Discover the Egadi Islands: Sicily’s Hidden Gem

With their battered beauty, the tiny Egadi islands eclipse even the smoke-puffing Aeolians as Italy’s most curious and offbeat outcrops.

Date: 25 May 2021

Just off the west coast of Sicily, the glossy Italian fantasy runs out of breath amid spawning bluefins and African winds. The Egadi islands offer feral landscapes, featuring phantasmagoric rock formations and chameleonic waters, all set in Europe’s largest marine reserve. Beneath the surface, Neptune grass sways, revealing shipwrecked relics from various ancient civilizations, so common that locals have casually appropriated them as paperweights. Although these islands feel remote, Favignana, the largest, is merely a half-hour hydrofoil ride from Trapani, Sicily. As we approach, the imposing dromedary hump of Favignana looms above, cradling the ancient fort of Santa Caterina.

Stories linger in these waters, with an old priest nearby reflecting, “There are miracles in these waters. There’s more beauty, more divinity here than in all the duomos of Italy.”

At the bustling morning market, fishermen squint against the sunlight, examining their morning catch as if it were precious silverware. One fisherman explains, “The yellow-striped fish? Sarpa – dream fish. Eat it, and you might just see mermaids. Or even Jesus Christ.” Their laughter fills the air, revealing almond-shaped eyes and skin darkened by the sun. A local named Angelo stands behind his stall, resembling a biblical figure, selling delicate pendants fashioned from sea bream.

Until World War II, Favignana claimed the title of the tuna capital of the world, where bluefin tuna were caught during the traditional summer mattanza, an ancient fishing practice that dates back to Phoenician times. The tonnaroti, or tuna fishers, would solemnly row out donning traditional wool suits and black berretto hats, resembling a somber procession to their nets. “We respected the cycle of life,” recalls an elderly fisherman. “Let them spawn first. We ate every part of them.”

However, the advent of radar technology fundamentally changed fishing practices. Commercial boats began intercepting tunas before they reached the Mediterranean shallows, which led to a significant decline in local fish populations.

By the 1990s, the once-bustling waters of Favignana grew quiet, with the tonnara warehouse transformed into a museum. Today, the last surviving tonnaroti are revered like retired champions, resilient men who once engaged in epic battles against hefty tuna. Clemente Ventrone, now in his seventies, roars into the port on his Harley-Davidson, a figure reminiscent of a bronzed athlete, distinct with his spirited tales.

I set out on a rented motorbike, traversing the scenic coastal paths and discovering a variety of coves. The landscape is dotted with agave and graced by the movements of hidden wildlife. Each corner reveals unexpected oases of homes, with vibrant blooms dancing over gates and cliffs that plunge 50 feet into watery depths. As I ride, I inhale the mingled scents of the sea, the herbs, and the sky.

At Cala Rossa, the view is breathtaking. There are no official paths here, just a tapestry of confident locals navigating the rocky terrain. Instinct guides them as they sunbathe on stone platforms, merging with the natural beauty that surrounds them. Their laughter dances through the air as the sky transforms colors, from vivid blue to shades of prawn shell and mackerel.

Where to Eat on the Egadi Islands

In Favignana Town, family-run Quello Che C’è… C’è! serves fresh sea bream and scorpionfish, alongside delicate carpaccio of yellowtail. Sotto Sale, featuring a Museum of Rust made from salvaged fishing artifacts, serves inventive dishes including tuna tataki and couscous sushi. On Marettimo, the charming Il Veliero offers traditional recipes like spicy lobster soup and light fritto misto. Another hotspot is La Scaletta, known for its relaxed atmosphere and fresh ingredients, where the owner, Giovanni Maiorana, uniquely prepares each dish based on the fresh catch of the day.

Best Places to Stay on the Egadi Islands

Dimora Cala del Pozzo, Favignana

The La Cavera family has elevated Favignana’s aesthetics with linen-covered retreats that rival those found in the Aeolian Islands. Dimora Cala del Pozzo, nestled among picturesque landscapes, provides a serene atmosphere that feels like a work of art. Visitors can enjoy evening strolls in beautiful settings.

Il Baglio Sull’Acqua, Favignana

This baglio, a Sicilian farmhouse, sits atop World War II tunnels and features an underground lake. It has transformed into a serene retreat, adorned with Moroccan antiques, creating a unique blend of history and modern luxury.

Casa dell’Arancio, Favignana Town

Located among the island’s best restaurants, this former Arabic house offers a cozy, Moroccan-style atmosphere with a white glazed roof that overlooks the local church.

Zu Nillu, Cala Rossa, Favignana

Set above Cala Rossa, this elegant 19th-century quarryman’s residence seamlessly blends historic charm with modern comfort, creating an enchanting escape for guests.

Hiera, Marettimo

This serene two-bedroom fisherman’s house boasts stunning ocean views and an inviting atmosphere. It is perfect for those who wish to experience both nature and luxury.