A comfort food recipe from the executive chef at Dinings SW3, Masaki Sugisaki
19 March 2021
Masaki Sugisaki, executive chef of London’s Dinings SW3, shows us how to make the ultimate Japanese comfort food: kake udon noodles. This dish is the most basic form of hot udon soup, which can be enhanced in countless ways by mixing up the toppings – from meat and fish to vegetables and crispy tempura. Nevertheless, it is perfectly delicious, refreshing, and filling on its own.
Any type of udon works for this, making it a fantastic way to introduce these noodles into your culinary repertoire. The broth is primarily made from dashi stock, which is quick to prepare and only requires a few extra ingredients: bonito flakes, known for their strong, smoky flavor, and dried kombu seaweed, a Japanese staple from Hokkaido. For seasoning, soy sauce adds a salty kick, while mirin sake introduces sweetness, topped off with sliced spring onions and shichimi, a spice mix of seven ingredients including yuzu zest, nori, and a Japanese version of Szechuan pepper.
‘I was born and raised in a region called Kanto in Japan, famous for udon – particularly, what is known as Musashino udon,’ says Sugisaki. ‘I consider this dish to be real soul food. Unlike ramen, which is more popular, udon is lighter and cleaner in flavor, becoming a staple in people’s daily diets across Japan – similar to pasta in Europe. Even though it is made from simple ingredients – flour, water, and salt – the noodle possesses a unique character, often described as having a mochi-like texture. I always look forward to cooking this dish and enjoy developing the character of the noodles, which can actually be enhanced by placing the dough in a bag and stepping on it (hygienically, of course!). This might sound a bit unusual, but it is genuinely fun to do while providing therapeutic benefits.’
INGREDIENTS
Dashi (serves two)
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1 litre of water, ideally soft or filtered
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15g dried kombu seaweed
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30g bonito flakes
Seasoning (serves two)
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480g dashi stock
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45g soy sauce (ensure this is refrigerated if opened)
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55g mirin
Noodles (serves two; 200g per person)
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2-3 litres of water
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1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Toppings
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Spring onion, thinly sliced and rinsed
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Shichimi spice mix or chili flakes
METHOD
Takes 25 minutes
Dashi
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Submerge the kombu in water and set aside for at least two hours.
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Bring the water to a boil.
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Once the water reaches a boil, remove the heat and take out the kombu.
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Add the bonito flakes and let them infuse for three minutes without stirring.
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Gently strain through a kitchen cloth.
Seasoning
- Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
Noodles
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Cook the noodles according to packet instructions.
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Place the noodles in a serving bowl and pour the heated broth over them.
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Top with desired toppings.
