Shikoku’s Kagawa Prefecture, formerly known as Sanuki, may be the smallest of all of Japan’s 47 prefectures. However, for those interested in exploring off the standard tourist route, Shikoku offers plenty of intrigue.
Island hop in the Inland Sea, hike up a Fuji look-alike with locals, search for your doppelgänger among 500 temple statues or try one of Japan’s legendary noodle dishes – Sanuki udon.
Enjoy the Burgeoning Arts Scene
Fuelling interest in the creative movement is the renowned “art island” in the Inland Sea, Naoshima. While Yayoi Kusama’s Yellow Pumpkin has become a symbol of Naoshima, her massive Red Pumpkin at the port invites exploration from the inside.
Formerly rural and remote, Naoshima has transformed into a world-class center for contemporary art. Moreover, Japan’s most lauded architects have contributed to the area with museums, a boutique hotel, and even a bathhouse, all designed to enhance the island’s natural beauty.
The artistic magnetism of Naoshima is rubbing off on nearby islands, and for the 2022 Setouchi Triennale festival, a total of 12 islands and two mainland ports are involved in an “arts extravaganza” running through spring, summer, and autumn, that includes visual arts, music, drama, and dance.
On the Kagawa mainland, a must-see museum is the Takamatsu City Museum of Art, located in the city’s main shopping district. The Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum, east of Takamatsu city, showcases the American-Japanese sculptor’s vision for art lovers.
Peek into the Japan of Yesteryear
Takamatsu city’s Ritsurin-kōen, renowned as one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens, was constructed in the mid-1600s as a walking garden for the enjoyment of the daimyō (regional lord). Stroll the park trails which wind around a series of ponds, bridges, and islands. Explore the Sanuki Folkcraft Museum or sip matcha (green tea) at teahouses scattered around the gardens.
East of the city, in Yashima, lies the “village museum” of Shikoku-mura. Here, traditional houses and buildings were relocated from all over Shikoku to recreate a village from a bygone era. The fine kabuki stage came from Shōdoshima, famed for its traditional farmers’ kabuki performances, is among the top attractions.
Marugame Castle is one of only 12 castles in Japan to have its original wooden donjon intact. Built in 1597, it is renowned for its exquisite stone walls, moat, and 1000 cherry trees that explode with blossoms every spring. It’s an easy bike ride from Marugame Station.
Take Part in the 88 Sacred Temples Pilgrimage
Historically, many visitors to Shikoku were pilgrims striving for enlightenment on the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku Pilgrimage. This 1400km (870-mile) pilgrimage circuit has been walked for over 1200 years, with the last 22 of the 88 temples located in Kagawa.
The great saint of Shingon Buddhism, Kōbō Daishi, who established this pilgrimage and attained enlightenment on Shikoku, was born at Zentsū-ji, Temple 75. Trust in Buddha as you venture into the basement of the Mie-dō and traverse a lengthy passageway in pitch darkness. By moving carefully along with your hand pressed to the passageway’s wall, painted with mandalas, angels, and lotus flowers, it is believed that you are safely following Buddha’s way.
Mountain-top Temple 66, Unpen-ji, known as “the temple in the clouds,” features 500 mesmerizing and life-like Rakan statues and is reached by its own aerial ropeway. It’s said that everyone has a doppelgänger among the 500, making the search a delightful experience.
Temple 85, Yakuri-ji, accessed by a retro cable car, sits under the high cliffs of Goken-zan, east of Takamatsu.
The last of the 88 temples, Ōkubo-ji, is located in the mountains in southeast Kagawa. However, to truly complete the pilgrimage, visitors must return to Temple 1 in Tokushima Prefecture, symbolizing the endless search for enlightenment.
Shikoku’s most-celebrated Shinto shrine is Konpira-san, formally known as Kotohira-gū, dedicated to the guardian of mariners. If you tell a Japanese person you’ve visited Kagawa, they’ll likely ask if you climbed Konpira-san, famous for its exhausting 785-step climb up to the main shrine and 1368 steps to the inner shrine.
Sample Tasty Sanuki Cuisine
Mention Kagawa Prefecture to any fan of Japanese cuisine, and they will likely mention the udon noodles first. This is udon-ken (udon prefecture), and various versions of the thick, wheat-flour noodles can be found on almost every corner.
Hone-tsuki-dori is a grilled or baked chicken-on-the-bone dish, believed to have originated in Marugame and is popular across the prefecture. Taste it at Ikkaku, open since 1952, just a short walk from Marugame Station.
Kagawa’s coastline between Shikoku and Honshu is known as the “fish tank” due to its year-round variety of fresh seafood. Hamachi, or Japanese amberjack, is particularly loved and often enjoyed on rice as hamachi-don, a local favorite in Takamatsu.
Takamatsu’s lively central arcades and entertainment district are filled with dining establishments – try the hearty Ofukuro (“Mom’s home cooking”) on Tokiwa Shinmachi shopping street for local delights. Explore the daily specials displayed behind the main counter and choose what appeals to you.
Shōdo-shima, among the many Inland Sea islands in the prefecture, is renowned for its production of soy sauce and olives. Popular olive-influenced dishes include “olive pork” and “olive beef,” made from stock raised on an olive-enriched feed mix.
Walk Shikoku’s Northern Coast
The northern coast of Shikoku, separated from the rest of the island by a mountain range, features some fascinating landscapes. North of the mountains are plains dotted with countless tame-ike (water-collection ponds), which were essential for agricultural production in centuries past.
Surprisingly, the northern coast is mountainous. Goshikidai, west of Takamatsu city, is an extensive lava plateau renowned for its picturesque scenery. The table-top plateau of Yashima, impossible to miss to the city’s east, was the site of a decisive battle in the Genpei Wars (1180–1185) between the Taira and Minamoto clans.
Kagawa even has its own version of Mt Fuji—422m (1385ft) Iino-yama, known as Sanuki-Fuji for its resemblance to Japan’s highest mountain. The trail offers a 2- to 3-hour return hike, attracting locals who come for daily exercise and fresh air.
Prefectural boundaries stretch into the Inland Sea between Shikoku and Honshu, all part of Setonaikai National Park, Japan’s first national park designated in 1934. Kagawa’s islands, including Naoshima, Teshima, and Shōdo-shima, are all encompassed within the park.
While Naoshima is well-established on visitor itineraries as “art island,” those wishing to explore less-visited isles will find art installations on Teshima and the mountainous Shōdo-shima, known for its olive groves and Kanka-kei Gorge, another excellent spot for a great day hike.
Shikoku is on our 2022 Best of Travel list. For more stories from some of the world’s most exciting destinations click here.
Safety recommendations and restrictions during a pandemic can change rapidly. Always check with local authorities for up-to-date guidance before traveling during Covid-19.
This article was first published May 22, 2019, and updated Jan 10, 2022.
