Essex, located on the eastern edges of London, often remains overlooked by many. However, beyond the modern developments of the 1960s lies a landscape of unexpected beauty and pristine wilderness, where modernism seamlessly intertwines with village folklore. In this article, we explore Essex’s rich history and provide insight into the best day trips, restaurants, bars, and art galleries in the area.
Date: 28 November 2020
Essex is often misunderstood, often considered merely a mix of suburbia and the green belt. Its image might suggest a little noise and chaos, where its edges appear to be nothing but mud flats and debris. However, it’s time for a fresh perspective. The Essex that I knew as a child—and have grown intimately familiar with—reveals itself as a region full of surprises. From the scenic views over verdant fields that unexpectedly uncover Chelmsford’s skyline to a quaint village cricket ground on the outskirts of Epping Forest positioned above a motorway tunnel, Essex continually defies expectations.
Historically significant, St Peter-on-the-Wall, located at the tip of the Dengie Peninsula, is one of the oldest church buildings in the UK, dating back to the seventh century. Its ancient structure, a mosaic of materials including repurposed Roman elements, stands isolated yet captivating. The best approach to this historic site is along the sea wall, which leads you toward this diminutive yet awe-inspiring edifice. Nature writer Robert Macfarlane even pitched his tent nearby, immortalizing its allure in his work, The Wild Places. This area boasts a significant natural landscape, adorned with sea lavender, marshes, and an array of migratory birds—each adding splashes of color to the scene.
The remoteness and tranquility of Essex attract those seeking peace and alternative lifestyles. During the 1890s, a small group of Tolstoyan anarchists settled in Purleigh, aiming to establish a smallholding experiment that welcomed both Russian visitors and local residents alike. They later shifted to a colony at Whiteway in the Cotswolds, but some stayed behind, leaving historical ripples that echo through time. Essex has also been a refuge for various groups, from religious sects to Jewish communities seeking space and fresh opportunities.
Despite Essex’s rich character, many experience it as merely a transit point, often using the A12 or M25 without touching upon its hidden gems—hundreds of miles of scenic river estuaries leading to the North Sea, characterized by a captivating interplay of creeks and inlets shaped by tidal forces. The Roman city of Camulodunum, now Colchester, tells of ancient stories, with Boudicca’s revolt leading to its destruction. The area is also known for Mersea Island, celebrated for its breezy ambiance, sailboats, and exquisite oysters.
Exciting Destinations and Pit-Stops in Essex
Colchester
This town, rich in Roman history, offers contemporary attractions such as the angular, gold-skinned Firstsite gallery, designed by architect Rafael Viñoly, alongside the Church Street Tavern that features local artworks and dynamic cooking.
Mistley
Mistley is characterized by a nostalgic atmosphere, enhanced by its coastal village charm and the scent of malt from local works. The hub of the community, The Mistley Thorn, serves delicious meals featuring fresh catches from the quay, offering a delightful culinary experience.
Dedham
Set in a picturesque vale, Dedham boasts charming hospitality at The Sun Inn, where visitors can enjoy duck breast paired with smoked plum, alongside scenic rowing opportunities at the Boathouse Restaurant.
Finchingfield
This quintessential English village is characterized by its enchanting duck pond and intriguing historical architecture. Today, it hosts exciting dining options, including the Finchingfield Lion, renowned for its smoked meats and local ales.
Epping
Epping serves as an ideal entry point for rambling through Epping Forest. It features cozy coffee shops and a remarkable dining experience at Haywards, which creatively utilizes local produce for its unique dishes.
Great Waltham
Brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin have championed local ingredients and made their mark through the Green Man pub, encouraging visitors to appreciate Essex’s abundant gastronomic offerings.
Delightful Islands Nearby
The estuary islands of Essex present a unique, rustic charm, accessible via tidal causeways. Mersea Island is famed for its seafood establishments, while Osea is emerging as a trendy location for culinary experiences involving foraged ingredients, highlighting the area’s diverse ecosystem.
Cultural Renaissance in Essex
Southend has undergone a transformation in recent years, solidifying its status as a hub for creativity. With an influx of art festivals and exhibitions, the region now enjoys a burgeoning contemporary art scene, breathing new life into Essex’s cultural landscape.
In conclusion, Essex is a region that beckons exploration. From historical landmarks to vibrant culinary scenes and artistic communities, it offers an abundance of experiences waiting to be discovered. For more insights about visiting and experiencing Essex, consider exploring relevant resources and local heritage.
