats and homemade desserts.
Address: πλατεια &kώμης, Tínos, Greece
Choreftra Taverna
A true culinary paradise awaits at Choreftra Taverna in Kampos village, providing an enchanting evening experience under striking bougainvillaea. The menu features local dishes bursting with flavor, creating an unforgettable experience as you savor the ambiance of Greek hospitality.
Address: Αγιοι, Egina 180 10, Greece
Thelassaki
Gaze upon the stunning horizon while dining at Thelassaki, a picturesque waterfront restaurant showcasing the best of Tinos cuisine. With creative seasonal recipes highlighting fresh local ingredients, enjoy dining in an unpretentious atmosphere with waves lapping at your feet as you savor exceptional dishes.
Address: Ysternia Bay, Tinos 842 01, Greece
Things to do in Tinos
Visit Volax village
Experience the charm of Volax, known for its unique wall art and only 50 residents. As you wander its cobbled streets, absorb the uplifting messages of handwritten poems to immerse yourself in the warmth and simplicity of Tinos life.
Shop for keepsakes in Pyrgos
Explore the picturesque streets of Pyrgos, dotted with vibrant architecture and unique marble buildings. Discover boutiques selling hand-crafted jewelry and local products, and savor traditional treats in cozy tavernas while planning your sunset viewing from stunning Kardiani village.
Head to Kolibithra beach
For a perfect beach day, visit Kolibithra Beach where sandy coves offer a space to unwind and soak up the sun. With fewer crowds and a more laid-back atmosphere, enjoy the simple pleasures of beach life while absorbing breathtaking views of Tinos’ landscape.
