Discover Aragawa: London’s Most Expensive Steakhouse in Mayfair
28 November 2023
Upon arriving at Aragawa, I found myself feeling anxious about how to convey my experience at this celebrated establishment. This Tokyo-based restaurant opened its doors in Mayfair recently, claiming the title of ‘London’s most expensive steak.’ Prices soar above £500 for a single cut of beef, a sum that only the wealthiest can afford. I initially expected an extravagant scene reminiscent of a Succession episode, filled with affluent patrons indulging in lavish dining. However, my experience was quite different.
The Backstory
Kotaro Ogawa, the warm-hearted founder of Aragawa London, made significant sacrifices to introduce this renowned eatery to London, moving his family and key staff to the UK amidst the challenges posed by the pandemic. Among them are Head Chef Fumiya Kase, previously of the Michelin-starred L’orgueil, and Kazuo Imayosh, the ‘steak master’ who has honed his craft for over 40 years. Remarkably, Aragawa in Tokyo, which has maintained its status as the world’s priciest steakhouse since its inception in 1967, has influenced every detail of this London location, from a custom kiln to hand-blown Riedel glasses.
The Ambiance
Located in an unassuming townhouse on Clarges Street, the restaurant showcases a design by Dale Atkinson from Rosendale Design, spanning two floors. The upper level features an extensive collection of over 1,000 wines and a private dining room. Below, red velvet seating and hand-painted panels create an elegant yet welcoming atmosphere. An open kitchen allows guests to observe the steak master in action, adding an interactive element to the dining experience.
The Food Experience
What is it truly like to savor a £760 sirloin steak? It’s akin to enjoying a delicate and exquisite piece of art. This dining experience is crafted to perfection, with Ogawa likening the farmers to artisans dedicated to raising Tajima Heifer Wagyu cows. These cows, known for their exceptional fat marbling, are nurtured for 28 to 40 months before being cooked using a unique broiling process over high-quality Binchotan charcoal.
Our friendly server recommended a medium-rare cut, which is deftly prepared at the table. The resulting steak is incredibly soft, reminiscent of sashimi, and requires no additional flavor enhancement. The experience is so divine that I felt a sense of loss when finishing my last bite.
The menu features various options of the prized Tajima beef, ranging from the 29-month-aged Ichibo starting at £500 to the 40-month-aged fillet Chateaubriand at £900. Other luxurious offerings include Whole Scottish lobster and grilled aubergine, along with decadent starters like Nova Caviar and lobster cocktails. Each dish showcases an artistic flair, from the delicate drunken scallop to the fondant cheesecake dessert paired with unique sweet potato and pear ice cream.
Commitment to Sustainability
While the restaurant sources its beef from Japan, it remains firmly rooted in ethical practices. Ogawa is committed to preserving the cultural heritage of Tajima beef, recognizing the impact of discontinuing these farms. Thus, the menu includes high-quality local ingredients, affirming a sustainable approach to fine dining.
Accessibility
Note that there is no elevator access to the main dining area. However, the private dining room is accessible at ground level, ensuring that every guest feels welcome.
