Exploring Morocco’s Jewish Heritage in the Atlas Mountains

On a trip to Morocco’s Atlas Mountains to trace his Jewish heritage, Saki Knafo unveils details of the past while planting new seeds for the future.

**Date:** 22 April 2023

One of the early stories I remember is about my father recounting our family origins. While sitting on our couch in Brooklyn, my dad told me about our “great-great-great-great” grandfather, who lived in the Anti-Atlas mountains of Morocco. One day, all of the Jewish men in his village faced a harsh decision: convert or face death. Those who didn’t comply, including our forefather, Maklouf, suffered a tragic fate. However, his wife, whose name remains unknown, fled with her baby after the atrocities.

Through considerable hardship across the mountains to the coast, she managed to reach her hometown, Essaouira, a port city at significant crossroads.

As time went on, this harrowing tale was passed down through generations, transforming into family lore. My father, a conceptual artist who had spent some time in New York, often reminisced about these connections to our Jewish heritage.

In May of last year, I journeyed to Oufrane Atlas Saghir, the village that harbored my ancestors’ tales, accompanied by my father’s cousin Régine. At age 87, she still travels alone; her vibrant spirit remained infectious through our long drive, marveling at the arid landscape.

Upon reaching our destination, we encountered a guardian of a local Jewish cemetery. He brought us to a location where the stones unveiled their Hebrew carvings, yet we found no mention of our family name, Knafo.

Currently, a few thousand Jews reside within Morocco, a stark contrast to the quarter of a million during the 1940s. Jewish communities had significantly contributed to Moroccan arts, crafts, and culture but nearly vanished following Morocco’s independence from France in 1956.

Seeking understanding, I spoke to various locals throughout my journey, many recalling affectionately the harmonious coexistence between Jews and Muslims before the shift transpired. Yet, this narrative often contrasted with darker stories of our past, highlighting the complexity of our shared history.

Where to go along Morocco’s Central Coast

Morocco’s central coast offers vibrant cities and towns that are a delight for travelers. Expect a brilliant blend of culture, cuisine, and picturesque landscapes.

Taroudant

Just an hour and a half inland from Agadir, Taroudant serves as a gateway to Morocco’s majestic High Atlas mountains. Within its monumental walls, travelers can explore souks full of vibrant life, healers, and craftspeople.

Taghazout and Imsouane

Continue along the turmeric-coloured coast to find Taghazout and Imsouane, two towns renowned for their surf spots and stunning seaside views.

Essaouira

The storied port city of Essaouira is characterized by its vibrant blue tones, historic fortifications, and rich cultural heritage. This magical town perfectly encapsulates the historical narrative of Morocco’s coastal legacy.

Whether seeking connections to past generations or exploring the modern allure of Morocco, the journey through the Atlas Mountains provides a tapestry of cultural insights and personal reflection.