Early morning in the city of Trang, and it’s a blend of charcoal smoke and lemongrass. Vendors enthusiastically offer pineapples and bitter beans in thick southern accents. Motorcycles zoom by, handlebars loaded with plastic bags filled with fresh tuna and prawns from the Andaman Sea, just hours earlier. It is a bustling scene where everyone seems to be enjoying a meal.
From the heart of the market, the rhythmic sounds of cleavers chop through roast pork. Whole hogs, seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, and honey, are roasted to perfection in massive ovens. They arrive wrapped in yesterday’s newspaper, diced into sweet morsels. This beloved moo yang is so cherished that it features in the province’s official slogan, which celebrates ‘generous people’ and ‘scenic beaches’.
Trang’s breakfasts are equally renowned. Every day from 4 am, the city transforms into a diverse buffet of stir-fries, noodle soups, grilled pork, and sticky rice dumplings. Open-air kitchens extend onto the pavements where skilled cooks ladle fiery curries over rice. Nearby, a vendor in a headscarf prepares buttery roti, while other early risers flock to market stalls similar to tiny Tokyo omakase joints, hunched over bowls of jok, a silky rice porridge with salted egg and ginger.
Dim Sum Delights
Dim sum takes center stage. Brought by merchants and miners from Canton and southern China during the 19th century, it fuels workers in fishing boats, nipa-palm fields, and rubber plantations.
In Trang, over 70 dim sum spots range from bustling mess halls to quaint hole-in-the-wall eateries with cooling fans and oil-stained surfaces. Skilled cooks prepare hundreds of small metal plates filled with shumai pork dumplings, braised chicken feet, and fluffy buns.
At one of the oldest establishments, I find families gathered around marble-topped tables on plastic stools. Our miniature forks poke through pockets of shrimp and stuffed fried tofu. At the rear of the shop, a coffee counter serves rich, strong kopi, infused with chicory and finished with a thick layer of sweetened condensed milk. Outside, a man dons a mottled apron as he plunges doughnuts into bubbling oil until golden, paired with creamy coconut custard.
A Fusion of Cultures
The culinary influences reflect the Chinese heritage all around town, akin to Penang across the Malaysian border and Phuket, where Chinese merchants constructed pastel-toned Sino-Portuguese shophouses complete with louvred shutters and ornate details. They also built shrines adorned with red lanterns and colorful dragons, honoring the Hokkien, Teochew, Hakka communities, and many others.
I visit Khanaporn ‘Aum’ Chancherdsak for lunch at her chef’s table, Trang Ko’e. Aum, proudly wearing a sarong and kebaya tunic with floral batik, represents her Peranakan heritage. This unique culture stems from southern Chinese settlers along the Malay Peninsula who intermarried with local wives. After her mother’s passing, Aum began exploring the flavors of her ancestry, aiming to recreate the comforting meals her father missed, inviting the curiosity of many locals eager to try this distinctive cuisine.
In her open kitchen, she crafts dishes like pork belly fried in Chinese wine with fermented rice, a rich egg custard with a layer of shrimp paste, and rice dyed blue with butterfly pea flowers served alongside a hearty pineapple curry influenced by Indian Muslim cooking. As I watch her meticulously prepare each dish, I marvel at the labor involved, especially for her nasi kerabu, a complex fishy rice salad requiring many steps.
The Beaches of Trang
Despite being an underrated street food paradise in Thailand, Trang’s center is often overlooked, merely serving as a coffee break between the airport and the scenic piers leading to its enchanting islands.
These islands are some of the most beautiful in the country, showcasing secret southern escapes; they retain simplicity with bamboo huts instead of luxurious resorts and stunning, undeveloped beaches. Wildlife abounds, and a growing community of environmentalists actively strives to protect these fragile ecosystems.
Island Adventures
While most of the islands are no larger than a jungle-covered rock, five gems welcome travelers: Koh Muk, Koh Libong, Koh Ngai, Koh Kradan, and Koh Sukorn—although Sukorn is often left uncharted for most island hoppers due to its remoteness.
Koh Muk, the closest island, is a quick 30-minute long-tail boat ride. It offers a laid-back atmosphere, ideal for those seeking relaxation away from the commercial vibe of Koh Lipe further south. In contrast, Koh Lanta, located a short distance north, presents a more tourist-centric destination.
Once on Koh Muk, a small village extends from the pier, filled with an assortment of minimarts and scooter rentals beneath fluttering birthday-party-like flags. Beachfront bars radiate a relaxed, sun-bleached aesthetic. At night, the local fishermen grill the catch of the day—blue marlin and sizable prawns—paired with chili and ginger, creating a scrumptious evening experience.
Inland, dense rubber plantations and thick jungles cascade down to the limestone hills of the west coast. There are picturesque hiking trails that unveil breathtaking views and secluded sandy stretches—each knows by multiple names depending on who you ask.
On Haad Farang—also known as Charlie Beach in local lingo—I sip on refreshing pineapple smoothies while observing solitary swimmers catch the gentle waves and playful children cheer one another as they climb palm trees, dodging coconuts landing precariously close.
Venturing further along the coast invites more thrilling experiences. One morning, I dive into the sea through a narrow cleft in the rock formations, led by my guide. As I plunge into the darkness, I find myself swimming in a stunning emerald lagoon framed by towering limestone cliffs, where every captain suggests that pirates once hid treasures, adding a sense of adventure to the natural beauty surrounding me.
Conservation Efforts
The focus on environmental preservation becomes even clearer as I witness the challenges faced by local wildlife. Dugongs—the marine creatures or “sea cows”—are a cherished symbol of Trang, yet they are increasingly endangered due to habitat loss, fishing nets, and pollution. The plight of these gentle giants has sparked a sense of urgency among locals to take action, keeping the spirit of conservation intact.
This commitment to protecting the natural beauty of Trang, alongside the rich cultural tapestry woven throughout the town’s culinary scene, makes it an outstanding destination for travelers in search of hidden gems beyond the usual tourist trails. Moreover, the stunning landscapes and delectable flavors ensure it is a place that lingers in the hearts and minds of those who visit.
