All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.
After the ski day ends, there’s a distinctive quality to the silence at Hotel Bellevue des Alpes. After the tourists have explored the Jungfraujoch station, framed between the majestic Jungfrau and Mönch summits, the only life left up here consists of the odd piste-bashing machine and the guests of the Bellevue, known for its iconic green-shuttered façade. In the wallpapered lobby, over a drink, the calm is interrupted only by the fire crackling, the relentless ticking of a mahogany mantel clock, and the occasional creak of the staircase—a sound steeped in history.
When dinnertime arrives in the lantern-lit wood-paneled restaurant, phones are discouraged as waiters in white jackets serve a set menu featuring dishes like beetroot salad with smoked eel and slow-cooked pork belly. Patrons include a man exuding the charm of a neorealist film director, a rosy-cheeked Dutch-Englishman testing his luck in a nearby ski race, and a stylish couple returning to their beloved Bellevue. Outside, the famed silhouettes of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau fade into the night.
The hotel is run by its initially austere owners, Andreas and Silvia von Almen, who cultivate a magical family legacy despite the Eiger glacier shrinking over the years. Andreas recalls the weight of history and the shared responsibility of preserving the Bellevue des Alpes, which has witnessed the evolution from a humble mountain inn to a revered destination.
I discover similar sentiments during glorious March days in the Jungfrau region. The quaint town of Wengen, along with the car-free Mürren perched dramatically on a cliff edge, seems to harbor its own storied past. The establishment of mountain railways in the late 19th and early 20th centuries contributed greatly, particularly the line to Jungfraujoch station, which was completed in 1912.
While St. Moritz is often credited with the invention of winter tourism, ski racing has its roots in Mürren since 1922, thanks to Englishman Arnold Lunn. He challenged the norms of skiing, emphasizing speed over flair, and founded notable racing clubs which continue to thrive today.
Charming Heritage of Wengen
This enchanting area embodies a simpler time, reminiscent of a Wes Anderson film, with ornately balconied hotels in a historical design. These family-run establishments prioritize warmth and tradition, providing a unique experience for every visitor.
A prime example is Wengen’s Hotel Falken, where I find a charming atmosphere that echoes time past. Owned by the same family since 1895, it exudes nostalgia with its delightful decor and personalized service. The commitment to preserving the essence of this hotel shines through, with guests feeling as if they are returning to their living room each year.
Many visitors return to this serene locale for its charm and picturesque scenery. Kleine Scheidegg rivals the best of the Alps, presenting a breathtaking backdrop for leisurely strolls or sipping hot cocoa at quaint cafes. The local cuisine reflects the region’s character, with family-owned restaurants serving delectable dishes in cozy environments.
The Allure of Train Travel
Traveling on punctual mountain trains enhances the experience, delivering guests to quaint stations surrounded by the stunning Alpine landscape. One of the tiniest and most picturesque stations is Wengernalp, where visitors can enjoy delightful culinary offerings before heading down to Wengen.
Patricia, the owner’s wife at a nearby hotel, describes her instant affinity for the area, emphasizing the tranquility that permeates every corner of this enchanting destination. With every window opening to breathtaking views, it’s a place where nature and hospitality create an unforgettable experience.
Where to Stay in Jungfrau
Hotel Bellevue des Alpes, Kleine Scheidegg
A mountain inn since 1840, this iconic hotel offers a classic ambience with its wooden dining rooms and traditional decor. It stands proudly alone among the stunning landscapes surrounding it, providing an unparalleled escape from the modern world.
Price: Doubles from about £450, including a four-course dinner.
Hotel Jungfrau Wengernalp, Wengernalp
Cozier and more chalet-like, the Wengernalp boasts breathtaking views of the Lauterbrunnen valley and a Michelin-recommended restaurant cherished by locals for its exquisite desserts.
Price: Doubles from about £450.
Hotel Falken, Wengen
This charming hotel, built in 1895, is a delightful escape with its vintage decor and familial warmth, where every detail resonates with history.
Price: Doubles from about £244.
Hotel Regina, Wengen
Offering handcrafted luxury rooms and a grand atmosphere, the Regina Wengen blends tradition and contemporary comforts for a delightful experience.
Price: Doubles from about £360.
Hotel Regina, Mürren
A member of Swiss Historic Hotels, it combines classic architecture with a vibrant cultural scene, hosting regular musical events and exhibitions.
Price: Doubles from about £100.
