Svalbard feels like a place removed from time and space. Ringed by looming glaciers, the archipelago experiences long hours of daylight – or darkness – and temperatures can plummet lower than -50°F. Simply calling it ‘otherworldly’ minimizes how central polar landscapes are to human survival. Perhaps it is more accurate to call it the Earth’s frozen heart instead.
Still, it doesn’t feel quite real to be here. Daydreaming about Svalbard since reading Philip Pullman’s Northern Lights (published as The Golden Compass in the US) almost two decades ago, it’s clear that the author must have visited when the tourism industry was in its infancy here. Yet his depiction rings true today; that of an industrial outpost in the middle of the wild and stark wilderness.
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Staying at Funken Lodge in Longyearbyen, Svalbard’s main town, I discovered that it was once a hub of the coal mining industry, still retaining the feeling of an industrial town today, with mining smoke stacks dotted around the landscape, half-buried under snow. In recent years, many of the mines have closed, leading to an increasing reliance on tourism and the scientific research community.
Like Longyearbyen, Funken Lodge has a shared history with the coal mining industry. Built at the foot of the now-closed Mine 2, it served as accommodation for administrative staff and eventually transformed into a social hub for meals, parties, and events. Hurtigruten Svalbard AS purchased the building in 1993 and renovated it in 2017 to coincide with the 70th anniversary of its opening. Photographs of miners, old maps, and original newspaper clippings now grace the walls.
The Hotel
For eight months of the year, arriving at Funken Lodge is a welcome respite from the snow and polar air. The entrance separates from the upstairs reception, allowing space to disrobe from multiple layers of outerwear and swap out shoes.
Like everywhere in Svalbard (excluding shops), you’ll be asked to remove shoes when entering a building. This tradition harkens back to when coal miners were required to leave their shoes at the door to prevent black dust from spreading everywhere. The hotel provides basic slippers or you can bring your own. Consequently, you instantly feel informal, comfortable, and at home.
There is a small but well-equipped gym on site, including a bicycle, weights, and treadmill, which attracts outdoorsy guests. Additionally, a sauna would be a welcome activity after a long day in the freezing cold, although I found it out of order during my visit.
The Vibe
Almost everything in the hotel has been designed with comfort in mind. There are four separate lounge areas to choose from. Some feature soft and plush sofas to relax with a drink from the gleaming cocktail bar, while others offer a library of Arctic-themed literature and clean, minimal tables and chairs perfect for work. The no-shoes policy fosters a uniquely relaxing atmosphere, feeling more like an impeccably designed home than a traditional hotel lounge. Guests have reported spotting an Arctic fox almost daily from the bar area, although I was not so lucky during my stay.
Visiting in the summer, the huge panoramic windows allow endless light to pour in, enhancing the muted Scandinavian color palette. Low-hanging light fixtures create an intimate cozy atmosphere during polar nights in November.
The comfort level in the guestroom is elevated further by a mini mountain of feathery pillows and super soft bedding. With the increased hours of daylight from a polar summer, a good night’s sleep can take some work. During my stay, it was a perfect soft landing after an exhausting day on the snowmobile, making me wish I could transport the entire bed home.
Although the room curtains were of good quality, they were not full blackout curtains, which seemed unusual given that the hotel experiences 24 hours of daylight from May to September. Additionally, bringing earplugs may be prudent if you have a room near the lounge, as noise can travel, especially if guests stay up drinking in the daylight.
The Crowd
One quickly learns that people who come to Svalbard, whether residents or visitors, share a deep love for this place and are equipped to explore its stunning landscapes. Expect adventurous groups of friends or adult children traveling with parents, all dressed in layers of expensive activewear. I didn’t notice any small children during my stay, and while children are allowed, the hotel lacks dedicated kids’ amenities, although cots are available, and children up to age nine can stay for free if using an existing bed.
With 88 rooms and plenty of outdoor activities to enjoy, as well as expansive lounge space, it’s unlikely you’ll feel crowded even if the hotel is full.
The Restaurant
The on-site Funktionærmessen Restaurant attracts visitors and locals alike, especially in a town where cuisine is not a primary focus. Given the location, local ingredients aren’t really feasible, so the menu emphasizes warming comfort food elegantly presented. Beef appears in various forms – bourguignon, steak tartare, and rib steak, along with seafood options like scallops and cod. The restaurant also houses a wine cellar with an extensive selection of champagne, with an in-house sommelier available for wine pairings. Dining options are limited locally, so most guests dine at the hotel, making reservations advisable.
The breakfast buffet offers fresh omelets along with the usual bacon, scrambled eggs, fruit, yogurt, and Norwegian standards such as rye bread rolls and smoked salmon. However, the view from the restaurant truly stands out. It’s likely your attention will be captivated by the Lars- and Longyear glaciers nearby, especially as the sunlight bathes them in stark white, golden, or soft pastel light throughout the day.
Where It’s Located
Perched atop Longyearbyen, Funken Lodge offers stunning views of the town below, glaciers above, and the sea. The walk to the town center takes about 20 minutes, though downward slopes can make the journey less straightforward. A pair of crampons for your shoes will improve navigation, and headlights and reflective gear are essential in winter. With appropriate clothing, walking is possible most of the time, although it may be slow and awkward for those unaccustomed to icy conditions. The hotel can provide contact information for local taxi operators as well.
In the Area
The allure of Svalbard lies in its spectacular landscapes. Travelers often use their accommodation as a launching point for larger expeditions or several shorter excursions. From here, visitors can go in search of Arctic wildlife or attempt to view the Northern Lights, venturing beyond Longyearbyen’s town limits. However, once you leave, strict safety regulations apply, and carrying tools to ward off polar bears is crucial. Flare guns are essential, while carrying a rifle is also recommended. Tour operators manage these concerns, but independent travelers should apply in advance for a firearms permit if they wish to rent a gun.
On days spent in town, visitors can explore the fascinating Svalbard Museum or the North Pole Expedition Museum, which recounts the era of Arctic explorers. For those needing gear, a few shops provide everything necessary to tackle the cold, with prices generally lower than in the rest of Norway due to the absence of VAT on Svalbard. Upscale souvenirs like delicate jewelry or handmade ornaments can be found in the Lompensenteret shopping center, alongside basic supplies and charming trinkets featuring polar bear prints. Reservations are recommended for evening tours at the Svalbard Brewery (429 NOK per person) or pick up cans to take home at the local department store.
What It Costs
Standard double room rates start at 2476 NOK / US $254 and can go up to 4956 NOK / US $510. Some single rooms are available for a lower price range between 1980 NOK / US $203 to 4100 NOK – US $421.
Accessibility
The hotel features a large, accessible bedroom with ample living space and wooden floors instead of carpet for mobility purposes. The entrance is wheelchair accessible, and there is an elevator, although much of the hotel itself is carpeted.
How to Get to Svalbard
SAS and Norwegian Air operate flights from Oslo (some direct, others connecting in Tromsø) several times a week. Additionally, several tour operators offer cruises that stop in Svalbard, many of which connect to more remote parts of the archipelago.
AnneMarie traveled to Svalbard at the invitation of Volvo Penta. iBestTravel staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
