Star Chef David Skoko on the Secret Canyons and Gastronomic Heritage of Istria
Known as a master of seafood, Istria-born chef David Skoko has made his name cooking up imaginative dishes at his family’s fish restaurant, located just south of Pula on Croatia’s northern coast. Preserving local culinary traditions is a cornerstone of his work as a chef.
Your Base is Istria – Recommendations for First-Time Visitors
Istria is a relatively small region, approximately 60 miles from north to south. With great roads and minimal traffic, everything is within easy reach. For a week-long holiday, I would suggest overnight stays in an old Istrian house in the artistic town of Grožnjan, surrounded by green hills adorned with vineyards and exceptional traditional taverns. The small art galleries in Grožnjan are wonderful highlights, and the local truffles are amongst the best in the world. Just a 20-minute drive brings you to the seaside, while an hour’s drive leads you to the south of Istria, particularly Cape Kamenjak, boasting the most stunning coastline in the northern Adriatic.
Favorite Dining Experiences in Istria
One of my favorite places to dine is the family farm in the village of Zrenj, near Oprtalj in Istria. The industrious family produces incredible quality products, prepared simply. They only operate the restaurant on weekends, dedicating weekdays to agriculture, livestock raising (including cows, pigs, chickens, and sheep), and truffle hunting. Here, you can savor delicious pork sausages, pancetta, prosciutto, top-notch Istrian beef, and fantastic homemade stews with pasta and game, all crafted by chef Orijeta Tončić, who has been perfecting this culinary journey with her family for over 20 years.
Gourmet Destinations in Istria
From a gourmet perspective, the northwestern region of Istria from Savudrija to Buzet is rich in traditional taverns run by generations of hosts. The winemakers and olive oil producers in this area are particularly noteworthy, showcasing the best in regional cuisine. Modern restaurants are increasingly specializing in contemporary regional dishes, with seafood options available around Novigrad and Umag, while continental cuisine thrives around Motovun and Livade.
Relaxation Spots in Croatia
Whenever time allows, I find solace on my beautiful 42-foot boat, named Venus. It reconnects me with the sea, the wind, and nature. Currently, I enjoy camping on Fratarski island, near Pula, where I have spent years with my family. The boat is anchored nearby, enabling spontaneous sailing whenever the wind beckons. Additionally, during spring or early autumn, I often ride my motorbike through the picturesque hills of Gorski Kotar and Lika, where the aroma of unspoiled nature fills the air. I then return to the Adriatic Highway across Velebit, taking one of the most scenic routes from Maslenica to Opatija.
Hidden Gems in Croatia
If traveling by car through Croatia in search of adventure, do not miss Zrmanja canyon in Lika, complemented by the beautiful forests, springs, and mountains of Gorski Kotar. If you seek untouched nature, Kopački Rit in Slavonija is a must-visit. For sailing enthusiasts, I recommend lesser-known islands such as Ilovik, Dugi Otok, Silba, Lastovo, and Olib, as well as the enchanting Elafiti islands west of Dubrovnik, where the beauty celebrated by Odysseus can be appreciated.
The Evolving Culinary Scene in Istria
At the start of my culinary journey, I pursued everything new and different from home, often valuing external influences over my own heritage. I became enamored with modern trends, neglecting the significance of tradition and ancestral knowledge. With experience, I understand now that sustaining our cultural heritage is essential. We must preserve the wisdom passed down by our forebears, presenting our gastronomic heritage in a contemporary yet accessible manner, particularly appealing to younger generations. Fortunately, I am not alone in this mission; a whole generation of visionary chefs recognizes that only simple and sustainable growth can bring about meaningful recognition and progress.
Follow David Skoko on Instagram: @ribarevsin
