“What if a wormhole back to New York in 1979 opened up, in the place you’d least expect to find it?” This is the concept behind Detour Discotheque, a series of music events thrown in the most far-flung corners of the world, which leads me to the Swiss Alps on a Thursday afternoon with a suitcase packed with puffa jackets, walking boots, glitter, and 70s-inspired jumpsuits.
As I step off the plane from London to Zurich, I marvel at the ease of my trip so far; however, I soon realize the “detour” in “Detour Discotheque,” with the ensuing journey involving trains, a car journey, and two separate cable cars.
The train trundles away from the city, and with each extra mile, the natural surroundings add an exponential “wow” factor. Rolling hills make way for towering, snow-capped mountains. As we round the final stretch of railway, the hilly giants part to reveal a glistening lake dotted with boats while paragliders swoop, dip, and dive above. It’s easy to see why this is known as the adventure capital of Europe – a year-round playground that attracts base-jumping thrill seekers, climbers, cyclists, skiers, ramblers, and more.
After arriving in Lauterbrunnen, the screen-saver-esque valley village at the foot of our final destination, I board the cable car to Mürren. I’m blown away by the sheer scale of the mountain we’re gliding up, as the cars, people, and houses below gradually turn into tiny specs in the distance. This 13th-century Alpine village rose to popularity when Sir Arnold Lunn introduced the first-ever Alpine slalom race here in 1922. It’s easy to see why Mürren is nicknamed “Dorf auf der Mauer” (the village on the wall). Still, I wonder, how did the founder of Detour Disco, Jonny Ensall, choose this remote outpost for a festival?
I caught up with Jonny to learn how this unique event first came about: “I’d always DJ-ed and run disco nights in London. Like most people who love disco, I was fascinated by this legendary era in New York history in the late ’70s and early ’80s, when clubs like The Loft, Paradise Garage, and Studio 54 were at their peak.” While travelling for work, Jonny found what he considered the perfect inaugural Detour location – an unassuming village hall in the Westfjords of Iceland. “I chose Iceland for the sheer impossibility of doing it there; Scotland for the response from the locals; and now Switzerland for the natural beauty. They’ve all been perfect in their own ways.”
Despite initial uncertainties about whether anyone would attend the Iceland debut, word quickly spread, and the party sold out. “I guess the idea just resonated, especially as people were emerging from lockdown. They wanted to explore the world again and feel that sense of togetherness and community.”
It’s day one of Detour’s Swiss iteration, and I’m running late to catch the last cable car to the first venue of the weekend, an open-air platform at the next highest peak, Birg. Fortunately, I make it in time, joining a group of other party-goers adorning platform boots, glitter, and sequins. There’s something incredibly special about being united with strangers, bound together by our shared love of music, travel, and adventure. As Jonny attests, it creates a real community.
I started day one expecting a mere warm-up for the main event on Saturday, but that thought quickly dissipated as I stepped outside into the crisp mountain air. I was greeted by billowing smoke, flashing lights, a pounding sound system, and, of course, the glittering disco ball suspended above the action. The party kicked off with returning Detour DJ, Norsicaa, followed by the influential Erol Alkan, who played the whole set in just a t-shirt, seemingly undeterred by the chill of the mountain air.
We partied until the sun dipped below the peaks, 360-degree views occasionally cloaked in cloud, thankful for fellow dancers’ body warmth as the cold began to seep in. The music was interspersed with cheers from the crowd and the occasional snap of a decorative paper fan. Jonny himself closed the set, the party’s last man standing, continuing without missing a beat until the sound systems were silenced, and we crammed into the final cable car down the mountain. As I nestled into bed at the cozy Drei Berge Hotel, I found myself wondering how the next day could possibly top this one.
Awake and refreshed after a hearty breakfast of fresh fruit, peach juice, cheese, and meats, I lounged in a deck chair on the suntrap terrace of the Drei Berge, soaking up the dramatic surroundings. I gazed up at the top of the mountain where the party would commence later in the day, at the highest accessible peak of Schilthorn, 2,970m above sea level. The venue, Piz Gloria, is a circular revolving restaurant remembered for its iconic role in the 1963 James Bond film, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Positioned atop the Schilthorn peak with breathtaking views of the Swiss skyline, including the famed Jungfrau, Eiger, and Mönch, Piz Gloria emanates the vibe of an evil mastermind lair, blending futuristic and retro design.
As we board the cable car from Mürren, an electric sense of anticipation fills the air. Cramped into the car, music escapes from one attendee’s Bluetooth speaker, sparking laughter and dance, making the cable car sway as it ascends the mountain. We arrive and head straight outside onto the large viewing platform to capture the candy-floss pink skies at sunset, the snowy peaks creating a striking display that photographs could never fully capture. Thanks to its wrap-around glass walls, we easily peer into the party from outside, watching silhouettes illuminated beneath fuchsia lighting, all while thankfully avoiding the revolving floor that would typically be present. As the sun sets and the biting cold begins to settle in, we venture inside the venue, enveloped by warm air and the pulsating bass resonating beneath our feet.
The party carried on into the early hours of the morning. A couple adorned in fringed attire dazzled the crowd, while my attempt at limboing under a low-hanging feather boa led to hilarity. As the 3am crowd meandered back down the mountain, the camaraderie felt unprecedented. “What’s next for Detour?” I inquired of Jonny. “The idea is to just keep going, creating an otherworldly event like nothing else on the planet. But right now, we all just need a rest!” I tried to tease out hints of the next Detour location, but he kept it under wraps. With countless possible destinations whirling in my mind on the journey home, one thing is for certain: Detour Disco 2025 promises to be an unforgettable celebration.
