Although coronavirus was slow to arrive in South America, its impact is beginning to be felt across the continent. iBestTravel writers based in South America have faced disrupted travel plans, lockdowns, and increasing unrest. Here’s what many of them are saying about their experiences during the pandemic.
Mark Johanson in Santiago, Chile
Mark Johanson is a freelance journalist and iBestTravel writer who has lived in Santiago, Chile, since 2014. Major tourist attractions and national parks, including the iconic Torres del Paine, have been shut down indefinitely. The Rapa Nui community similarly closed the airport on Easter Island on March 17. The capital, Santiago, is on lockdown.
On Wednesday, March 18, Chile joined several other Latin American nations in shutting its borders to the outside world. Consequently, I’m now locked inside my adopted country with my Chilean partner and unable to visit the United States for the foreseeable future. It’s a daunting notion, knowing that your friends and family are no longer just a plane ride away in an emergency.
Chile, like much of South America, has been late to address the coronavirus. It was initially viewed as an abstract problem faced by distant nations. While pandemic fears escalated in Asia and Europe, only a handful of cases were reported here. Radio hosts even joked that coronavirus was merely a wealthy person’s disease, given that the few cases were concentrated in affluent neighborhoods of Santiago.
However, within 10 days, this perception shifted dramatically. The number of confirmed coronavirus cases in Chile surged to 1,306, up from 17 just over two weeks prior, making it the largest outbreak in Latin America outside Brazil, which has a population 12 times larger. The coronavirus transitioned from a minor news blip to the primary headline in a matter of days. The Chilean government is striving to follow the Korean model, acting quickly to control the spread, suggesting that the high number of cases may be attributed to a higher level of testing compared to neighboring countries.
My partner is now working from home, kids are participating in online classes, and anyone reentering the country from abroad must quarantine for 14 days. I have multiple friends in quarantine due to their children attending schools with infected individuals or having hurried back from abroad after their summer holidays. Much like other regions, panic has set in, and we’re now preparing for an extended period of social isolation.
Doug Murray in the Lake Atitlan region of Guatemala
Doug Murray is a travel writer who has made the Lake Atitlan area of Guatemala his second home for more than 10 years. He’s been in San Pedro la Laguna since late last year. On March 16, the country closed its borders. As of March 26, there were 25 confirmed coronavirus cases in Guatemala and one death.
Lake Atitlan, located about three hours west of Guatemala City, is one of the most significant attractions in the country. Many towns around the lake, including San Pedro, rely heavily on tourism for their economy. Aware of the impending situation, many tourists and ex-pats attempted to leave before borders closed, while some resigned themselves to remaining in the area. The government estimates about 3,000 tourists are currently stuck here.
So far, there hasn’t been any significant trouble. There’s minimal panic other than a few reports of hoarding in Guatemala City. The tiendas (small stores) remain well stocked, and most local restaurants offer delivery and takeout services.
Guatemalans around the lake (mostly indigenous Maya) are managing the crisis well, though there was a brief scuffle over the last eggs at the market yesterday.
My friends in Canada ask if I want to come home, but I can’t. I have an 84-year-old mother I wish to be closer to; nonetheless, I worry about having direct contact with her. Financial concerns linger as well. Fortunately, the bank machines are functional, and I have some cash secured with a friend.
Healthcare is notably poor in rural regions, so if the coronavirus takes hold, it could yield catastrophic consequences. Thankfully, none of the COVID-19 cases have been reported near Lake Atitlan.
After the past couple of weeks, I ponder what the coming days will unfold. Should I be worried? Will power remain uninterrupted? Will food supplies continue? For now, our small community is managing to hold together, and for the moment, this is a relatively favorable place to be. We shall see what tomorrow brings.
Alex Egerton in Colombia
Alex Egerton is a journalist focusing on travel and culture in Latin America and the Caribbean from rural Risaralda in the Coffee Axis of Colombia, where he has been based since 2014. While Colombia was initially somewhat slow to respond, the entire country is now on lockdown with land borders sealed until the end of May and both national and international flights grounded.
The coronavirus has now struck Colombia hard, with numerous instances of community transmission reported. Health experts warn that the nation is woefully unprepared for a widespread outbreak, plagued by corruption and inefficiency within the public health system.
Despite alarming warnings, the initial mood on the streets was somewhat casual. Many residents continued with their routines until local governments began implementing sweeping movement restrictions. Eventually, the national government adopted similar measures, resulting in a nationwide lockdown lasting approximately three weeks.
Stores are facing shortages of sanitary products; however, Colombians, who tend to be exceptionally social people, struggle to adhere to the stay-at-home orders. While city centers, normally bustling, have become deserted, life in many barrios (neighborhoods) continues mostly unchanged.
Nevertheless, for many Colombians and substantial numbers of Venezuelan migrants relying on the informal economy, the enforced stay-at-home measures have commenced to inflict hardship. Food security has emerged as a significant concern, leading to protests and even attempts at looting. Additionally, a riot over poor conditions in an overcrowded prison in the capital, Bogota, recently resulted in the deaths of 23 inmates, showcasing the rising tension and lack of trust in authorities.
Personally, I find myself in the fortunate position to work from home and have spent the last few days glued to various screens, trying to stay updated on national developments. When I need a break from the routine, instead of heading to a café as usual, I walk on my terrace, observing the surrounding hillsides where my neighbors are tending to their flourishing coffee plants, bearing scarlet beans ready for harvest. It’s a comforting sight, both for its familiarity and the reassurance that a coffee shortage isn’t likely to be an issue we face.
One of the most difficult aspects for many Colombians is the prohibition on nightlife. The inability to go out and dance has been met with resistance, as many flouted the restrictions when initially imposed. While the new lockdown measures have amplified the level of boredom, the capability of authorities to contain a restless populace remains to be determined.
Carolyn McCarthy in Chile
Carolyn McCarthy is a freelance travel writer living in Ensenada, Chile, where she has resided for eight years. Although the pandemic was slow to reach the rural areas of Chile, nationwide lockdowns are currently in effect, leading to the closure of many local businesses.
In the recent weeks, COVID-19 has made a decisive impact in Chile. Just over two weeks ago, I returned from Argentina’s Ibera wetlands, energized by warm days and wildlife encounters.
Initially, the virus seemed distant from my residence near the southern tip of South America, where services and trends typically arrive last. However, a UNESCO-heritage village in Patagonia, Caleta Tortel (population 436), recently went into lockdown after a tourist from a cruise ship tested positive for COVID-19. Cruises frequently visit much of southern Chile, and many of my acquaintances work in the tourism industry. Suddenly, the virus felt alarmingly close.
Chile soon closed its borders to non-residents, sending children home for a two-week quarantine as private businesses followed suit. National parks also shut their gates. My British partner, who was scheduled to visit, missed the cutoff for entry by just one day.
It benefits Chileans that they are no strangers to adversity. In 2008, the Chaiten volcano erupted in Pumalin Douglas Tompkins National Park, sending ash as far as Buenos Aires. In 2010, the country endured a massive earthquake and tsunami; in 2017, the very volcano I live on erupted again; and last year, we witnessed widespread social protests. Chilean resilience has been rigorously tested; however, I now fear the global ramifications of this new, unseen adversary. These days, as I work from home, I find solace in my rural environment, enjoying long walks just outside my door, accompanied by a puppy eager to join me.
I have often contemplated what a monastic life would entail, and this year I am discovering the answer.
