After a tumultuous two decades of political instability and civil war, calm has returned to Sri Lanka, and visitors are flooding back. This Indian Ocean island has a deserved reputation as a top spot for adventurous backpackers, but is it also a suitable destination for a family holiday? We set out to explore this very question.
Why Sri Lanka?
With so many tropical islands to choose from, what made us pick Sri Lanka? The variety of experiences it offers stands out. On our journey around the island, we marveled at ancient palaces, snorkeled on coral reefs, watched herds of elephants, and strolled barefoot on pristine beaches. Few places provide such diverse experiences in a manageable area.
Moreover, we aimed to pass on the joys of travel to our children. Having traveled widely in the past, we hoped to share similar experiences with our kids—aged 12 and 15—without any hassle. Our expectations included easy travel, good-value accommodation, and a family-friendly atmosphere, and Sri Lanka ticked all the boxes.
First steps in Negombo
The children were a bit unsure about what to expect, but in Negombo, just north of the capital Colombo, they experienced their first rickshaw ride, tasted a genuine South Asian curry, and saw the Indian Ocean. Witnessing their excitement reminded us of the joys of travel through childlike wonder.
Negombo also offered education in Sri Lankan history. European powers have influenced Sri Lanka for over 500 years. The British developed railways, the Portuguese constructed churches, and the Dutch built the Hamilton Canal, which still connects Puttalam to Colombo. A boat ride along this historic waterway led us to St. Mary’s Church, often referred to as ‘Little Rome’ due to its numerous historical churches.
Heading up-country
Venturing inland, our next destination was the complex of Buddhist cave temples at Dambulla, where ancient kings adorned natural caverns with magnificent statues of the Buddha over centuries. The highlight was the gigantic reclining Buddha, whose toes were larger than a 12-year-old’s head, much to our son’s fascination.
Cultural triangle
The countryside around Dambulla is rich with temples and historic sites, earning it the nickname of the Cultural Triangle. Nevertheless, we aimed to keep our itinerary manageable to prevent overwhelming our children. Instead of a series of temple tours, we focused our attention on the iconic Sigiriya, a stunning ruined palace perched atop a massive rock and surrounded by beautiful water gardens and frescoes.
Pachyderms on parade
After immersing ourselves in history, it was time for some wildlife adventures. At Kaudulla National Park, we saw majestic herds of elephants drinking at a shallow lake. Even though Kaudulla is a popular tourist spot, the elephants appeared undisturbed by the visitors.
Beach hut living
As promised, we took the kids to beautiful beaches, continuing our journey north to Trincomalee and Uppuveli. This once sleepy fishing village has transformed into a budding coastal resort, where we stayed in charming beach huts just a minute’s walk from the shoreline.
Beach life was ideal for family bonding, with swimming, paddling, and relaxing on the sand as our main activities. Intermittently, we explored the town, discovering elaborately decorated Tamil Hindu temples and bargaining for unique souvenirs.
Tea and trains in the hills
The final leg of our journey led us through Sri Lanka’s breathtaking Hill Country, where we stayed on a historic tea plantation. We had a fun, budget-friendly train ride through the verdant mountains, filling our hearts with the beauty of Sri Lanka’s landscape, even while my family made use of the cottage’s Wi-Fi.
In conclusion, our journey through Sri Lanka offered a blend of remarkable experiences, ranging from cultural immersion to thrilling wildlife encounters, ensuring a low-stress, value-packed family holiday. Our wonderful adventure showcased the beauty and diversity of this Indian Ocean paradise, making it a fantastic choice for family travel.
Practicalities
To kick off our trip, we stayed at a guesthouse in Negombo, which was conveniently located near Colombo airport. Our accommodations varied from comfortable midrange hotels to simple beach huts. Each step of the way, we arranged a car with a driver to ensure comfortable, flexible travel, minimizing any potential frustrations for our children.
For meals, we often enjoyed local delicacies in nearby restaurants or at our hotels, with ‘devilled calamari’ becoming a family favorite. We also prioritized staying hydrated by refilling our own bottles with purified tap water, aiming to reduce our environmental impact. Careful hand-washing practices helped us avoid any travel-related tummy troubles.
