In July, the Spanish government declared that short to medium-distance train journeys would be free from Thursday 1 September 2022 until Saturday 31 December 2022 – an initiative focused on alleviating financial pressures on commuters. Although this initiative was designed primarily for locals, tourists can still benefit from other offers.
One option available is a 50 per cent discount on Spain’s high speed/long distance services, such as the Ave and Alvia. A 10-journey pass valued at €735 is reduced to €367.50 (about £315), which includes free journeys on various cities’ metro networks. This allows you to explore often-overlooked corners of major hubs loved by locals. Dividing this total by the 10 journeys you’re allowed works out to around €36 per journey, or approximately £31 – an attractive deal for any traveler.
With this pass in hand and 10 days to explore, I planned a route from Bilbao, located in the northern Basque region, to Malaga, at the southern tip of Andalucía. The RENFE app, available in English, made booking seamless; you simply enter your desired stations, view options, select preferences, and receive a QR code to scan at the station.
Day 1
London Gatwick to Bilbao with Vueling
Upon arriving in Bilbao on a rainy early September day, I hailed a taxi from the shuttle bus stop to my hotel, NYX Bilbao. Despite my driver’s unfamiliarity with the government initiative, I managed to communicate effectively, and soon I was at my destination. My hotel offered stunning views overlooking the Belle Époque-era Bilbao Concordia station, with the larger Abando station located just behind it.
Day 2
Bilbao to Miranda de Ebro on an Alvia train (included in the pass)
Miranda de Ebro to Vitoria Gasteiz on a Media Distancia train (€13 return)
The following day, I explored the twisting alleyways of Bilbao’s old town, eventually arriving at the Guggenheim Bilbao – a pivotal force in the city’s rejuvenation since its opening in 1997. Arriving at the train station, I marveled at the giant stained-glass window depicting the region’s workers. While Media Distancia trains aren’t included in the pass, the small fee of €13 was well worth it to explore the picturesque market city of Vitoria Gasteiz – the region’s capital, where a northern sensibility beautifully blends with Mediterranean charm.
Day 3
Miranda de Ebro to Valladolid on an Alvia train (included in pass)
After visiting the Basque contemporary art museum Artium, I hopped back on the train, finally reaching Valladolid. This vibrant city serves as a popular weekend getaway for Madridians, and my visit coincided with their Saints Day celebration, adding to the lively atmosphere. I enjoyed award-winning tapas at Los Zagales, a place blending casual dining with a fine-dining experience, and was captivated by the energetic musical performances in every plaza.
Day 4
Valladolid to Madrid on an Alvia train (included in the pass)
Madrid to Toledo on a return Media Distancia train (€20)
Toledo, famous for its steel and rich history, had always intrigued me. Though I faced another Media Distancia fee, I opted to walk the half-hour journey to my hotel, the stunning converted palace Eugenia De Montijo. Upon arrival, a spa treatment refreshed me, and I couldn’t help but admire how the Spanish sunlight highlighted the medieval architecture throughout the day.
Day 5-6
Toledo to Madrid on a return Media Distancia train
Cercanías day trip to Guadalajara (included in the pass)
Madrid feels alive, with its captivating mix of vibrant life and history. My hotel concierge suggested I take the Cercanías train to Guadalajara, only an hour away on the C2 line. This quaint town offered a welcome break from the bustle of Madrid, allowing for leisurely exploration of its charming streets.
Day 7-8
Madrid to Córdoba on an Ave train (included in the pass)
Córdoba’s train station, like many in Spain, is somewhat outside the city centre. However, a 10-minute walk led me to Eurostars Palace, an architectural contrast to the old town nearby. Córdoba impressively merges a tourist atmosphere with local culture, featuring must-see attractions like its magnificent mosque and Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos. I discovered delightful local spots, such as Jugo Vinos Vivos and El Rincon De Carmen, both offering authentic culinary experiences.
Day 9-10
Córdoba to Málaga on an Ave train (included in pass)
Cercanías day trip to Benalmádena (included in the pass)
Málaga, once mainly an airport city, has transformed into a sophisticated cultural hub with 42 museums, including one dedicated to the city’s native son, Picasso. With its flourishing arts scene and impressive nightlife, Málaga retains charm amidst its development. Be sure to enjoy a sweet wine aperitivo at Antigua Casa del Guardia and explore nearby Benalmádena, known for its picturesque marina and local feel.
Total: €400.50 (around £350)
Final Thoughts
The train services were reliable, clean, and comfortable: no lengthy pre-arrival times or baggage claims to navigate. Nevertheless, it is notable that facemasks are still required on public transportation, and there are brief security checks at major stations. Understanding the rhythm of the system takes a little practice, but it enriches your travel experience in Spain.
Exploring the country by train allows you to see a more authentic and grounded Spain. You leave with valuable impressions of the regions and an appreciation for the initiative benefitting Spanish citizens for a limited time.
