Explore Bodø, Norway
Two white-tailed eagles circle overhead as the rib pilot kills the power and we idle on shimmering waters, necks craning skywards as the sun bounces off the snow-capped peaks and islands that line the Bodø archipelago in northern Norway. The vivid afternoon sun has cast everything in high definition, making it hard to imagine that just a couple of months ago the peak of midwinter afforded just one hour of sunlight a day. “We have the same amount of sun each year in Bodø as Sydney or Benidorm,” says the pilot as we bid farewell to our avian friends and pick up speed again. “It’s just that here, it’s distributed differently.”
Spring Arrives in Bodø
It’s early March in Bodø and, situated just north of the Arctic Circle, this diminutive city of 50,000 people has just emerged from winter, with spring nudging sunset to a respectable 6pm. Still a little way off from a month-long period of midnight sun, when nights are bathed in golden light as the sun lingers above the horizon, I’m blessed with clear skies for an outing to Saltstraumen – the world’s strongest tidal current.
Exploring Saltstraumen
Twice a day, as the tide surges in and out between Saltfjorden and Skjerstad Fjord, it forces 400 million cubic metres through a narrow strait, with the resulting maelstrom a star local attraction that can reach up to 20 knots. With the shore lined with anglers benefitting from fish flung upwards by the current, the pilot deftly negotiates his way through fast-emerging whirlpools as choppy seas dance to vast underwater forces – a mesmerizing spectacle that embodies the extremes of nature that characterise this corner of the world.
The Transformation of Bodø
It’s my second trip to this stunning region, the first being a quick stop en route to the picture-perfect Lofoten islands. This time, however, once freed from my oilskins, I’m here to become better acquainted with a city in the midst of an exciting metamorphosis. While Bodø has always been blessed with breathtaking landscapes, with nine national parks equipping its population with ample hiking trails, ski runs, and secluded islands, recent years have transformed the city.
Bodø’s Post-War Resilience
Having been largely flattened by the Luftwaffe during World War II, Bodø’s rationalist post-war rebuild is visible in the boxy buildings that line the shores and a skyline punctuated by the angular 1950s cathedral. Yet a decade ago, the city’s identity took a tilt with the completion of the stark white Stormen concert hall and library on the waterfront, replacing a rundown car park with two beautiful, big-hitting cultural institutions in the heart of the city. This development coincided with the Norwegian Air Force’s decision to relocate its entire fighter jet fleet, setting in motion a shift in identity recently recognised by its designation this year as a European Capital of Culture.
Creativity Flourishes in Bodø
“This place definitely feels like it’s going up rather than backwards,” says Dan Mariner at Noua, a photography gallery and community space on Storgata that he co-founded with his partner Marianne Bjørnmyr in 2016. Set in a former grocery store, it’s become a beacon for Bodø’s nascent creative community that has started to gather pace. Mariner explains that Noua shines a light on contemporary approaches, hoping to be less elitist and more accessible.
Cultural Events and Community Engagement
Integral to Bodø’s capital of culture celebrations has been the inclusion of the traditionally nomadic Sami people, who have historically faced oppression. The compelling performances inspired by Indigenous struggles meld projections of reindeer overshadowed by towering wind turbines with spoken word and traditional joik throat singing. This rich tapestry of culture adds an extra resonance to a city already with plenty to offer.
Where to Stay in Bodø
Wood Hotel
A statement addition to Bodø’s currently limited hotel lineup, Wood Hotel offers spectacular views of mountains and fjords, with an expansive dining room featuring a locavore ethos.
Manshausen
This hard-to-reach island offers luxurious sea cabins, promising a secluded sanctuary overlooking the Grøtøy strait, ideal for outdoor enthusiasts.
Radisson Blu
Located on Bodø’s rejuvenated waterfront, Radisson Blu offers both mountain and sea views, making it a convenient choice for travelers seeking comfort and accessibility.
Where to Eat in Bodø
Bryggerikaia
This stylish restaurant in a former brewery serves a maritime menu in a cozy atmosphere, making it a local favorite for delicious seafood dishes.
Bjørk
Located above a shopping center, this unique restaurant features an Italian-inspired menu that includes wood-fired pizzas and local specialties.
Ohma
Emphasizing fresh fish with a Far Eastern twist, Ohma offers an exciting dining experience with an array of sushi and dim sum options.
Where to Play in Bodø
Noua
This photography gallery and social space plays an essential role in Bodø’s cultural renaissance, hosting events and exhibitions that showcase international artists.
Saltstraumen
Serving as a spectacular region to explore, Saltstraumen is known for fast-forming whirlpools and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountain ranges.
Sauna Experience
Norway’s sauna culture is blossoming, with architecturally striking options available for an authentic experience overlooking the water, perfect for relaxation.
