The Majestic Bergen Line: A Journey Through Norway’s Stunning Landscape

Exploring Hardangervidda

We’re somewhere on the Hardangervidda plateau, one of the world’s highest railway stretches, and it appears we have stopped. I say this with some uncertainty, as we find ourselves in the midst of a white-out.

Having just departed from Norway’s highest train station, the Oslo to Bergen train may or may not be continuing its astonishing journey across a dauntingly inhospitable landscape. By the time I arrived, I was in awe that this railway exists at all.

Norwegian Engineering Marvel

Norwegians, as visitors quickly discover, do not hesitate when it comes to traversing their remarkable terrain. Mountains composed of seemingly impenetrable gneiss rock are effortlessly navigated. In any other part of the world, the Bergensbanen, or Bergen Line, would be celebrated as a wonder of engineering. Here, however, it serves as a vital link between the nation’s two most significant cities.

Nonetheless, it truly is a wondrous creation. And, unlike many attractions in Norway, it can be experienced on a relatively modest budget.

My Experience on the Bergensbanen

I had long desired to ride the Bergensbanen since taking a train from London to Oslo years ago. That journey involved a night spent on a bench in Brussels Midi station, which provided ample time to contemplate alternatives to the lengthy trip, which included the now-defunct Newcastle to Bergen sea route.

Had I chosen that route, I would have traveled on the Bergensbanen to Oslo following a long sea crossing. Although I might have missed that opportunity, I was determined not to pass up the chance to travel over the mountains the next time.

Journey Overview

The Bergensbanen spans 308 miles, taking six and a half hours to cross some of Europe’s most formidable terrain. Built between 1875 and 1909, constructing this line was no easy feat, as it climbs to 1200 meters.

Over 180 tunnels had to be carved through gneiss, winter storms had to be navigated, and funding for what initially seemed an impossible task was difficult to secure. Yet, the engineers and workers on this project persevered, and for that, we are fortunate.

Experiencing Oslo in November is a delight, as the city is adorned in autumn colors. The cool air encourages everyone to dress warmly, with some children appearing angelic in their snow suits. Under the crisp sunshine, the city’s main attractions shine spectacularly, from the impressive Oslo Opera House to the captivating museums of Bygdøy. It’s an ideal setting for a train adventure.

The common complaint regarding Oslo is its high costs, particularly for dining and drinking out. However, grabbing a quick bite from 7-11 stores, which offer delicious hot sausages, can be a budget-friendly option.

The Train Ride Begins

For approximately the same cost as a pizza and a beer (Nkr299), you can acquire a mini-price one-way ticket on the morning train to Bergen. I boarded one Thursday morning as it left Oslo at 8:11 am, winding through the capital’s commuter zone to Drammen, the first major stop. From this point, the train dives into the wild landscape.

The train follows meandering valleys and rivers, which gradually gain breadth and become more tempestuous. As mountains began to rise on the horizon, I discovered the art of swapping sides to catch the best views when the train was quiet.

Climbing to New Heights

Despite leaving Oslo in radiant sunshine, alpine conditions soon dominated. As we ascended, the train displays and station signs proudly indicated the rising altitude, with the snow accumulating on the ground.

By the time we reached Finse, the line’s highest station at 1222 meters—244 meters above England’s highest point—we were enveloped in a snowy wonderland. The railway climbs to 1237 meters, offering expansive views across the snowy plateau for miles.

Transitioning Environments

Once we crested the peak and began descending, the environmental change was astonishing. Myrdal, located on Norway’s maritime coast, presented a milder, damper climate compared to the previous starkness. From here, the Flåmsbana, the line’s only branch, connects to Flåm.

This locale features several stations without road access. Those fortunate enough to partake in the Norway in a Nutshell tour transfer here for a subsequent train, followed by a combination of boat and bus to Bergen. Personally, with the stunning waterfalls, lush forests, and dramatic fjords, I felt a twinge of sadness not to travel further.

Conclusion

The journey concluded in Bergen, where the weather was wet and cold, creating the perfect ambiance to find a cozy bar and settle in for the evening. In Norway, it’s essential to enjoy what you can without overstaying your welcome wherever it may cost you, yet I certainly made the most of my time.

The Bergen Line stands out as a journey that will be etched in my memory. If you haven’t experienced it, you cannot confidently assert it is not the world’s most beautiful train ride. With Norway’s expansive railway network, one journey indeed leads to another.

Travel Tips for the Bergen Line

Ticket Purchasing

Tickets can be acquired up to 90 days in advance from the Vy website, Norway’s primary train operator. Tickets often sell out ahead of time, notably during holidays, so planning in advance is wise. Tickets can also be purchased at Oslo S (Central Station) or Bergen Station from vending machines or ticket booths.

How to Obtain Minipris Tickets

Minipris tickets are discounted fares available for purchase in advance, although they tend to sell out quickly. The Vy website now prioritizes the cheapest ticket options on its fares page, allowing you to easily identify any available discounts.

Ticket Costs

Ticket prices range from approximately Nkr300 during off-peak seasons to Nkr1000 during peak times.

Train Frequency

Three trains operate daily from Oslo S to Bergen, typically departing around 8:30 am, midday, and 3:45 pm. Conversely, four trains run from Bergen to Oslo S each day, leaving around 8 am, midday, 4 pm, and 11 pm. For the latest train schedules, check the Vy website.

Best Side for Views

A common query! Both sides of the train present spectacular views, and regardless of your seat, you won’t feel deprived. Nevertheless, traveling from Oslo to Bergen is generally believed to offer superior views from the left side of the train (facing south), although debates regarding this persist.

Final Thoughts

Experiencing the Bergen Line is a remarkable adventure that showcases Norway’s unique landscapes and transportation ingenuity. Travel enthusiasts and nature lovers alike will find this journey unforgettable.

This article was originally published in November 2010 and has been updated for accuracy and relevance.