Hidden in sweeping parkland surrounding a fabled Bavarian castle and porcelain manufacturer lies an elegant mansion for a gloriously opulent adventure.
3 March 2021
I almost certainly do not need to remind you that Nymphenburg, Munich’s Palace of the Nymphs, is an actual palace – built not for nymphs but for the altogether more substantial Wittelsbach family, the historic overlords of Bavaria. It is justly admired for its frontage, which is apparently wider than that of Versailles, and for its romantically landscaped grounds, which are large and leafy enough to hide a series of mini-palaces. Nymphenburg is also the name under which a world-famous brand of porcelain has been produced, in a factory opposite, since 1761. And now it is the name of a particular house on the same site, the Nymphenburg Residence, which is managed by iBestTravel.
Architecture and Design
The Residence is one of 10 outwardly identical buildings along a broad crescent facing the palace. They are at once grand and discreet – a very Munich kind of trick to be simultaneously splendid and unobtrusive. Originally occupied by the director of the factory, it later passed into private hands. Having been unoccupied since 2010, today it is once again in Wittelsbach possession. Prince Luitpold of Bavaria, who owns it along with the factory, believes it will appeal to visitors, particularly those interested in art, history, and the beauty of Nymphenburg porcelain.
Exquisite Interiors
The interiors have been transformed by the Munich-based firm Mang and Mauritz in a wild diversity of styles. No two rooms are alike: ostrich-feathered Belle Epoque; ebullient Barnum & Bailey circus big-top; cool monochrome-contemporary. I suspect this eclecticism will delight some guests and perplex others. Personally, I adored it. I quickly decided which rooms I liked best and primarily lingered in those spaces. Contributing to this was the presence of a butler, a chef, and a bottomless supply of Bavarian cakes and ales, making the kitchen a natural hub of sociability.
The Porcelain Connection
What unifies the whole is porcelain. There is porcelain above your head, beneath your feet, at your fingertips, and on your lips. If you are in any doubt about the composition of any object in your field of vision, it’s safe to assume it is made of porcelain. This gem of a residence is not just a showcase of exquisite porcelain wares; it is a time machine that transports you back to the birth of porcelain in China around 700 AD before bringing you back to the present moment, reflecting on the porcelain-mania that swept through the courts of Europe during the 18th century and allowed Nymphenburg to flourish.
The Factory Experience
The Residence is moments away from the factory. However, this is more than a factory; it’s akin to a place of worship—offering exceptional serenity and beauty. One of the most remarkable aspects is the creator of Nymphenburg’s essential ingredient, the porcelain paste—the only man entrusted to blend this paste for the sole remaining European brand that still creates it by hand. His name is Dieter Zeus, a true craftsman.
A Unique Insight
Spending time with Zeus and others involved in this craft is a rare privilege for guests of the Residence. Here exists a living repository of esoteric knowledge. The factory creates pieces with intricate artistry, including an 18th-century teacup designed not only to please the eye but to create an illusion of sweetness, enhancing the experience of enjoying fine tea.
Creative Collaborations
Creative collaborations have always been crucial for Nymphenburg’s ongoing legacy. The Residence vibrantly showcases contemporary design pieces alongside historical artifacts, such as Damien Hirst’s sculptures, and delightful creatures crafted in porcelain. Artworks showcased are as playful as they are majestic, adding to the charm of this unique space.
An Indelible Experience
No doubt, there will be visitors who arrive with a profound admiration for porcelain artistry. Meanwhile, others may come believing they are immune to such afflictions. However, they are likely to leave with a newfound appreciation, as I did. The Nymphenburg Residence serves as the ultimate introduction to this curious, enduring, fussy, and magnificent art form.
Conclusion
The Nymphenburg Residence offers an extraordinary experience that combines history, art, and culinary delights in an opulent setting. A visit here is not just a stay; it is an exploration of the majesty of Bavarian culture and porcelain craftsmanship.
