Experience Twenty Eight: Chester’s Top New Restaurant

For Condé Nast Traveller’s first-ever UK’s Top New Restaurant Awards, the readers’ vote went to a small farm-to-fork restaurant in the historic northern town of Chester.

19 March 2024

Warm Atmosphere and Unique Dishes

It’s a shivery evening in March outside, but inside Twenty Eight, there’s an expansive hug of feel-good Friday tunes on the playlist—Bowie, a little Johnny Cash, and an orange-blossom Old Fashioned being stirred. The plates begin to land, each prepared with precision, bringing vibrant colors to the table. Highlights include:

• A squad of anchovies doused in a nutty red salsa macha.
• Mushroom croquettes topped in parmesan, perfect for dipping in walnut ketchup.
• A unique dish of Kentucky fried artichokes—crispy Jerusalem artichoke nuggets that are delightfully moreish.

Local Roots and Seasonal Produce

Growing up 40 miles away in south Manchester, Chester holds nostalgic memories of childhood visits, like Chester Zoo and the Roman amphitheatre. Traditionally known for its pubs and classic fine dining, Chester is expanding its culinary scene with innovative venues like Twenty Eight. Chef Jay Tanner notes that local excitement for food is on the rise, with restaurants pushing Chester’s culinary boundaries.

Twenty Eight’s Concept

Open since August 2023, Twenty Eight focuses on ‘British tapas fresh from the field,’ sourcing produce from Field 28, a family-run, no-dig farm in Daresbury. Among the seasonal offerings are:

• Karavel onions
• Baby turnips
• Purple sprouting broccoli
• Gilt-head bream, seared over woodfire with harissa butter.

Jay emphasizes their commitment to offering accessible prices while minimizing food waste by sharing ingredients with their neighboring restaurant.

Exceptional Dining Experience

More dishes keep arriving, showcasing the restaurant’s creative flair. For example:

• Gravlax trout cured in gin and beetroot juice, accompanied by chargrilled orange.
• Barbecued ox heart, marinated for 24 hours, served with hash browns and chimichurri.
• Sticky beef feather blade accompanied by a vibrant parsley sauce.
• A nostalgia-inducing custard tart with rhubarb compote.

What Sets Chester Apart

According to Chris Laidler, owner of nearby Covino, Chester is proving to be a formidable culinary destination, drawing inspiration from nearby farms like Field 28. The city’s food scene is thriving and continues to attract attention for its ingenuity and freshness.

Conclusion

Twenty Eight exemplifies Chester’s evolving gastronomic landscape, combining seasonal ingredients with innovative cooking methods to create a memorable dining experience. The restaurant not only seeks to delight your palate but also aims to celebrate local produce, making it a noteworthy addition to Chester’s vibrant food culture.