Geothermal wonders and stunning landscapes have drawn visitors to Yellowstone National Park for almost 150 years, but there’s never been a better time to discover how the park turns into a wildlife wonderland during the winter.
Among the sparkling, crystalline snow, the world may appear to be still; however, for those who know how to listen, life is clearly thriving in Yellowstone. Alarm calls from crows resonate from tree to tree, notifying other birds when foxes are hunting nearby. As if running from the cold, a hidden river gurgles beneath solid sheets of ice.
Then, a lone howl pierces the crisp, frigid air, its melancholy drone echoing through the valley until a chorus of responses transforms silence into symphony. There are wolves nearby. And the birds aren’t the only ones with a lot to say.
Editor’s note: during COVID-19, there are restrictions on travel, and some areas are under lockdown. Check the latest guidance before departure, and always follow local health advice.
Historic Wolf Reintroduction
There is almost nowhere in the US where wolves can be spotted in the wild. Before colonization, America was a nation of wolves. At their peak, there were up to 500,000 of these apex predators living in balance with the other creatures of the land (humans included). They lived in every corner of North America, besides present-day California’s coast. However, by the 1960s, systematic killing reduced the lower 48 states’ wolf population to only 300. Myths of the wolf’s treachery fueled bounty hunters and vengeful ranchers, and the hatred these stories fostered ultimately made wolf conservation a political challenge.
However, in 1995, grassroots efforts won out, and 31 Canadian gray wolves were brought to Yellowstone in an attempt to reintroduce the species to its historic habitat. This resulted in what is likely the world’s most famous wildlife reintroduction. A video describing how the reappearance of wolves in Yellowstone after a 70-year absence changed its rivers went viral in 2014, and consequently, public opinion shifted to recognize the importance and the fragility of this ecological paradise.
Yellowstone National Park is known for its prismatic pools and gushing geysers, incredible natural sights that not only inspired the creation of the National Parks System, but also attract more than four million visitors every year. Official statistics show that 91 percent of those people visit between May and September, leaving the park virtually empty during the other months, particularly in the heart of winter.
Winter, however, is when Yellowstone is at its best – particularly for wildlife lovers. It isn’t just the lack of people, although that’s always a bonus when visiting any outdoor space. “It’s really breathtaking, to begin with,” says Nathan Varley, one half of a husband-and-wife team guiding wildlife-watching excursions in the park through their business, Yellowstone Wolf Tracker. “It is kind of a winter wonderland, with big downy flakes of snow or crystalline frost that sparkles in the air.”
Varley and his wife, Linda Thurston, joined the wolf reintroduction effort in 1996. Today, their expertise on wolves and other animals sharing the ecosystem helps them consistently sell out their popular Winter Wolf Retreats. Attendees soon learn that even though the vast majority of visitors see Yellowstone in its summer clothes, the winter wildlife watchers are the ones reaping the benefits.
Watching Wildlife Against the Snow
The Rocky Mountain weather may deter some, but it’s a significant factor in why animal watching is so fruitful in the winter.
“Wildlife is easily spotted against the white snow background,” says zoologist and writer Cristina Garcia of Travel For Wildlife in her Yellowstone winter gear guide. Similarly, the snow drives bison, elk, and other grazing animals away from the high peaks, forcing them to congregate in the valley bottoms.
“In Yellowstone, the roads follow the valley bottoms, so there’s great access to the wildlife,” adds Varley.
This means the average visitor to Yellowstone during the winter potentially won’t even need to leave their car’s vicinity to see a wild wolf and other critters. They are shy animals, rightfully wary of coming close to people, so most encounters will be from a distance. However, it’s still a remarkable experience to see the ancient beauty of America firsthand.
Moreover, it’s the most interesting time to observe wolves. “They do a lot of howling in winter due to their social dynamics, traveling around as a big pack, making kills more often,” says Varley. Consequently, wolves are more concentrated in viewable, drivable areas, and they are much more active. “Additionally, the breeding season happens in mid-winter—from the end of January through February—and that brings extra drama to wolf watching.”
A Vibrant Yellowstone Ecosystem
It’s not only wolves making Yellowstone a wildlife hotspot: a wide range of species call Yellowstone home. Together, they create the largest concentration of mammals in the lower 48 states. There are silent mountain lions, playful river otters, fluffy coyotes, moose, Canada lynxes, pronghorn, red foxes, and more.
Bison, in particular, draw the attention of photographers.
“The bison herds are persevering, transformed into these abominable snowmen where the snow sticks to their backs,” Varley says. However, it’s the wolf sightings that evoke emotional responses, and it’s the wolves – the “pinnacle animal,” as he calls them – bringing in significant economic benefits.
Wolves are estimated to be worth between $70 and $100 million to the local economy, Varley states. This amount is in addition to the revenue generated from the overall tourism industry. “This is just the ones where we were able to identify wolves as being the significant factor in the decision to come to Yellowstone,” he says.
Scoping Things Out: How to Spot a Wolf
When the snow comes, Yellowstone as a business essentially shuts down, but life does not: bears are pretty much the only ones opting out of participating in winter activities. The weather closes a majority of the park, leaving only the north entrance from Gardiner, Montana, open.
The only open road goes from Gardiner to Mammoth Hot Springs, then past Tower Junction and onto the Northeast entrance, which is only an exit in winter. This may seem limiting; however, it’s all a winter wolf-watcher needs: this is the road that goes right through the Lamar Valley, one of the top wolf-watching locations on the planet, and easily the most accessible.
If you go looking for wolves, bring a spotting scope or binoculars, plenty of patience, and warm clothes – necessary to withstand what can be long waiting periods. Temperatures frequently dip below zero during the daytime, but early morning (between 6 a.m. and 11 a.m.) is the best time to spot most Yellowstone animals, so prepare for even colder conditions.
Guides like Varley and Thurston can be hired along with their spotting equipment, as well as access to the network of professional conservationists, who communicate with one another regarding confirmed wildlife sightings.
Know the Odds of Animal Sightings
Wildlife spotting is notoriously challenging; however, the odds are favorable in Yellowstone during winter. With so many species leaving the planet permanently, the US is fortunate to house a haven like Yellowstone National Park, where the animals not only thrive but also congregate near a single road for months on end.
There’s never a guarantee of seeing anything. Nonetheless, once in Yellowstone, there is no way to escape the call of the wild.
Updated November 2020.
This article was first published on Sep 13, 2019, and updated on Nov 23, 2020.
