A Revolution in Devon’s Seafood Scene

7 August 2022

It’s a beauty, no doubt about that – a whole John Dory, six and a half pounds of pure piscine perfection, borne triumphantly to the table. Its freshness is astonishing, having been bought from Brixham market just hours before, with the skin blistered and blackened by the heat of the Josper oven, revealing pristine white flesh below. Forks tremble with anticipation.

Deftly filleted and anointed with olive oil and lemon, the flesh is winsomely sweet, subtle and delicate. This is as fine a fish as you will eat; English seafood at its very best, where sublime local produce meets the most talented cooks. At The Seahorse in Dartmouth, head chef Ben Tonks, son of co-owner Mitch Tonks, spearheads this culinary revolution. “I want to change the way Britain buys fish,” Mitch explains, advocating for fresh, sustainable, and completely traceable seafood – delivered from boat to table in a matter of hours.

The Brixham fishing community embodies this commitment to sustainability. Fisherfolk like Sarah and Darren Ready adhere to traditional methods, crafting biodynamic lobster pots from willow and ensuring that fishing practices protect their marine environment—for example, throwing back juvenile fish.

Brixham Fish Market: A Hub for Sustainable Fishing

Brixham Fish Market is a bustling center for sustainable seafood, where fish is auctioned daily. The auction starts at 6am, and many boats return to port by 7am. Following the auction, about eighty percent of the fish is sent to Europe. During our visit to the Rockfish processing site nearby, boxes filled with live lobster, scallops, and various other seafood types create an idyllic snapshot of the local industry.

“I believe in fewer boats, and more passion,” Mitch states firmly. The local fishermen are dedicated to maintaining an ethical seafood supply, despite issues stemming from larger supertrawlers and foreign fleets fishing in these waters.

Devon Seafood: A Culinary Destination

Top Restaurants in Devon

• Rockfish, Brixham
  Expect well-priced, sustainable seafood. Enjoy proper fish and chips and grilled lobster while watching dayboats motor in and out of the harbour.
• Shoals, Brixham
  A great spot overlooking Brixham Bay, serving simply cooked, fresh fish bought off local boats. Bring your swimmers to bathe straight off the rocks.
• The Seahorse, Dartmouth
  Featuring exquisite Devon seafood, treated with skill and respect. The menu includes whole, Josper-cooked fish, lobsters, and more.
• The Crab Shell, Dartmouth
  Known for perfect crab sandwiches made with fresh white crabmeat, pepper, and vinegar.
• Beachhouse, South Milton Sands
  Serving local crab sandwiches and mussels directly on the beach – ideal for seafood lovers.
• Crab Shed, Salcombe
  A quaint spot for enjoying a whole or cracked crab, offering excellent grilled fish in a charming setting.
• Anchorstone Cafe, Dittisham
  Overlooking the River Dart, this cafe serves fresh local crab and lobster complemented by stunning sunset views.
• Britannia at the Beach, Kingsbridge
  Owned by a local crab fisherman, this restaurant serves sandwiches and salads made from the freshest daily catch.
• The Wine Loft, Brixham
  Although it doesn’t serve fresh fish, it boasts an impressive selection of beautiful tinned fish and fine wines.

Moreover, these establishments not only focus on culinary excellence but also on community engagement by supplying fresh fish to educational programs and supporting local fishing initiatives. Chef Mitch emphasizes, “It’s all about community,” reflecting a deep passion for sustainable practices, quality food, and a loving connection to the region’s breathtaking landscape.