Experience Sifnos, Greece – A Culinary and Scenic Journey

On most Greek islands, what captivates you first is the light, bouncing off burnished rocks or painting the horizon a fuzzy peach. On the wildly beautiful island of Sifnos in the Cyclades, it’s the aroma of orange-and-anise biscuits drifting down whitewashed lanes; pockets of sage and oregano in wind-chiseled valleys; and the brine blasts as sea urchins are pried open, orange roe scooped up with salty fingers.

In the summer, upon stepping off the ferry at Kamares, the island’s unassuming little port, one cannot ignore the unmistakable perfume of sizzling calamari and suntan oil. If it’s early afternoon, you might stroll along the hot boardwalk to the sandy beach of Agia Marina and dive straight into the sea. The octopus bruschetta and aubergine chips at the Isalos beach bar taste even better with sand between your toes. As a lilac haze settles over the bay, a cucumber margarita is the perfect toast to your return to the island.

A Culinary Delight

The first time I visited Sifnos was over 25 years ago on a whirlwind trip with friends from various countries. We rented rooms in the cliff-top village of Kastro from a quirky local. While our accommodations may have been basic, the sunrises over the Church of Seven Martyrs were sensational, a chapel perched on an outcrop of rock. The local bar, Kavos Sunrise, was run by a charismatic individual known for his affinity for Cuba. Here, we would drink rum-and-cokes until dawn and enjoy dandelion-and-feta pies from the bakery before heading to bed.

Although the bakery has vanished, Kavos Sunrise is still thriving. The pile of empty Havana Club bottles continues to grow, while a new addition, Loggia, a beautifully understated wine bar, has emerged nearby. You can savor biodynamic wines and Cycladic cheeses while listening to soothing vinyl records. Kastro village remains a timeless space that resists change.

The Charm of Sifnos

The island itself hasn’t changed much. It retains its raw elemental appeal and tranquil atmosphere. More cars and villas may dot the landscape, and a handful of upscale restaurants and hotels have emerged. These days, one might choose to stay at the elegant Verina Astra, featuring calming suites with breathtaking views of the blue sea and a brilliant-white village cascading over a distant hilltop. The hotel is managed by a couple who have a deep love for Sifnos, creating a welcoming atmosphere.

With such stunning views, it’s easy to embrace the slow rhythm of island life, lulled by the buzz of cicadas. The hotel is merely a five-minute drive from Artemonas, the prettiest village on Sifnos. The optimal time to visit is dusk, when cheerful children race through alleys, grandmothers gossip on steps adorned with geraniums, and locals forage for capers. Evenings often begin with a carafe of tsipouro and a meze platter at Mosaico, a family-run ouzeri where musicians occasionally play.

A Sweet Stop

No visit is complete without stopping at Theodorou’s Sweet Shop, renowned for nougat wafers, bergamot sugar paste, and amygdalota. Since 1933, this family-run establishment has been delighting visitors with treats prepared in copper pots over a wood fire. If you visit in the morning, you’ll witness staff expertly crimping delicious bourekia, a delectable pastry filled with ground almonds, cloves, cinnamon, and honey.

The Culinary Legacy

Sifnos owes much of its culinary reputation to Nicholas Tselementes, a local chef who authored Greece’s first cookbook in 1910. Although he embraced the more elaborate dishes learned abroad, traditional Sifniot cooking remains rooted in simple, seasonal ingredients. The island’s distinctive terracotta casserole dishes have been utilized for centuries, showcasing culinary traditions passed down through generations.

Dining Recommendations

Omega3

At Platis Gialos, Omega3 offers a menu featuring fresh, locally sourced seafood. The Sifnian chef has created a mix of Greek and international dishes, often incorporating unique flavors.

Cantina

Cantina serves a zero-waste, hyper-local menu that evolves based on available produce. Nestled on the cliffs, the setting enhances the exceptional dining experience.

Bostani Bar and Restaurant

Bostani, located at Verina Astra, offers stunning views of the ocean and a menu showcasing modern Greek cuisine made with fresh herbs from the hotel garden.

Loggia Wine Bar

Loggia pairs great Greek wine with delicious cheese and a relaxing ambiance, making it an ideal spot to enjoy the local offerings.

Conclusion

Whether savoring culinary delights or wandering picturesque villages, a trip to Sifnos is sure to create unforgettable memories. The island’s charm lies not only in its flavors but also in its welcoming spirit, making it a must-visit destination in Greece.