Discovering Taiwan: A Journey with iBestTravel

With a toot of its horn and a metallic screech, the Alishan Forest Railway rumbles out of Chiayi, a midsize city in southern Taiwan. As the humid jumble of roaring motorcycles and bubble-tea shops vanishes behind me, knotted electrical wires make way for betelnut plantations and small-town back gardens that straddle railroad tracks first built for loggers. The train, a popular attraction that brings people up and down the mountains, sputters past rice paddies and citrus orchards so close I can almost reach out and nab the fruits from my window. Bamboo and sugar palms tickle the sides of the carriage. As the ride coils higher towards the peak, around zig-zag bends, the views fade behind a veil of fog held up by ancient red cypress trees whose cobra-size roots cover the ground like noodles.

Exploring Alishan’s Retreat

My journey to the mountain retreat of Alishan is a slideshow of kaleidoscopic green that sums up the diversity of Taiwan, via tea estates and high-altitude forests dotted with Buddhist temples. It is a land where travellers can go from tropical coast to dense woodland in under two hours – part of the appeal of this aubergine-shaped nation less than half the size of Ireland. Alishan is one of my favourite stops on a road trip through the country, beginning in the capital, Taipei, in the north; continuing past some of the nine national parks full of hot springs; over cloud-shrouded mountaintops; and on to the surf and crystalline beaches of the far south.

AHeartfelt Connection

Taiwan has been close to my heart since I first came here in 2012 on a gap-year jaunt around Asia. My guide was a young woman named Etty, who I’d first contacted via Couchsurfing. We met for coffee in Bangkok to share travel tips (she was planning to visit my home country of the Netherlands). We happened to be in Taiwan at the same time, and I ended up meeting her parents in Taichung – a town of skyscrapers and steaming, neon-glowing night markets – because that’s what happens in a place where family is everything.

Discovering Local Culture

We crisscrossed the Taroko National Park on a scooter and were soon mapping out trips through Japan, Cambodia, and Sri Lanka, realizing this was more than a holiday fling. We moved back to Bangkok together and are now married with a two-year-old who has a Taiwanese middle name and a Dutch last name. Returning to Taichung a few times a year, I see it through my wife’s eyes – as a home of sorts, with crammed dinner tables and kaoliang toasts to Popo, Etty’s late grandmother, who refused to believe I wasn’t American.

Historical Context

Taiwan was variously held by the Dutch, Spanish, and Chinese until it was invaded by the Japanese in 1895. The new rulers went about building railroads, tunnels, and factories, turning the country into a supplier for Japan’s booming industry until they were ousted after World War II. Chiang Kai-shek, the Chinese Nationalist leader who fled the newly Communist mainland, envisioned a Confucian society that respected the past while integrating a Western-friendly form of capitalism. Even as the nation emerged as one of the four Asian Tiger economic powerhouses, the culture he nurtured has endured.

Experiencing Jiufen

I feel Japan’s influence at Jiufen, one of my first stops, a seaside town in the lush mountains east of Taipei. Its hillside teahouses and lantern-lined alleys were mostly built by Japanese gold-seekers in the late 19th century. It is still a favored destination for Japanese visitors, inspired by the setting of Spirited Away, Hayao Miyazaki’s surreal animated film. I trek upwards through grassy plains to a Jenga stack of colossal boulders on top of Teapot Mountain, where local guide Steven Chang shares stories of mŏ-sīn-á, the mythic creatures believed to cause accidents for hikers.

Immersing in Local Traditions

Wherever you are in Taiwan, temples are never far. Their crowns jut from suburban neighbourhoods and far-flung woods, topped with spiraling multicolored dragons, phoenixes, and intricate scenes dancing from one gabled roof to another. Each tile is carefully crafted, showcasing an ancient southern Chinese art that has flourished in Taiwan, where Taoism, Buddhism, Christianity, and local customs coexist harmoniously.

Tea Culture

My next stop is one of the region’s tea plantations, where oolong tea is as prized as Champagne. I meet a troupe of tea pluckers in traditional hats as they showcase their skill and craftsmanship in hand-harvesting. This personal touch contributes to the high quality of the tea uniquely found in Taiwan.

A Surfing Getaway in Dulan

Eventually, I arrive in Dulan, a surf town where windswept palms fill the plains between the sea and mountains. Mom-and-pop shops alternate with surf schools and guesthouses creating a charming atmosphere. The sense of community is palpable as surfers and locals gather around the black-sand beach, sharing stories and experiences. In Dulan, Taiwan’s unique rhythm becomes evident, embodying the island’s distinct cultural identity.

Conclusion

Taiwan remains an extraordinary destination, captivating visitors with its vibrant culture, stunning landscapes, and rich history. Whether you’re exploring bustling cities or finding tranquility in nature, there is always something unique to experience in Taiwan.