As dishes have shifted to become veg-centric, chefs are making meat go even further so not a scrap is wasted. Here’s who does it best

11 June 2021

In the theatrics that make up a restaurant dish, meat has lost its star billing over the past few years. First came small plates of interesting cuts, from pigs’ ears to sweetbreads. Then, as vegetables took centre stage, meat was moved to the side. Currently, it might appear as little more than an afterthought – a final flourish or the invisible foundation on which layers of flavour are built.

When I first moved to London, St John in Clerkenwell was my neighbourhood haunt. It was a place where I could grab punchy Welsh rarebit washed down with a half of stout. However, it was the kitchen’s relationship with meat that captivated me – utilizing every scrap was a refreshingly brave approach. A generation later, the principles of nose-to-tail eating are embedded in the DNA of chefs across the UK, particularly in the West Country. Instead of ordering prime cuts at high prices, chefs are butchering every sinew to extract maximum flavour from an animal, all while treading lightly on environmental resources.

Exceptional Restaurants Leading the Way

Osip, Merlin Labron-Johnson’s allotment-to-table restaurant in Bruton, Somerset, has achieved new levels of culinary delight. Every meal begins with treacle-and-ale bread served with hay-smoked butter and seasoned with cured venison pluck. Although only one course might feature meat, several will benefit from it through stocks and fats. “We only work with venison and chicken and we buy whole animals to ensure nothing goes to waste,” says Labron-Johnson, who creatively cures offal to use as seasoning.

Meanwhile, at The Newt, estate head chef Alan Stewart, who honed his culinary skills in rural France, remarks, “In this area, we’ve grown up with a meat-and-two-veg mentality. However, it’s beginning to change.” Here, vegetables are at the core of the culinary philosophy. “I watch the gardeners care for these crops. It’s my responsibility to showcase them at their finest.” Seasonal dishes highlight the importance of local produce, exemplifying the slow-food movement.

Three Ways to Add Meat as Seasoning, from Alan Stewart at The Newt

1. Make Your Own Bacon Flavour

“Trim bacon rind, chop it up, and simmer it with a splash of water and a couple of ice cubes. Once the water evaporates, you’re left with pure bacon flavouring that can last in the fridge for ages. Brush it over mushrooms or cabbage and grill for enhanced taste.”

2. Elevate Roast Potatoes

“Hold onto leftover steak fat and add it, along with oil, to any tin of roasting potatoes or vegetables. This renders down and adds a whole new dimension of flavour.”

3. Take Stock a Step Further

“When making stock, simmer it for two hours to reduce it to a concentrate, then freeze it in ice-cube bags. Use this in braising beans or vegetables for a rich, savoury boost.”

Another remarkable establishment is The Ethicurean, near Bristol, which recently received a Michelin green star for its commitment to sustainability. Guests are welcomed with home-fermented miso broth and an array of exquisitely prepared dishes that incorporate every part of the animal, showcasing the culinary potential of often-overlooked ingredients.

Fellow green star recipient, Tom Adams of Coombeshead Farm in Cornwall, raises a herd of rare Mangalitsa pigs. His award-winning lardo is used meticulously across a menu that emphasizes vegetables. “We ensure every part of the pig is utilized judiciously, stretching it over meals just like my grandparents would have done,” Adams shares.

Three More Places to Experience Culinary Ingenuity

Chambre Séparée, Ghent
“I trained under head chef Kobe Desramaults, learning to cook vegetables, meat, and fish over fire. Their menu ingeniously combines flavours across multiple small courses.”

Silo, London
“The Brighton original was the first zero-waste restaurant in the UK. Douglas McMaster’s innovative cooking ensures that every ingredient is valued and flavors are amplified, such as in clever dishes like baby leeks seasoned with fish sauce.”

Blue Hill, New York
“In a vegetable-centric menu featuring around 30 dishes, certain elements incorporate meat for added flavor. One memorable dish involved trombetta squash, aged in beef fat and barbecued to perfection.”