When a 55-year-old mother of three named Esther Morris boarded a train on the brand new transcontinental railway in Peru, Illinois, she was on her way to join her husband and eldest son in a tiny yet booming mining town. Little did she know that this trip would fundamentally alter her life and establish her as a historic figure in the USA as the first female Justice of the Peace.
From the grim appearance of the train platform in Rock Springs, Wyoming, circa 1869, there was little indication that a year later Morris would become the first woman to hold public office in the US, ultimately becoming an icon of women’s suffrage. One and a half centuries later, Wyoming still commemorates these remarkable events reflected in its “Equality State” moniker.
Over the past 150 years, Wyoming has transformed from a rocky territory driven by gold mining hopefuls into an attractive outdoor destination filled with charming small towns and cities that continue to attract change-makers and free spirits. Moreover, there is no better time than the present to celebrate Wyoming’s girl-power legacy by exploring its best sites, sounds, trails, and flavors on a women’s history road trip.
In the footsteps of history-making women
This itinerary takes you from Cheyenne, Wyoming, just north of Denver, Colorado. It leads you through the vibrant college town of Laramie, the underrated Medicine Bow wilderness, and arrives at South Pass City, where Esther Morris made history. Subsequently, journey on to the breathtaking Tetons and the iconic mountain town of Jackson Hole, onto Buffalo, where Annie Oakley showcased her skills, and finally down to Casper, known for its ski slopes, museums, and vibrant nightlife.
Along the way, you will be following in the footsteps of courageous female travelers like Isabella Bird and Sacagawea. Furthermore, you can enjoy dining and accommodations at establishments pioneered by female entrepreneurs while experiencing a state that offers so much more than just Yellowstone National Park.
Begin your journey by flying into Denver International Airport, which is only ninety minutes south of Cheyenne, or directly into Cheyenne’s recently updated airport. Alternatively, you could rent a car and prepare for your adventure. If you need to stock up on gear before hitting the road, consider placing an order with Jackson-based Garage Grown Gear, an online outfitter showcasing startup and cottage-scale outdoor brands you may not have encountered yet.
Overall, depending on what side trips and hikes you plan to include, this road trip should take approximately one week to complete and covers just over 1,000 miles.
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Victorian traveler Isabella Bird, who captivated readers with her stories of riding horseback through the Rocky Mountains, might as well have been channeling future country sensation Shania Twain she described Cheyenne after her visit in 1873 – it did not impress her much.
Back then, Wyoming was not yet a state, and Cheyenne was merely a rough railroad siding. However, by the 1880s, the discovery of gold in the Black Hills transformed Cheyenne into a wealthy hub, leading to its development into a charming town characterized by whimsical public art projects featuring decorated cowboy boots and historic trolleys for transportation.
Esther Morris herself retired here after spending a good portion of her life advocating for women’s suffrage on a national scale. In a way, her journey came full circle – it was the lawmakers in Cheyenne who initiated the chain of events that culminated in Morris’ historic appointment in South Pass City.
What to see
The Esther Hobart Morris statue at the beautifully renovated state capitol building is a must-visit to honor the first female Justice of the Peace in the USA.
The Frontier Days museum recreates the old west and early rodeo culture, showcasing historic artifacts like authentic stagecoaches and vehicles that women like Isabella Bird and Esther Morris would have utilized during their travels.
The Cowgirl of the West Museum is dedicated entirely to women who worked and rode through the wild west, from rodeo queens to hard-working ranchers who consistently broke barriers. You can learn about the thrilling lives of trick riders such as Eloise Fox Hastings, who ran away at fourteen to join the circuit, or Tad Lucas, who performed in rodeos during both World Wars in shows ranging from Wyoming to London’s Wembley Stadium. (Note: the Cowgirl of the West Museum is currently closed until May 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic.)
Where to stay:
Overnight at the Little America Hotel & Resort, a family-friendly establishment featuring amenities such as a pool, golf course, playground, and outdoor hot tub.
Where to eat:
Enjoy some quality coffee at the Paramount Cafe (located in an old movie theater), prior to embarking on your explorations.
Esther’s at the Morris House is a restaurant situated in Morris’ final home, where she spent her retirement after supporting organizations such as the National American Woman Suffrage Association. It’s a part of the popular Bella Fuoco Wood Fired Pizza just across Warren Avenue.
Laramie and Centennial
A one-hour drive on I-80 west from Cheyenne will take you to Laramie, where in 1870 Louisa Swain cast her ballot in a general election alongside nearly a hundred other women – the first time women exercised their new right to vote. That same year, other women like Eliza Stewart, Mary Mackle, Annie Monaghan, Amelia Hatcher, Jane Hilton, and Sarah Pease became the first women globally to serve on a jury, many remaining active in politics thereafter.
However, Laramie offers much more than just its feminist history. This college town is rich with opportunities for outdoor recreation due to its close proximity to the Snowy Range and Medicine Bow Wilderness, along with climbing areas including the granite cliffs of Vedauwoo and extensive mountain bike trail networks.
Nearby Centennial is a quaint former mining town where it feels as though you’re stepping back in time. It provides the perfect setting to grab a meal before enjoying the impressive peaks of the Medicine Bow Wilderness.
What to see:
The Wyoming House for Historic Women is a place to reflect on the significant contributions of women in Laramie’s history from 150 years ago. A life-size statue of Louisa Swain stands in the plaza out front, while inside you’ll find plaques and materials honoring thirteen women pivotal to the Wyoming suffrage movement.
Breakin’ Through is a sculpture that celebrates women’s history, located on the University of Wyoming campus at the entrance to the War Memorial. It depicts a cowgirl breaking down barriers and was gifted by April Brimmer Kunz, the first female Senate President in Wyoming.
Laramie Plains Museum is situated in a mansion reflective of Laramie’s early boom years. This historic structure was converted to a girls’ school in 1921 and remained such until 1958. After falling into disrepair, the Laramie Woman’s Club rejuvenated the house, which was acquired by the Plains Museum in 1972. You can see examples of period clothing, furniture, and learn about groundbreaking figures like Nellie Tayloe Ross, the first female governor in the United States, and Mary G. Bellamy, the first woman elected to the Wyoming legislature in 1911.
The Bent and Rusty is an arts and crafts co-op primarily managed by women. You can not only shop for unique souvenirs but also participate in workshops and other events, such as pop-up pie sales.
Laramie’s Basecamp is a female-owned outfitter where you can acquire the clothing or gear you need for local outdoor adventures and receive excellent advice on what trails and climbing areas to explore. Run by Rebecca Walsh, the founder of Hike Like a Woman, the knowledgeable staff is sure to direct you appropriately.
Medicine Bow National Forest offers hikes for every skill level, with the Lewis Lake trail being a perfect starting point. This trail is not overly strenuous for beginner or intermediate hikers, and features beautiful views of Sugarloaf Mountain while you may spot pikas (charming little alpine rodents) chirping among the shrub grass.
Where to eat:
Sweet Melissa Cafe and Front Street Tavern are prominently located – the attractive purple exterior in downtown Laramie directs you to one of the oldest bars in the city alongside a cafe where owner Melissa serves delicious vegetarian options and creative cocktails.
Mountain View Hotel and Cafe is a charming establishment that has offered hospitality to visitors since 1907. Be sure to order the quiche for breakfast – you won’t regret it. Your hosts also roast their own exceptional coffee on-site, so refuel here before heading into the great outdoors, regardless of whether you are a hotel guest.
Where to stay:
The Vee Bar Guest Ranch is a classic Wyoming experience and has been in co-owner Kari Kilmer’s family for generations. Just thirty minutes outside Laramie, enjoy a stay in one of the cozy creek-side cabins, dine in the on-site dining room, or relax with a drink in the backroom bar frequented by locals sharing captivating stories.
South Pass City, Wyoming
Depending on your exploration time in Medicine Bow, you may want to stay overnight at the Mountain View Hotel (or return to Vee Bar) before proceeding four hours northwest to South Pass City – the birthplace of suffrage in the US.
From Highway 287, you’ll turn southwest onto Highway 28, part of which is designated as the Women’s Suffrage Pathway. This section begins at mile marker 44 (honoring Wyoming’s status as the 44th state) and runs 19 miles (recognizing the 19th Amendment) from South Pass City to the Shoshone National Forest.
This is where Esther Morris settled in a small log cabin on the fringes of the Carissa Mine, which had already seen its boom and was on the verge of a bust. Following her second husband, who she had two sons with, along with her eldest son from a previous marriage, she hoped to strike it rich from the area’s gold deposits.
Instead of achieving instant success, however, Morris faced a harsh reality: her husband frequently drank excessively and abused her – a cycle she halted as soon as she was appointed the town’s Justice of the Peace just one year after her arrival. She hadn’t actively sought the position; rather, territory politicians convinced her to accept it, presuming she would inevitably fail and thereby validate their belief that women’s suffrage was a misguided endeavor.
Consequently, Morris rose to the occasion, making arrests of both her abusive husband and the judge who vacated the position (ironically, due to his opposition to the legalization of women’s suffrage) when he refused to relinquish the court docket. Working from her modest cabin, none of her rulings were overturned despite her lack of formal education in the field.
Today, South Pass City is entirely preserved as a historic site, available for exploration from May to September. In addition to the Morris cabin, you can view seventeen original buildings and numerous artifacts depicting life on the rugged frontier.
Lander and Fort Washakie
After visiting South Pass City, head forty minutes north back on 28 and 287 to Lander, a charming location off the beaten path. Lander is perhaps best known as an outdoor hub, housing the National Outdoor Leadership School and the Wyoming Wildlife Federation.
Lander is also home to the Wind River Indian Reservation, where the Shoshone and Arapaho Tribes were relocated in the 1800s. Fort Washakie, known to the Arapaho as Ce’eyeino’oowu, was named after a prominent, beloved Shoshone chief. The most famous Shoshone woman, Sacagawea, guided Lewis and Clark on their expedition to the Pacific.
What to do:
The Lander Art Center showcases a variety of intriguing works alongside film screenings. The exhibition Earth and Fire, taking place from July through August 2020, highlights artists Laurie LaMere and Sharon Schell.
The Eastern Shoshone Cultural Center, located at Fort Washakie School, presents valuable indigenous artifacts and educates visitors on how the Shoshone and Arapaho tribes were influenced by the Indian Wars in the late 1800s.
The Sacagawea Gravesite marks one of the two sites where this renowned indigenous guide is believed to be buried. The location’s authenticity is corroborated by her tribe, and oral history indicates she returned there in 1884 after a long life beyond her pivotal role in the Lewis and Clark expedition. The cemetery is accessible off South Fork Road on the Wind River Reservation, at GPS Coordinates: 42.9928900, -108.9144100.
Wind River Canyon Scenic Byway warrants the 90-minute car ride, allowing you to enjoy views of Boysen State Park, the Owl Creek Mountains, ancient geology, and the Bighorn River, plus Thermopolis, home to the world’s largest natural mineral hot springs.
If you opt to follow the scenic byway, allocate time for fly fishing or white-water rafting, guided by Wind River Canyon Whitewater and Fly Fishing, a Native American-owned business.
Where to eat:
Savor delicious meals at The Middle Fork , a cozy restaurant established by Jenna Ackerman, who moved to Lander for the outdoor lifestyle and never left. The Three Grain Brûlée with cherry compote or the Coconut Cream French Toast – a gluten-free delight with cardamom whipped cream – are must-tries.
Where to stay:
The Mill House was once a flour mill dating back to 1888, now transformed into a lovely, Instagram-worthy B&B run by Jill Hunter. She came for rock climbing, with Shoshone National Forest and Sink’s Canyon offering numerous crags, but stayed for the vibrant community that attracts free spirits and female entrepreneurs.
Jackson
Traveling from Fort Washakie, it’s a three-hour drive to Jackson – among the most renowned mountain towns that serve as gateways to Grand Teton National Park and, further north, Yellowstone National Park. Jackson is also historically known for its female leadership. In 1893, Maggie Sullivan became the town’s postmaster, ultimately renaming the town – previously known as Marysvale.
In 1920, Jackson made history as the first city in the USA to be entirely managed by women – including Mayor Grace Miller and town marshal Pearl Williams, alongside an entirely female city council. Other notable women who left their mark on Jackson include Margaret Murie, fondly known as Mardy, who became a wilderness advocate in her later years and contributed the ranch she owned with her husband to Grand Teton National Park in 1968.
What to do:
The Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum offers an excellent opportunity to delve into the lives of the women of the Wild West era. Additionally, those interested in women’s history will find the Wyoming Women Historic Photographs and the Mountains to Manuscripts – Women’s Writing in Wyoming 1900-1950 exhibits (running through October 2020) particularly enlightening.
Take a tour using TravelStorysGPS, a woman-run app developed in Jackson that features not only an engaging listening library but also images, videos, and links serving as gateways from its “mini-podcasts.” Topics include the Wind River Indian Reservation near Fort Washakie, Teton Valley just north of Jackson, and lead to the city of Casper and Sheridan, the next stops on your road trip.
Grand Teton National Park, crudely named by French fur trappers for their resemblance to breasts, offers some of the most breathtaking scenery in Wyoming. Whether you stop briefly in Jackson on your women’s history road trip or stay longer to relish the ample hiking and backpacking opportunities in the Tetons, do not miss iconic sites like Mormon Row or the Cunningham Cabin, where early settlers homesteaded.
Where to eat:
The Snake River Brewery is an excellent spot to experience modern Jackson life. The classic order is Pako’s IPA, named after the Snake River mascot; however, you may be lucky to find a collaboration brew from the Pink Boots Society available on tap.
Every year, the Pink Boots Society teams up with breweries globally, including Snake River, to celebrate women in the beer industry with special brews like the MOXXIE mango pale ale or 2019 Equality Brew hoppy Belgian wit. Typically, a dollar per pint is donated to local nonprofits supporting women’s empowerment.
Where to stay:
The Antler Inn is conveniently located just a block away from Jackson’s dining and nightlife scene. Founder Clarene Law raised her family here while developing her business and later expanded her efforts to include three additional properties under the Town Square Inns umbrella. Law has also made her mark in Wyoming politics, having served as a seven-term state legislator.
Cody
Next on your itinerary is a drive north on 191 through Grand Teton National Park to the southern edge of Yellowstone National Park. As you turn east at Yellowstone Lake onto 14 (also called the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway), you will arrive in Cody, Wyoming – named after its founder, the legendary Pony Express rider, Union colonel, and showman.
What to do:
The Buffalo Bill Center of the West is where you can delve deeper into the life of Bill himself, who championed women’s suffrage and placed figures like Annie Oakley front and center in his Wild West Show. Additionally, learn about the essential roles women played within Plains Indian cultures, comprising the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara tribes.
The Whitney Western Art Museum operates under the Buffalo Bill Center umbrella but deserves special mention for exhibitions like Women in Wyoming – which features work by Wyoming native photographer Lindsay Linton Buk, on display until August 2, 2020. This show explores diverse themes related to women’s contributions to Wyoming’s life, history, and culture.
Interestingly, the museum is named after Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney, who also founded the Whitney American Art Museum in New York. Whitney was not just a prominent socialite but also a talented painter and sculptor. The Western Art Museum honors her because she created its first significant piece, the statue of Buffalo Bill.
Where to eat and stay:
Juniper is a comprehensive hospitality suite run by Michele Prevost that combines a bar, bottle shop, bistro, and B&B. There’s a patio where you can enjoy live music and cocktails, alongside a selection of 100 whiskeys.
Sheridan
After your day in Cody, continue east through Bighorn National Forest to Sheridan, Wyoming. This destination is perfect for resting your road-weary bones, just as countless travelers have done over the past century when Sheridan gained recognition as a railroad and rodeo town and a stop for those aspiring to be part of Buffalo Bill Cody’s Wild West Show.
If the three-hour drive (and any hiking you enjoyed in Bighorn or the Cloud Peak Wilderness) has left you thirsty, you’ll find a range of breweries in Sheridan, many owned by women or featuring women in prominent roles, alongside various entertainment options.
What to do:
The Union at The Montgomery is a women-run co-op that has transformed Sheridan’s former Montgomery Ward department store into a boutique shop. Here, you’ll discover vintage goods, home decor, jewelry, gifts, and souvenirs from your Wyoming adventure. If your timing is right, you might attend the annual Born in a Barn flea market hosted by Shelley Kinnison with carefully curated vendors offering everything from clothing to crafts.
The Brinton Museum was once the residence of the notable Brinton family, transformed into a museum by Helen Brinton in the early 1960s. It’s home to various pieces, including work by Catharine Critcher, the only female artist among the original Taos Society of Artists members, along with historic photos taken by Jessamine Spear Johnson. Visiting exhibits frequently highlight the works of regional female artists as well.
Where to eat and drink:
Black Tooth Brewery specializes in creative brews like Saddle Bronc Brown Ale and Copper Mule Ginger Lime Cream Ales, and has established itself as a staple in Sheridan, living up to its motto “Drink the West!”
Luminous Brewhouse is an excellent place to explore your beer preferences. Taproom manager Kathryn Law, along with the knowledgeable staff, can guide you through a menu featuring session ales, IPAs, and even caffeinated coffee ales.
In addition to a diverse beer selection, Smith Alley Brewing Company offers a full menu, including hearty pub appetizers, burgers, sandwiches, soups, and salads, often with a western twist, like the Burnin’ Love topped with Hatch green chile.
Where to stay:
As you head towards Casper, plan to stay at Paradise Guest Ranch, which has been welcoming guests for a century. Whether you prefer a night in a cabin or wish to extend your stay to enjoy horseback riding and fishing, you will undoubtedly experience authentic Wyoming hospitality.
