Deep in the rugged mountain ranges of Wakayama and Nara prefectures, the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range comprise three main areas: Kumano Sanzan, Koyasan, and Yoshino-Omine. Two of these, the majestic temple complex of Koyasan and the sacred mountain of Yoshino, offer a journey to a lush, misty, mystical part of the world steeped in history and culture.
These areas are profoundly spiritual, providing the perfect path for anyone seeking to escape the stresses of modern life and reconnect with nature and themselves. Moreover, each season showcases stunning vistas: fiery oranges and reds in autumn, clouds of pink and white cherry blossoms in spring, a peaceful veil of powder-white snow in winter, and vibrant greens in summer. Regardless of the season, a pilgrimage serves as a tranquil time for contemplation.
The intriguing world of Japanese religion spans Shintoism, Buddhism, and folk animism, with an inherent reverence for nature, particularly for mountaintops that are perceived as closer to the divine. Shinto shrines feature iconic torii gates and Chozu hand washing stations, while Buddhist temples are known for incense-burning practices intended for healing. With this four-day itinerary, you can explore plenty of both, gaining insights into various Japanese religious beliefs.
Day 1: Choishi-michi pilgrimage and shukubo temple stay
In northwest Wakayama prefecture, Koyasan rises approximately 2,600 feet above sea level and is regarded as one of the world’s most sacred mountains and a spiritual center of Japan. In 816 AD, monk Kukai, posthumously known as Kōbō Daishi Kukai (‘the Grand Master’), established a temple complex on the Koyasan plateau, which became the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism. For centuries, monks have traveled here for training; visitors to Koyasan have the opportunity to connect deeply with nature and spirituality, recharging both minds and souls in this tranquil setting.
Koyasan can be reached via cable car; however, following the Koyasan Choishi-Michi trail—an ancient path traversed by pilgrims for over 1,200 years—is a magical way to approach the temple complex. The forested trail spans around 13 miles and is rich in Buddhist tradition, marked by 180 stone signposts known as choishi. Each choishi has five tiers, representing the elements of the Buddhist universe: fire, earth, water, wind, and void. Approximately 80% of these markers still standing were constructed during Japan’s Kamakura period (1185-1333).
The Choishi-Michi takes about 7 hours to complete, making it crucial to start early. Aim to arrive at Kudoyama station around 9 AM in order to check in at a shukubo (temple lodging) by 5 PM when dinner is typically served. The journey from Namba station in Osaka takes about 45 minutes to Hashimoto station (via the Nankai Limited Express), followed by around 10 minutes from Hashimoto to Kudoyama station (Nankai-Koya Line), where the pilgrimage begins. It’s advisable to wear hiking boots or good sneakers if the ground is dry, and remember to bring a raincoat along with sufficient food and drinks, as there are no stores along the trail.
About a mile from Kudoyama station, Jison-in Temple marks the official entrance of the trail and is a temple dedicated to women’s health. Approximately 4 miles from Jison-in Temple lies the majestic Niutsuhime-jinja Shrine, established over 1,700 years ago. This shrine features a main shrine, torii gates, a beautiful pond, a majestic tower gate, and a domed crimson bridge. The main shrine exemplifies Kasuga-zukuri Shinto architecture, consisting of four linked halls topped with gabled roofs. Here, the deities Kariba Myojin and Niu Myojin are enshrined, making this an exceptionally significant part of the pilgrimage.
Around 1.2 miles further along the track, two stone torii gates, Futatsu-torii (meaning ‘two’ in Japanese), stand amidst the picturesque backdrop of Choishi-Michi. It is believed these were built by Kōbō Daishi Kukai for the deities.
Yadate, located about 4 miles further down the trail, signifies the trek’s two-thirds mark. This area also hosts vending machines for drinks and a teahouse selling yakimochi (grilled rice cakes), which is a regional specialty.
The steep final 4 miles reward hikers with the symbolic entrance to Koyasan: the towering 25-meter-tall Daimon Gate. Originally built in the 11th century, this gate features three passageways flanked by two fierce guardian deities. The site provides sweeping views of the valley along with stunning sunset vistas, highlighted by the sun illuminating the layers of mountaintops, making it one of Japan’s most sought-after sunset spots.
Spending the night in a shukubo offers an immersive experience in Koyasan, with around 50 options available, each differing slightly in facilities and offerings. Shared experiences include opportunities for meditation, sutra teachings, and sutra calligraphy practice. Expect a glimpse into monastic life while enjoying a deeply calming and reflective experience. The simple lodgings feature tatami floors, sliding fusuma doors, and futon beds. Meals served are shojin ryori (a colorful array of vegetarian Buddhist cuisine) made with ingredients like goma-tofu (sesame tofu), yuba (tofu skin), and seasonal vegetables. Prices range from ¥9,000 to ¥15,000 ($85-$140 USD) for one night, including dinner and breakfast, with most offering relaxing public baths. Reservations are necessary, and some facilities accept credit cards.
Day 2: Immerse yourself in the tranquility of Koyasan, the spiritual heart of Japan
Rise early for the temple’s morning prayers (typically around 6:00 AM), where the harmonious, hypnotic chants of the Buddhist monks allow for a spiritual reset. Following this, a temple breakfast featuring vegetarian cuisine provides essential nourishment for your upcoming exploration. While there is much to see in Koyasan, three must-visit attractions include Okuno-in, Danjō Garan Sacred Temple Complex, and Kongobu-ji Head Temple.
First, visit the Okuno-in, a 1.2-mile path lined with graves that stretches from Ichinohashi bridge to the wooden mausoleum where Kōbō Daishi Kukai is said to be in eternal meditation, a belief central to the Shingon Buddhism sect. Walking along this path offers an ethereal journey through towering cedar trees—some over 500 years old—and moss-covered graves, the final resting place of more than 200,000 souls, including historically and religiously significant figures. Dappled sunlight filters through the forest canopy, or komorebi in Japanese. Near the mausoleum, Todoro Hall, or the ‘Hall of Lanterns,’ adorned with hundreds of hanging lanterns, serves as a worship hall for Okuno-in.
Among the first structures built by Kōbō Daishi Kukai, the Danjō Garan Sacred Temple Complex is considered the very heart of Koyasan. According to legend, while studying Buddhism in China, Kōbō Daishi Kukai threw his sankosho (a Buddhist ceremonial tool) back toward Japan. Upon searching for a location to practice asceticism, he found his tool lodged in a pine tree on Koyasan, leading him to establish the temple complex. It is said the pine tree remains standing within the Danjō Garan area today.
This temple complex includes three significant features: the ceremonial hall, Kondō Hall, which enshrines the Buddha of medicine and healing, the bright vermillion Konpon Daito, standing at 165 feet tall, both of which were planned and constructed under Kōbō Daishi Kukai’s direction through his nephew Shinzen. The atmosphere around the bells in the Danjō Garan temple complex resonates with peace and reverence, filling the surroundings with a unique tranquility.
Within a short walking distance from Danjō Garan lies Kongōbu-ji Temple, the administrative center of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism. In addition to its substantial religious significance, this temple boasts the mesmerizing Banryutei Rock Garden, recognized as the largest in Japan, covering an expansive area of over 21,000 square feet. Visitors can explore the three main buildings while observing exquisitely painted fusuma (sliding doors), detailed woodwork, and traditional furnishings.
To journey back to Osaka, take the cable car from Koyasan Station to Gokurakubashi station. This exhilarating five-minute ride down the scenic hillside offers spectacular views. From Gokurakubashi station, utilize the Nankai-Limited Express, which travels directly to Shin-Imamiya station in Osaka, estimated to take around 1.5 hours (costing ¥2,180, approximately $21 USD).
Day 3: Yoshino
Together with Koyasan, Mount Yoshino in Nara prefecture constitutes one of the three locations recognized as UNESCO-listed Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range. Travelling from Osaka Abenobashi station to Yoshino takes just under two hours on the Osaka-Kintetsu line.
Begin your day in Yoshino by visiting the grandeur of Kinpusen-ji Temple, located about a 35-minute walk from Yoshino station. Kinpusen-ji Temple is regarded as one of the most significant temples for Shugendo, an ancient Japanese religion that intertwines Shintoism, Buddhism, and other historical Japanese mountain beliefs. The surrounding lush mountain scenery, often enveloped in mist, adds to the sacred and mystical atmosphere.
Two main features of Kinpusen-ji Temple are Zao-do Hall and Niomon gate, both linked to the pilgrimage route between Kumano in Wakayama and Mount Yoshino. Zao-do faces south, graciously welcoming pilgrims from Kumano while Niomon looks north, bidding them farewell. Zao-do, an enormous wooden structure, stands at 112 feet tall and 118 feet wide, adorned with intricate carvings that enhance its elegance. Legend has it that En-no-Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo, prayed for the appearance of Buddha at Kinpusen-ji Temple when the blue-skinned deity Zao Gongen manifested as an apparition. At certain times of the year, entrance is allowed to view the 1,300-year-old, three-bodied statue of Zao Gongen.
Yoshino also presents numerous captivating features, including a charming main street filled with shops and cafes, along with the traditional Japanese garden, Chikurin-in Gunpoen, designed by the acclaimed tea master, Sen-no-Rikyu. If time permits, make your way to the Hanayagura Observatory atop Mount Yoshino, renowned for its stunning views, particularly during spring and autumn. The mountain hosts over 30,000 cherry trees, marking it as one of Japan’s premier locations for hanami (cherry blossom viewing).
To return to Osaka, ride the Kintetsu Minami Osaka Line to Osaka-Abenobashi Station; the last train departs around 10 PM. Alternatively, you may choose to stay overnight at Ryokan Kato in Yoshino and visit Murouji Temple the following morning (roughly 2 hours and 15 minutes away, with fares starting from ¥1,310 or about $12 USD).
Day 4: Murouji Temple and an art forest
Unlike Koyasan, which historically prohibited women from visiting until 1905, Murouji Temple has always welcomed them, earning its nickname as the ‘Koyasan for women’. The journey to Murouji Temple from Tsuruhashi Station in Osaka takes about one hour on the Kintetsu-Osaka Line, followed by a 15-minute bus ride from Muroguchiono station (total cost ¥1,340, approximately $12.75 USD).
The remarkable Murouji Temple complex, established during the 8th century, lies at the foot of Mount Murou, a site of reverence since ancient times. Surrounded by enormous cedar trees, a 52-foot tall wooden tower stands as the second-oldest five-storied pagoda in Japan, while the main hall, Kondo Hall, is located atop a long stone stairway through the forest, framed by vibrant greenery in spring and summer and radiant reds and oranges in autumn.
Following your visit to Murouji Temple, a brief 20-minute walk will take you to the Murou Art Forest, concluding an enlightening few days dedicated to enriching your spirit in yet another manner. This art forest, approximately half a mile in length, was initiated by local sculptor Inoue Fukichi in 1997 and completed in 2006 by renowned Israeli artist Dani Karavan. The grand modern installations have been crafted to harmonize beautifully with the natural landscape, featuring elements such as the Tower of the Sun, a 26-foot-tall steel sundial. The expansive, tranquil grounds provide ample opportunities for birdwatching, picnicking, and contemplation.
For the return to Osaka, head back to the Murouji bus stop and catch the bus to the Murouguchionoeki stop. From Muroguchino station, take the Kintetsu-Osaka Line Express to Tsuruhashi Station, a journey that takes roughly one hour (costing ¥900, or $8.50 USD). Alternatively, you could return to Sakurai and dedicate the next day to further exploring the historic town, including a visit to the revered Ohmiwa Jinja Shrine, one of the oldest in Japan.
Note: COVID-19 measures are in effect throughout Nara and Wakayama, including increased ventilation, temperature checks, and limits on the number of guests at temples and other sites. Additionally, hand sanitizer stations and face masks are present for everyone’s safety. When the time is right for your travels, rest assured that your visit here will be as secure as possible.
