A compact city that you can easily discover in two days, Seville yields its multiple treasures in an unhurried way, with minimal planning necessary. Find out how to take in Moorish architecture, fast-paced flamenco, and creative tapas as you spend a perfect weekend in Seville.
Friday
Afternoon/Evening
Start off by exploring the charming lanes of Barrio Santa Cruz, the old Jewish neighbourhood – this is quintessential Seville, characterized by tiled benches, orange trees, and narrow alleyways.
Then head towards the Torre del Oro: this 13th-century Moorish tower in the old port now serves as a naval museum where you can learn about the city’s maritime heritage. Children will love the model ships displayed here. All ships departed and arrived at this port on their voyages to and from the New World. Enjoy a stroll along the Guadalquivir river in the evening sunshine.
Stop for an ice-cold Cruzcampo beer and some tapas on the terrace of Mercado Lonja del Barranco: this gourmet market, located in a beautiful Eiffel-designed building, offers jamón ibérico, bull’s tail croquettes, and black squid ink salmorejo (a chilled soup). Next, cross Triana bridge to the vibrant gypsy quarter and continue your riverside route to Torre Sevilla hotel. If you’re fortunate, you’ll be whisked up to the 37th-floor panoramic terrace for a drink (note that it’s sometimes closed for private events). The glass-walled bar atop Andalucía’s tallest building has steep prices (around €6 for a glass of wine), but they’re worth it – you won’t get this mesmerizing 360-degree view anywhere else.
Alternatively, follow the river down to lively Triana bar El Embarcadero, featuring nautical-themed decor and a well-heeled crowd.
Saturday
Morning
If it’s your first visit to Seville, then start off at the Real Alcázar, Seville’s fabled Moorish-Gothic-Mudéjar-Renaissance palace. Ideally, arrive early to beat the crowds. Gaze in wonder at the bougainvillea-filled gardens, regal pavilions, and cool tiled halls, which have been featured in Game of Thrones. You can take a mid-morning refresher in the palace’s garden cafe while enjoying the company of resident peacocks.
Then wander up to Calle Sierpes, admiring the astonishing variety of fan and shoe shops, towards Metropol Parasol. Resembling six giant fungi, this is the largest wooden structure in the world, known locally as Las Setas (the Mushrooms). Take the lift to the top and follow the undulating walkway for breathtaking views over the city’s rooftops, identifying landmarks with the informative panels along the path.
Afternoon
Tucked away on a nearby back street is Zalata – expect a warm welcome from the restaurant’s Moroccan and Peruvian owners, whose innovative menu includes ceviche, lamb with couscous, and sardine burgers.
From here, a short walk leads you to Palacio de Las Dueñas, home of the late Duquesa de Alba. This eccentric aristocrat, devoted to the city, adored flamenco, Semana Santa (Holy Week), and Betis football club. You can explore her personal mementos as well as admire Renaissance paintings and 16th-century Flemish tapestries. Stroll through the gardens filled with lemon trees that once inspired Antonio Machado, one of Seville’s most celebrated poets.
Evening
Catch the early flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria – the dancers’ intricate, lightning-fast footwork will leave you breathless. The small exhibition upstairs explaining the gypsy music and dance form is worth a visit too. Afterwards, head to the Alameda de Hércules, and join the locals for an evening stroll with families and pets. Enjoy a meal at one of El Disparate’s outdoor tables, trying the tomato, watermelon and grilled sardine salad or the prawn and mushroom ravioli. Carry on the bohemian vibe upstairs at their roof terrace bar, with cool tunes and a delightful negroni.
Sunday
Morning
Kick off day two at Seville’s must-see Catedral – if you haven’t purchased tickets, you can buy them at El Salvador and skip the line. The basilica’s colossal scale is awe-inspiring (it is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world), featuring soaring ceilings and an array of astonishing artworks. If you’re pressed for time, consider using the children’s audio guide, which is shorter and still informative. Don’t miss Christopher Columbus’s elaborate tomb, supported by four knights, and make sure to ascend the Giralda, the celebrated bell tower that was once a minaret.
Pass through the old city wall at Postigo del Aceite (Oil Gate) and head towards the Arenal district, stopping by La Escalera del Colmaito delicatessen for local orange-flavored biscuits and shrimp-infused oil, before crossing the river to Triana. Have you noticed the azulejos (ceramic tiles) around the city? These tiles depict an array of designs, from Arabic geometric patterns to images of the Virgin Mary, and were made in this neighborhood at the Centro Cerámica Triana. In this former factory, you can learn about a centuries-old industry through Moorish kilns, 1950s advertisements, and testimonies from artisans who worked here.
Afternoon
Round the corner to Alfarería 21, another converted tile factory, for modern tapas (think cod, lemon and honey fritters or chicken and sherry croquettes) beautifully paired with a glass of chilled fino (a light, dry sherry). Now it’s time to explore the Parque de María Luisa. A convenient way to discover the park? Hire a chic electric bicycle from Oh My Bikes; if you prefer a more active experience, row a boat around the majestic canal of Plaza de España, which is spanned by four brick bridges adorned with ceramic-tiled balustrades.
Where to Stay
Bang in the centre – positioned at the intersection of two pedestrianised streets ensuring no traffic noise, with shops, restaurants, and monuments nearby – the Alminar offers cozy, stylish, and well-priced rooms. Consider splurging on a corner room for more natural light and a view of the Giralda.
A converted 19th-century mansion exuding luxury with gold headboards, damask bedspreads, and chandeliers, Hotel Casa 1800 is ideally located for visiting both the cathedral and Alcázar. Two standout features are a rooftop pool overlooking the iconic former minaret and a complimentary afternoon buffet for recharging after a day of exploration.
How to Get There
Seville San Pablo airport, located a 20-minute cab ride from the city centre, offers direct international flights to over 40 destinations, including London Stansted and Gatwick, Paris, Rome, Amsterdam, Brussels, and Munich. Find out more about getting to Seville.
