Exploring Kosovo’s Cultural Heritage and Cuisine

Just 25 years after the war that established it, the tiny nation gives a masterclass in preserving culture – one that was almost lost forever.

30 March 2024

Unlike the sky-scraping peaks of the Accursed Mountains and the sprawling walls of Prizren Fortress, Kosovo’s national museum is comically small. It devotes one floor to Illyrian and Roman-era archaeological finds; then upstairs, past the world’s largest staple mosaic (depicting Mother Teresa), it jumps ahead to 1999. Mementos of the young nation sparsely populate the second floor – including the declaration of independence and sheet music from the contest to create the national anthem. The country’s devotion to US politicians who helped end the war is visible in some odd items, like the unremarkable Columbia rain jacket of former US Ambassador William Walker. The aftermath of Yugoslavia’s breakup saw Kosovo’s ethnic Albanian population subjected to brutal violence by Serbian forces. However, a NATO bombing campaign led by the United States in 1999 paved the way for independence.

Twenty-five years later, as Kosovo’s nationhood remains fragile and Serbia has not recognized it as an independent state, travelers have the unique privilege of helping to preserve the millennia-old culture that Kosovars almost lost. Kosovo deserves recognition for its cascading mountain waterfalls, warm heritage, snaking bazaars, and stunning sunsets over mosque-studded cities. These are just a few highlights of a trip filled with cultural and outdoor adventures.

More than 90 percent of Kosovars are ethnically Albanian, the majority being Muslim. This becomes evident when looking out from the fortress above the city of Prizren, over a skyline dotted with approximately 40 minarets. On a recent visit, the brief 15-minute uphill walk from the city center led to a tangle of 1,000-year-old stone walls overlooking the city, where the sinking sun illuminated the snow-capped Sharr Mountains in shades of orange. Prizren, home to 170,000 people, is regarded as the country’s cultural hub, with picturesque bridges spanning the eponymous river and a labyrinth of cobblestone paths radiating from the central plaza.

Down an alley, the Kukli Mehmet Bey Mosque and the Halveti Tekke, a 350-year-old center for Sufi dervish ceremonies, sit across from an 18th-century nobleman’s house featuring a raised Ottoman living room. While admiring the elegant, centuries-old buildings from the fountain courtyard, I was invited in for tea by a local man who shared stories and photos of his family, who had lived there for generations. This experience symbolizes the masterclass in hospitality that Kosovo offers—an environment where even brief interactions blossom into hearty welcomes and meaningful conversations, transcending language barriers.

This lesson continued in Gjakova. The town’s Old Bazaar is a kilometer-long, pedestrian-friendly street lined with Ottoman-style wooden storefronts beneath tiled roofs. The Grand Bazaar, once the largest in southeastern Europe, dates back to at least the 16th century but was heavily damaged during the war. The remaining buildings symbolize the resilience of a culture that refuses to be crushed. In this historical center of tailors, silk workers, and tanners, I explored one of the few remaining workshops. Woodworker Ruzhdi Qarri’s brightly painted cradles sparked a longing for a third child, just to have a reason to buy one. Despite our language barrier, Qarri shared his craftsmanship and international accolades, fostering a deeper understanding of the importance of rebuilding places like these.

A smaller Ottoman bazaar flows through Peja, with the jagged peaks of the Accursed Mountains providing a dramatic backdrop. These peaks, along with nearby Rugova Canyon, one of Europe’s longest and deepest gorges, position the town at the forefront of Kosovo’s burgeoning adventure travel industry. From Peja, outfitters guide visitors through rock climbing, spelunking, and various hiking routes amidst lush, green mountains and sprawling landscapes. Multi-day trips often lead across borders into neighboring countries along popular hiking trails such as the Peaks of the Balkans, Via Dinarica, and Trans-Dinarica. Along the way, guesthouses serve hearty homemade meals featuring the region’s renowned cheeses.

With my children insisting on keeping my explorations grounded, my adventure led me to the Saturday market in Peja, where I sampled traditional cheeses sold in a quaint square just west of Muharrem Pasha Street. The butter and cheese-making traditions practiced in small villages here stretch back over a millennium. After tasting a creamy fusion of feta and stracciatella, I decided to purchase more than just a sample, as the vendor graciously refused to charge me for a modest portion.

In Kosovo’s capital, Prishtina, I rewarded my culinary adventures with a cup of gelato while strolling down Bulevardi Nënë Tereza. This broad pedestrian avenue is lined with stalls and cafes, alive with families, couples, and friends enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. The street concludes at Bulevardi Xhorxh Bush, among many named after pivotal American leaders from the war era. Just around the corner is the Newborn Monument, a monumental sculpture dedicated to Kosovo’s hard-fought independence, which transforms annually, celebrating the diverse skylines of countries that Kosovars can now visit freely.

Where to Eat in Kosovo

Hani I Vjeter, Prizren

The traditional stone house and colorful uniforms of the servers contribute to an authentic atmosphere, enhanced by their excellent dishes like the layered pancake flija and inviting lamb casserole tavë Prizreni.

Thana Rostiçeri, Prishtina

Much of Kosovo’s culinary tradition shines here, as Chef Florina Skeja beautifully blends local tastes with fine dining. The casual setting allows guests to indulge in seasonal tasting menus that highlight the best of Kosovo’s ingredients, from local brandy to Cornelian cherry desserts.

Burektore Bleta, Peja

Identify this unassuming burek shop by a simple window sign. Renowned for having the best burek in Kosovo, it is always bustling, which may require some patience to get your meal.

Qebaptore Buqja, Peja

This lively kebab shop is known for its numerous meat offerings ranging from patties to sausages, each served with fluffy, freshly baked bread and colorful salads, encapsulating quick yet hearty dining.

Where to Stay in Kosovo

Hotel Gracanica

This attractive hotel in a quiet suburb of Prishtina features a sparkling pool and showcases cross-cultural camaraderie with a diverse staff. The blend of traditional textiles and minimalist design creates a welcoming atmosphere, with local crafts available for purchase in the gift shop.

Ujevara e Drinit Resort

This modern retreat outside Peja offers breathtaking views of the nearby White Drin Waterfall. Walking paths lead directly from the restaurant, where diners can enjoy local trout alongside polished service and memorable dining experiences.