Life on The Great Blasket Island
In June, city dwellers Annie Birney and Eoin Boyle swapped their lives in Dublin to work as guesthouse caretakers on The Great Blasket Island – the most westerly point in Europe. It’s a remote island with no electricity, TV, or Wi-Fi, but it boasts some of the best sunrises and sunsets in Ireland. Selected from a pool of more than 24,000 applicants from all over the world, winning the role has been a dream come true for them. However, this experience has come with its challenges.
“The sun is splitting the rocks here. It’s just heaven on earth when the sun is shining and the sea is calm,” says Annie. “We have the shepherds on the island today so we’re just making them a little cup of tea. They’ve had a hard day of bringing in sheep from the back of the island.”
This snapshot of island life is as idyllic as it sounds. It’s been three months since Annie moved to The Great Blasket with her partner Eoin, after they applied last year to become caretakers of the island’s coffee shop and three guest houses during 2020’s tourist season. However, it’s yet to sink in that they’re actually here. Each time she looks out of the window of their cottage, Annie says she’s blown away by the beauty of the place. “There’s something about the way the mountains drop off into the sea,” she muses. “And when the sun is out, the colors of the island are so bright and beautiful. It’s so spectacular.”
Last year, the family-run company who oversees the island advertised for a couple to live there and manage its coffee shop and guesthouses. The post received massive publicity. More than 24,000 people applied after seeing images from the social media accounts of 2019’s caretaker, Lesley Kehoe, who documented her time on the island with her partner Gordon Bond. However, applying was like “throwing a needle into a haystack,” for Annie and Eoin, who felt like they had a slim chance of getting through. Neither of them have a background in hospitality but their passion and interest was enough to land them the role.
Growing up, the Blasket Islands just off the coast of Kerry loomed large in Annie’s life. Her parents had nurtured her love for the west of Ireland by taking the family on summer campervan trips along the coast. Her father gave her a copy of An t‑Oileánach (The Islandman) by Tomas O’Crohan when she was young, a book that depicts life on the remote, Irish-speaking island before its last permanent inhabitants left in 1953. For Eoin, who leads an outdoor lifestyle, the biodiversity of the island was too compelling to resist. Prior to their move, he taught individuals about wildlife and nature in schools. Therefore, when the job advertisement emerged, they felt compelled to apply. “Never in our wildest dreams did we think we’d be lucky enough to be living here. It’s that once-in-a-lifetime experience.”
Life on the island was scheduled to begin for them at the end of March; however, just as they handed in their notices at work and informed their landlord of their move, businesses in Ireland began to close as the country entered partial lockdown. Consequently, what was supposed to be a six-month stint has turned into a three-month one. “At that stage in March, everything was up in the air,” states Annie. “For a while, we thought the dream was gone. However, I think that makes every day that little bit special down here. You appreciate it more.”
They arrived on the island on June 23, shortly before the first guests began to arrive. With a quick turnaround, they had to immerse themselves in work immediately; preparing the holiday homes for guests who typically arrive at 2pm after the previous tenants check out at 10am. “We didn’t have a background in turning around houses or cleaning them to a certain standard during a pandemic,” Annie explains. However, both their mothers provided invaluable tips and tricks. This fulfilling work allows them to see immediate results. Checking guests into a clean and cozy home is rewarding, enabling them to help visitors truly enjoy the island experience.
Between 9am and 3pm, Annie and Eoin busily clean the guest houses, monitor the coffee shop, brew coffee on the gas burner, and welcome incoming guests. Afterward, they often assist new arrivals with lighting their fires or exploring the island. The evenings are then theirs to spend swimming in the sea or walking around the 6km by 1.2km island. Despite its compact size, Annie reveals that the island is diverse, providing continuously surprising aspects. “You never take the same walk twice. Depending on the time of year and the time of day, the way the light hits the island varies. You never get sick of wandering around.”
Living off-grid fills their days quickly as they constantly keep an eye on the daylight. Without electricity, the couple must complete household chores before sunset. “You never want to do your washing up after dinner by candlelight,” says Annie. Clothes and bed linens are transported off the island for cleaning by its managers Alice Hayes and Billy O’Connor, who sail from the mainland every few days to collect laundry and deliver food items. “Sometimes it’s a challenge to live here, even though we have so much done for us,” explains Annie. “We have tremendous respect for those who lived here throughout their lives and raised families, providing for everyone and keeping them healthy.”
As their time on the island comes to an end, Annie and Eoin contemplate their next life stage, with a desire to continue living in the countryside. Their plan is to move to the west of Ireland, depending on job availability, while embracing the valuable lessons learned from their remote existence. These lessons resonate with anyone who has experienced lockdown. “You start thinking in a different way out here. You learn good problem-solving skills since you can’t run to the shops, compelling you to fix what you have or find good alternatives,” Annie explains. “I’ve changed my perspective. When I see an object, I consider several potential uses for it.”
“You reprioritize. You discover what you truly miss. You’d be surprised at the elements that become important and those you do not miss, and what you’re willing to sacrifice if it means waking up to a stunning view or seeing the stars at night.”
