Fans of Taylor Swift were delighted last week when the pop star released her surprise new album, Folklore. The record was accompanied by a photo shoot, styled by Swift herself, featuring the singer posing in a turtleneck Aran-style sweater. The classic knit has long been established as a fashion icon, but it originates from a cluster of islands off the wind-battered west coast of .
The three – Inishmore (the largest of the three, which translates as “big island”), Inishmaan, and – lie at the mouth of , and offer visitors the most Irish of Irish experiences: lush green fields, breathtaking cliffs, prehistoric churches, and the occasional traditional music session.
Aran Sweaters: A Symbol of Craftsmanship
Early Celtic islanders are thought to have inspired the intricate designs commonly seen in Aran sweaters. Legend has it that each of these stitches has its own special meaning: the cable stitch, for example, is believed to bring luck, while the diamond represents success, and the moss stitch is said to symbolize nature and growth.
Historians still debate when the Aran sweater was first created, although islanders began selling them to shops on the mainland in the early 1900s. Originally designed to protect the island’s fishers and farmers, these sweaters were crafted to keep them warm as they braved the crashing waves.
The image of a fisherman snug in his Aran sweater sailing his traditional currach boat off the craggy coastline may evoke a picturesque scene from a storybook; however, the reality is a bit less cozy and more pungent.
Traditionally, Aran sweaters were made from thick, undyed sheep’s wool, which was unscoured to retain its natural oil, lanolin. This characteristic ensures the sweater is water-repellent and remains warm even when wet – a necessary feature in the unpredictable Irish weather. Moreover, knitting these sweaters required minimal equipment, allowing skills to be passed down through generations.
In 1934, Robert Flaherty’s documentary Man of Aran brought global attention to the islands. By mid-century, the Aran sweater had attracted a starry fanbase, worn by luminaries such as Grace Kelly, Steve McQueen, and Marilyn Monroe. Today, Aran-style knitwear continues to be a regular feature on modern runways, having even gone viral thanks to an appearance on actor Chris Evans in the hit film Knives Out.
The Aran Islands now host a population of around 1200 residents, most of whom are Irish speakers, as these islands are recognized as an official Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking region). The islands are busier during the summer months when tourists and day-trippers arrive to explore their rugged landscape and unique heritage by foot or bicycle.
While fewer sheep remain on the islands now, many commercially sold Aran sweaters are machine-knit, whereas handmade versions are rarer and more valuable. It takes up to 60 hours to complete a classic Aran sweater. Nonetheless, these sweaters are regarded as a national treasure and a worldwide symbol of Ireland, showcasing the country’s rich tradition of craftsmanship.
Hand-knitted sweaters are still created on the islands, though the waxy lanolin is often washed out, and the coarse wool has started to be mixed with cashmere, alpaca, and merino for a softer finish.
Discovering Inishmore
Inishmore is home to the only town, Kilronan, and boasts a wealth of striking ruins, including the beautifully preserved fort, perched atop a 100m cliff, and (the Seven Churches), which actually comprises two churches along with several monastic dwellings. Inishmore is also renowned for its sandy beaches and stunning views of the , as well as , an annual celebration dedicated to the beloved TV show Father Ted.
Inishmaan: A Tranquil Retreat
Inishmaan, the central island of the three, is the least densely populated and remains quiet during the tourist season. It served as a retreat for the Irish writer JM Synge, who famously captured the essence of the islands and their renowned sweater in his play Riders to the Sea. Among the most visited historical sites on the island is a cairn known as , named in his honor. In addition to the ancient ruins, Inishmaan has become a rising hotspot for divers.
Inisheer: A Musical Haven
Inisheer is the smallest island, measuring just 1.8 miles by 1.8 miles (3km by 3km). Traditional music is a vital part of its cultural fabric. Visitors are not only drawn to local trad sessions in pubs but are also enchanted by the island’s 10th-century “”, the rusted , and over 1200 miles (2000km) of captivating dry stone walls that illustrate the islands’ rich history.
Getting There
Ferries to the Aran Islands depart from in , with shuttle buses available from . Tickets must be arranged in advance to comply with regulations.
