“I’ve travelled on more than 200 sleeper trains, and this is the first time I’ve ever slept through the night.”
28 March 2024
Ten minutes before departure, the Nightjet from Hamburg to Vienna was nowhere to be seen. Passengers paced around, glancing at the overhead screens. A school group sat on sports bags, each individual yawning or scrolling TikTok, while a young family watched a film on a laptop propped up on a buggy. Just as unease set in, an announcement galvanized our group into action, setting off a stampede up the escalators and across to platform 12, where a sleek service was gliding into position.
I was here to test out the new fleet of Nightjet trains, which launched in December 2023. Owned by Austria’s state operator, ÖBB, the 33 trains have been built by Siemens to enhance the experience for nocturnal travelers. ÖBB has played a significant role in the resurgence of night trains across Europe, currently operating 20 routes with its regular rolling stock. The previous stock, tired and in need of an upgrade, required improvements to appeal to new passengers looking to reduce their carbon footprint. Since the first service between Hamburg and Vienna began, a second one launched last week between Vienna and Bregenz, with a third expected to operate in Rome in the autumn.
With only seven carriages in total, it was easy to spot the numbers as my carriage rolled past, and I was on board, greeted by an attendant in less than a minute. Handing over a magnetic key card to unlock the door, she briefly explained the digital lights, temperature setting, and the call button. She asked me to select up to six items from the breakfast menu and to leave the slip outside. Then she was gone. From then on, I saw no one new until morning. For passengers looking to chat with other travelers and swap stories, this is not the carriage to choose—the mixed couchettes or regular seating would be a better fit.
By the time I hung up my coat and explored the en-suite bathroom, we were on the move, Hamburg’s graffiti gliding past the window. It was just after 8pm, with the train due into Vienna at 9:17am, so there was no need to dread a bleary-eyed start. My ticket provided a comfort-plus compartment, which contained pre-made bunk beds with fixed steps, a table, and a cozy seating area from where I could watch the lights of the suburbs flit by. (The only difference between mine and the comfort compartment was extra space.)
A quiet knock announced the return of the attendant with a small bottle of Söhnlein sekt, reminiscent of Lambrini. It was a relief not to have to sway up the carriage to clean my teeth or use the loo (although how much cleaning had occurred was questionable, owing to the blond hair in the drain and a leftover bottle of Head & Shoulders in the shower).
Nightjet trains serve a clear purpose: they take passengers from one city to the next with minimal fuss and maximum privacy. Due to the departure times, there are no dining cars on board and no plans to introduce them; however, wraps, sandwiches, and microwaved meals, including spaghetti bolognese, cheesy tagliatelle, and vegetarian chili, are all available for under €10. For late-night snackers, popcorn, Pringles, peanuts, and Haribo are perfect companions for a can of Stiegl as the train rumbles through the night.
Searching for human life, I looked up and down the corridor. Nothing but the hum of the train echoed in my ears. Ideal for business passengers with early-morning meetings, this carriage was free from the usual background mix of voices, phones, and films. Here, you hop aboard, close the door, and don’t emerge until morning. Rummaging through the complimentary paper bag of slippers, flannel, eye mask, ear plugs (and tiny chocolate wafer), I slotted my phone into the wireless charging pouch, popped in the ear plugs, and snuggled under the duvet, taking the advice of the pillow that read: “Dream now. Enjoy tomorrow.”
Despite having travelled on more than 200 sleeper trains, I’m still a light sleeper. However, for the first time in months, I slept undisturbed until 7am, a record stretch of more than eight hours without being jolted awake or disturbed by voices in the corridor. Curious about our location, I nudged up the blind to find the train drawing out of Passau, just turning at the confluence of the Danube, the Ilz, and the Inn rivers, known as the Dreiflüssseeck. Austria to my left and Germany to my right; I watched the sun warm the skies through the forests, with deer scattered around the foreground. As the mists lifted off the water, the day came into its own. During breakfast, consisting of self-made ham and cheese sandwiches, I absorbed the details of villages and towns rolling by—curtains opening, horses being fed, and children arriving at nursery.
For all my initial doubts, the shower was hot and powerful with shower gel in a dispenser, and I emerged from the train exactly as Nightjet intends—refreshed and ready for the day. For €3.50 (cash only), I left my bags at Vienna Hauptbahnhof and set off on foot to the Belvedere Palace to view some Klimt and a bit of Egon Schiele before lunch at the nearby Edelgreisslerei Opocensky, a deli with a restaurant attached. Toasty and welcoming, they feature a daily menu with hearty plates of spring vegetable strudel, pork knuckle, and dumplings—the perfect spot to load up on cheese, wine, and slabs of terrine for an onward journey.
