Experience Kuopio – European Gastronomic Region of 2020
You’ve heard of the European Capital of Culture, but how about its tastier cousin? The European Gastronomic Region for 2020 is Kuopio, the capital of Finland’s beautiful lakeland region.
Finnish foodies know all about the exceptional Nordic produce grown, reared, and foraged here. The pristine elements combine to offer culinary delights ranging from sustainable game and fish to the wild herbs, berries, and mushrooms found in the area’s enchanting forests.
Locals here are passionate about food, filling the fleeting warmer months (May to August) with various foodie festivals. If your tummy helps you decide where to travel, it’ll certainly thank you for a trip to Kuopio.
Forest Foraging
There’s nothing more mindful than walking through a misty Savonian forest, searching for berries and mushrooms, getting on your knees to find an ample chanterelle or porcini nestled within the lichen.
Be sure to wear wellies if you’re foraging for cranberries, cloudberries, and blueberries that adorn the swampy ground around lakes. These ingredients work wonderfully as garnishes in a Finnish G&T your spirit of choice? Locally made Gustav Metsä ‘Nordic Forest’ gin, naturally.
While most of Finland’s forests are privately owned, ‘everyman’s rights’ allow the public to roam, forage, and fish with a line and rod in nature. However, only experienced foragers will know where to look and which of nature’s bounty is edible, so it’s wise to venture out with an expert guide.
Foraging is best around Jyrkkä; once an ironworks, it is now a charming lakeside village, dotted with smart Scandinavian cabins for rent. Local figure Henri Jauhiainen and his two black labradors will take care of you. He might even hunt a wild duck to grill over an open fire that same evening.
Traditional Finnish Open-Fire Cooking
After a day of foraging, you’ll have a healthy appetite. It’s time to retreat to a traditional Finnish grill house for dinner. These low, octagonal structures feature panoramic windows and a central open-fire grill where the Nordic magic occurs.
Henri’s menu begins with wild, super-lean duck ‘ceviche’ (think ruby-red strips of filet-mignon), delicately sliced from the bone and served on a waxed slab of aspen.
Heavily salted duck breasts are then grilled over sweet-smelling birch wood, accompanied by robust porcini mushrooms, stewed and sweetened with onions, cream, and thyme. A true game-changer, if you’ll excuse the pun.
Enhance your meal with a splash of cloudberry and white currant liqueur to reflect on the unforgettable dining experience you’ve just enjoyed. Still hungry? A slice of traditional blueberry crumble pie might hit the spot.
The Local Specialty
Kalakukko, or ‘fish rooster’, is Kuopio’s undisputed culinary specialty. This delicacy is a kind of rye pain pavé (square-shaped serving), hollowed out and filled with vendace fish and pork slathered in butter, slowly cooked to perfection.
Its unique flavor divides opinions, but you can sample it at one of the many independent vendors located within Kuopio’s Market Hall, where its art nouveau curves are easily spotted in the heart of the city’s central market square. With a warm smile and perhaps by purchasing a cup of fresh, sweet-meadow tea, a neighboring café may provide you with a knife and plate to savor it properly.
Fine Finnish Food
On a hill surrounded by yet another of Kuopio’s picturesque forests is Puijo Tower, one of the country’s most recognized landmarks. Not only does it offer the best views, but there is also a brand new restaurant at the top of the tower, providing high-end Finnish dining.
Dine on local poached pike perch served with browned butter, sautéed carrots, and whipped celeriac purée, while enjoying a constantly changing panorama – the restaurant completes a full 360° rotation every hour.
During colder months, guests might catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights; in midsummer, expect enchanting evenings filled with the midnight sun.
Back at ground level, stop by Restaurant Urban, where chef and owner Anssi Kantelinen – a winner of Finland’s Top Chef Suomi TV competition – serves up gourmet, affordably priced dishes.
For twelve euros, enjoy an exquisite plate of Finnish fare – such as slow-cooked red deer pasta – complete with dessert, as the menu changes daily. In 2020, the restaurant will remain open all summer for lunch for the first time.
Anssi’s favorite dish? Anything featuring the simple potato. “New potatoes arrive in June. I prepare them with local dill, milk, butter, and onions. People get very excited about it.”
Visit the Smallest Restaurant in the World
If you’re traveling as a couple, consider dining at Kuappi, the world’s smallest restaurant. This quaint wooden shack, located lakeside in the small town of Iisalmi, measures just 8 square meters and can only accommodate two diners.
Opt for a Finnish dish from the menu: crispy rye-breaded vendace, complemented with pickled cucumber (the Finns love pickling), marinated red onions, and mashed potatoes.
Pre-booking – which is mandatory two days in advance – can be arranged through the nearby restaurant Olutmestari, which operates from May to August.
Best Events in Kuopio for the European Region of Gastronomy 2020
A series of themed culinary weeks will take place from June throughout the summer. The focus will shift each week – from wild berries to freshwater fish – with guests able to enjoy expert-led workshops and secret dining experiences hosted by top chefs. A full program will be released in January 2020. Meanwhile, here are some of the exciting events you can anticipate:
- 1. Satoa Goes Wild, 12-13 June: The first food festival of the summer season focuses on wild food. Expect an abundance of Nordic berries, mushrooms, and herbs, hosted across various locations in Kuopio.
- 2. Kuopio Dance Festival, 12-13 June: On the same weekend, Kuopio presents Finland’s largest dance festival. Enjoy culinary delights and dance your heart out in and around Kuopio.
- 3. Strawberry Carnival, 17-19 July: The nearby town of Suonenjoki is renowned for its strawberries and hosts a carnival each year celebrating these delightful fruits, complete with live music and pop-up dining experiences.
- 4. Cheese and Wine Festival, 1 August: Based in Lapinlahti, this Savonian institution brings together the best local cheeses paired with a curated selection of complementary wines.
- 5. SATOA Kuopio Food Festival, 28 July-19 August: This marquee event celebrates the traditional harvest season with street food and performances from musicians and artists in Kuopio Market Square.
- 6. Anti Contemporary Art Festival, 8-13 September: This year’s theme will explore ‘food & gastronomy’. The Fish Market Weekend coincides, featuring workshops and picnics for all.
- 7. Kuopio European Christmas Market, 2-20 December: One of the best-known Christmas markets in the country, focusing on local produce, with experts available for guided tastings. Open Wednesday to Sunday.