Savor Old Havana’s Street Food Delights with Lonely Planet

In a country with an indisputably rich mix of flavours in its culinary traditions – influenced by Spain, Africa, and the Caribbean – how do locals manage common shortages of supplies? What are their favourite snacks, regardless of the season? On a sunny January afternoon, we embarked on the iBestTravel Experiences Old Havana Street Eats tour powered by Urban Adventures to sample a selection of grab-and-go foods made on the busiest streets of Havana.

This excursion took us into the less touristy parts of a city where relentless ingenuity compensates for the irregular availability of ingredients. Interestingly, no one, not even our guide, knew exactly what we would discover on our culinary journey!

A sweet potato croquette.
A street in Old Havana © Diana Rita / iBestTravel

We started off at the Parque Central where our guide, Yanet, briefed us about Cuba’s dual-currency economy: Cuban Pesos (CUP) are primarily used by locals, while Cuban Convertibles (CUC) were introduced to facilitate purchases in specific stores. In recent years, local entrepreneurs have established new shops and stalls, thanks to updated regulations permitting independent businesses, including cafeterias and restaurants.

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Informed and ready to explore, we made our first stop at a small cafeteria located at Obrapía 465, where a friendly girl welcomed us with the day’s menu: chicken ropa vieja (shredded meat in a tomato sauce) with yucca, rice, and black beans. This simple dish highlighted pure flavour combined with local warmth.

A Japanese sweet potato croquette in front of a Havana street.
A Japanese sweet potato croquette in front of a Havana street © Diana Rita / iBestTravel

Next, we ventured to the intersection of Obrapía and Aguacate streets, where a Japanese immigrant shared her love for Cuba while offering us a selection of homemade sushi, accompanied by sweet potato croquettes seasoned with onion and herbs. As disposable materials are scarce in Cuba, we enjoyed our tasty samples directly from a piece of paper before transitioning to Aguacate for some freshly made guarapo (sugar cane juice), with a choice to add a splash of rum – perfect for an afternoon treat!

Diana Rita at a churro stall.
Diana Rita at a churro stall © Diana Rita / iBestTravel

Obispo boulevard offered a vibrant scene perfect for people-watching, allowing us to catch up as Yanet elaborated on how locals adapt to bring food to the table, utilizing the rationing system in local bodegas while complementing it with additional items bought in CUC stores. The boulevard was a delight for street food enthusiasts, with chiviricos (fried dough chips with sugar and condensed milk), churros, and chicharritas (sweet-potato chips) among our choices.

Our journey continued towards a pizza joint at the end of Obispo, where we savoured slices while discussing how even savory dishes in Cuba have a sweet twist. Yanet explained that the tomato sauce used to season various dishes, including pizzas, often has a uniquely sweet flavor. After a refreshing fruit juice stop next door, we concluded our two-hour culinary walk at the stunning Plaza Vieja.

A street stand of corn in Havana.
Boiled corn is served with butter and salt © Diana Rita / iBestTravel

To our delight, the final treat of the street food tour was boiled corn on sticks, generously topped with butter and salt right at Plaza Vieja. Its dense flavor and perfect tenderness were complemented by the melting butter graciously spread by a smiling vendor.

As we exchanged farewells, Yanet shared a peanut butter cream bar she had purchased earlier in the tour, allowing us to indulge our sweet cravings with a truly Cuban snack: turrón de maní.

Overall, this experience was much more than a food tour. It was enriched with ongoing cultural lessons, warm welcomes from locals, and a plethora of delicious snacks that revealed Havana’s hidden surprises at every corner.

Tour highlight:

Meeting a Japanese immigrant and sampling her personal sushi selection while discovering her journey of motherhood in Havana.

Perfect for:

Sampling local snacks and exploring the authentic, non-touristy side of Havana.

Don’t forget:

Comfortable walking shoes, a reusable water bottle, napkins, and an open mind for culinary adventure (plus cash for tipping your guide).

Final word:

This tour is exceptional as it provides a comprehensive overview of everyday life for Cubans, complemented by tasting their favorite street snacks.


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