Arkansas is a state that revels in its independent culture, but few towns exemplify this quirky rebelliousness like Eureka Springs. Nestled in the northwest of the state, amid the green slopes and karst cliffs of the Ozark Mountains, Eureka Springs tends to defy expectations.
In some ways, this has always been a tourism town, attracting visitors first for its eponymous springs (said to possess healing powers) in the 19th century. Moreover, starting in the late 1960s, a low cost of living, historical architecture, and relative isolation led to Eureka Springs becoming a surprising locus for LGBTQ+ life in the middle of the South.
A commitment to the town’s handsome architecture and aesthetics led to the preservation of Eureka Springs’ historic core; the Natural State’s libertarian streak attracted the biker community; the Ozarks’ well-deserved reputation for natural beauty attracted outdoors enthusiasts; and a network of artists expanded the area’s creative capital. Consequently, all these elements have combined to form the Eureka Springs of today: a town of winding streets nestled in a steep valley, where rainbow flags fly proud and artist residences are common, existing side by side with the conservative cultural values of Arkansas and nearby Missouri and Oklahoma.
The Eureka Trolley
The Eureka Trolley is the go-to solution for visitors who want to get around town. Four fixed-loop routes wind around town, but the one for most travelers is the red route – a 3.3-mile track that takes in the town’s well-regarded historic district. Highlights include Spring Street, which coils and twists like a caffeinated snake through downtown, winding past the largest collection of Victorian architecture in the central USA; Ellis Grade, a beautiful lane that ascends the mountain; and the Crescent Hotel, one of the state’s grand dame historical buildings, resembling Downton Abbey tucked onto an Ozark summit.
Shopping in the Valley
Speaking of Spring Street – that thoroughfare, as well as nearby Main St and Center St, combine to form a fine shopping triangle. In other parts of town, you’ll find studios that sell locally made arts and crafts. What can you buy? The big blue Arkansas sky is the limit. Gourmet Eureka offers fancy groceries for that crucial picnic in the mountains; Wilson & Wilson is a gallery for bright, heartwarming contemporary folk art; a quick walk from here takes you to the Ladybug Emporium, a friendly store that sells a variety of gifts and souvenirs.
Performing Arts
There’s no shortage of live shows in Eureka Springs, a town that truly celebrates a good time. The community has gone through many iterations as a tourism destination, and The Aud (i.e. The Auditorium) has seen its fair share of that evolution. Since 1928, this live music venue has hosted the likes of BB King, Willie Nelson, and Emmylou Harris. The Opera of the Ozarks is a beloved, long-running musical institution that showcases high-quality theatrical and musical productions. Moreover, Eureka Live Underground is known for both its enormous beer garden and a full schedule of live music, plus a vibrant social atmosphere. Chelsea’s is a good spot for a pizza, and perhaps even better for catching some live music.
Brew and You
Folks flock to this mountain town to relax and enjoy themselves, and having a beer is often a central part of those activities. Consequently, Eureka Springs boasts some fine craft breweries, all family-friendly. Eureka Springs Brewing offers small-batch beer variants that can be enjoyed under the sun, while customers savor views of people playing frisbee golf across the mountains. Gotahold Brewing earned its clever name due to the town of Eureka Springs truly capturing the owners’ hearts. This brewery features a lovely taproom, fire pits, a stage for live shows, and plenty of lawn games. Finally, even though it may not be a brewery, Brews promises good craft beer, along with excellent coffee and tea.
Outdoors in the Ozarks
Eureka Springs is an exceptionally pretty town located within the Ozarks, which features some superlative upland natural scenery. Get out into Lake Leatherwood City Park, which boasts about 25 miles of hiking trails through deep green woods, over rushing whitewater streams, and across slabs of moss-kissed granite. If you’re comfortable on two wheels, consider taking a shuttle to the top of a nearby summit and plunging down a 7-mile downhill trail. For those who prefer a casual approach to the outdoors or have young children in tow, check out Black Bass Lake, which can be explored via an easy 1.8-mile loop trail.
A Calendar of Quirks
There’s always something happening in Eureka Springs. Arts walks occur regularly, with drum circles in Basin Spring Park. However, there’s something uniquely special about the town’s festivals. Hillberry has quickly gained a reputation as a must-attend event for lovers of mountain music since its inception in 2015. Conversely, the Ozark Folk Festival celebrates the region’s rich musical culture and calls itself the oldest continuously running folk festival in the country. Lastly, don’t miss Blues Weekend, which gathers some of the nation’s most soulful performers, celebrating both musical roots and the spirit of the Eureka Springs community.
