I bought an apartment in Lisbon back in 2015, at the start of the dual real estate and tourism booms that turned this long-overlooked city into one of Europe’s hottest destinations. I’m originally a native of Tucson, Arizona, though I’ve lived abroad since I was a teenager, mostly in Europe and Latin America. It was actually the rock bottom property prices that lured me here, but when I arrived, I fell head-over-heels for the city.
I loved it for so many reasons: its sublime golden light; its defiantly old-school way of doing things; its crumbling mansions, with their fancy tiles and caved-in roofs; and its Goldilocks’ size—neither too big, nor too small. Rather than just stashing my stuff in my Lisboeta pied à terre, I decided to move in as soon as possible. And of all the places I’ve ever lived, Lisbon is by far my favorite!
From my perch in the central Estrela neighborhood, I explore the fast-changing metropolis, checking out both the mushrooming hipster cafés and bars that cater to foreign visitors (which have injected a much-needed dose of excitement to the laid-back city), as well as Lisboeta classics, many of which have remained unchanged for decades, or even centuries.
Discovering Old-School Lisbon
When friends visit, I send them to the riverside neighborhood of Alcântara to soak up the feeling of old-school Lisbon, which is said to be Europe’s second-oldest capital, after Athens. Centuries of decline that followed Portugal’s heyday during the Age of the Discoveries, along with decades of stagnation in the 20th Century, under dictator António Salazar, conspired to preserve much of the city’s Old World charm. While the recent tourism boom is changing neighborhoods such as the Bairro Alto and Chiado, Alcântara, with its hole-in-the-wall restaurants and omnipresent clotheslines, heavy with drying laundry, is a relic of the Lisbon of old.
While you’re there, visit the Solar dos Nunes for an impeccable, high-end take on traditional Portuguese food. Moreover, if you overdose on local charm, head to the LX Factory, a cutting-edge hub for cool restaurants, shops, and co-working spaces, housed in an industrial complex that once contained a textile factory and a newspaper printing press.
Enjoying Lisbon’s Nightlife
When I’m up for a big night out, my friends and I head to Social B, where the barkeep invents cocktails to fit your taste and mood. The bar is the latest venture of Mikas Morais, the nightlife impresario who’s behind the nearby A Tabacaria, which is also well worth a visit. Additionally, in Lisbon, all roads inevitably lead to LuxFrágil, where we often end up dancing until dawn, as it gets packed around 4 am most weekends.
What to Pack for Lisbon
When packing for a trip to Lisbon, I make sure to warn my visitors to bring comfortable walking shoes with a lot of grip. While transportation options abound – there’s a decent metro system, buses, and trams, including the legendary Line 28E – the best way to explore Lisbon is by walking. Consequently, it’s relatively compact, but be warned: Lisbon is built on seven hills – some of them extremely steep – and the sidewalks are made, mosaic-style, out of bits of limestone that have been worn to almost ice-like slickness in certain patches.
Unique Shopping Experiences
No trip to Lisbon is complete without a visit to Livraria Bertrand, a sprawling bookstore that holds the Guinness World Record as the world’s oldest continuously open bookseller.
When I want to treat myself to a memorable dinner, I head to 100 Maneiras, the brainchild of Bosnian-born celebrity chef Ljubomir Stanisic. With its ever-changing tasting menu that draws on the flavors of Stanisic’s Balkan homeland and of Portugal – where he arrived as a teenage refugee after fleeing the war in Yugoslavia – 100 Maneiras is one of Lisbon’s most unique dining experiences. Reserve as far in advance as possible, as the restaurant is small and fills up days or even weeks ahead.
For everyday dining, Lisbon is a culinary paradise, offering one of the best quality-to-price ratios in Europe. My favorites include the Taberna do Calhau, a charming restaurant whose chef, Leopoldo Calhau, serves up authentic Alentejo dishes with a twist. To indulge my sweet tooth, I make a beeline for Nannarella, a gelato place in Estrela that serves up scoopfuls of flavors, including Fior de Basilico – vanilla infused with basil. The line often snakes out the door and down the block.
Family-Friendly Attractions
When visiting with kids, you can’t go wrong with a trip to the Oceanário de Lisboa, one of the world’s most unique and engaging aquariums.
For a dose of culture, I recommend the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Portugal’s answer to the Louvre. The museum boasts an enviable collection of European masters, including Dürer and Heronimous Bosch, as well as treasures from Portugal’s former colonies, which once stretched from Brazil to East Asia. Don’t miss the magnificent Namban Folding Screens, depicting the Portuguese arriving in Japan.
If I’m still hungry for culture and have a bit more time, I look further afield to the Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira, a 17th-century mansion near the Lisbon Zoo. This complex is worth visiting for the extravagant gardens and abundant tilework alone. The 13th Marquis de Fronteira and his family still reside on the property, making visits exclusively by guided tour. It’s advisable to call ahead to reserve.
Also far from the madding crowd is the Museu Nacional do Traje, a lesser-known collection of Portuguese fashions spanning centuries, housed in a restored mansion within sprawling wooded grounds.
Souvenir Shopping
To pick up a gift (for others or myself), the best one-stop shop is A Vida Portuguesa, a nostalgic celebration of all things Portuguese. At this gorgeous store, you can find embossed leather clogs, embroidered tea towels, Bordalo Pinheiro ceramics, old-school toothpaste, and fragrant soaps by Claus Porto.
The store’s newest location, in the up-and-coming Intendente neighbourhood, has something for everyone on your souvenir list – including you. Furthermore, another great place for gifts is Companhia Portugueza dos Chás, where you can stock up on loose-leaf teas sourced by the charming owners from around the world.
A Serene Escape
When I want to lose myself, I find solace in the Jardim Botanico, a verdant oasis tucked into one of Lisbon’s trendiest neighborhoods, Príncipe Real. If I feel peckish, I head to the Pastelaria Sao Roque, which has been serving up typical Portuguese pastries for decades.
This article provides a glimpse into the enchanting experience that Lisbon offers, from its rich cultural heritage to its vibrant culinary scene. Exploring this city reveals both the charm of its history and the excitement of its modern-day attractions.
