Where Natural Beauty Becomes Nourishment
‘The day is coming when a single carrot, freshly observed, will set off a revolution’ – Paul Cézanne
Food has long been considered an art form worldwide, but few places craft dishes with such creative flair as Provence. Favourable environmental factors make this sun-drenched Mediterranean region a powerhouse of sumptuous local produce: flaky truffles, golden olive oils, plump vegetables, and freshly caught seafood. The Provençal kitchen revolves around these native ingredients, producing sophisticated dishes from simple, quality products. Even in the region’s Michelin-star restaurants, flash and pretension are traded for a love of hearty, seasonal dishes.
Supervised by chef Christophe Chiavola, the kitchen at Les Terrasses de l’Image in St-Rémy operates under the ‘locavore’ concept, relying exclusively on locally grown produce and the chef’s garden, which contributes to the sustainability of the region’s food.
Lounging in style along the waterfront of the Old Port in Marseilles, Le Poulpe takes pride in sourcing all of its ingredients from within a 200km radius of the city. Established in 2013 by childhood friends Michel Ankri and Michel Portos, it features inventive Mediterranean-inspired dishes like an octopus burger in a black bread bun.
Other top spots include double Michelin-starred L’Atelier Rabanel in Arles, which makes clean eating an artistic pursuit. Chef Jean-Luc’s ‘Greenstromie’ model harnesses the power of seasonal plants, vegetables, flowers, and wild herbs. For something less pious, settle in at Marie Georgette in Aix-en-Provence, where comfort food becomes classy creations—truffle cream burger, anyone?
Drink in the Natural Wonders
‘The truth is in nature, and I shall prove it’ – Paul Cézanne
Provence may not be the first place that springs to mind for French wines, but this region harbours a special secret that has made it a world-class winemaking area since the Ancient Greeks planted vines here approximately 2500 years ago. Known for its crisp biodynamic whites and rosés, the terroir here features mineral-rich soil, a sun-kissed climate, and the mystical Mistral winds, which keep the vines dry, ripe, and free of pests.
Wine tourism in Provence remains relatively new, offering vineyard visits with a rustic and exclusive feel. Uniquely perched on the slopes of the Cape Canaille sea cliff, the Clos St Magdeleine vineyard in Cassis produces a light, yet intense rosé thanks to the brine in the wine and the iodine in the soil. Rouge lovers should head inland to the vineyards of Château Romanin in Les Alpilles or Château de Gicon in Chusclan for rich, full-bodied vintages—reflecting the surrounding mountainous microclimate.
Drinking beer in a country known for its wine might seem unorthodox, but la petite mousse (the little foam) complements the Provençal landscape just as much as the art of Van Gogh. Archaeological evidence from as far back as the 5th century indicates the tradition of beer-making in Provence. Although craft beer and microbreweries are yet to achieve wine’s esteemed status, places like Brasserie de la Plaine are raising its profile. Established in 2013, this biodynamic brewery offers tastings, tours, and workshops for amateur brewers to perfect their pints.
Starry Night on the Town
‘I think that the night is more alive and more richly coloured than the day’ – Van Gogh
A significant aspect of the Provençal l’art de vivre is unwinding with friends, pastis (anise-flavored aperitif) in hand, for evenings filled with convivial conversation and cultural experiences. As the Provençal light fades, vibrant hubs like St Tropez and Monaco keep you entertained throughout the night. Sip afternoon aperitifs at the relaxed bar of Hotel l’Ermitage in St Tropez or enjoy finely crafted ales at Brasserie de Monaco. For a more spirited experience, try L’Esquinade.
During the day, the winding streets of old town in Nice thrive with flower stalls and vibrant food markets, but at night, they attract a lively crowd of night owls. The Snug & Cellar offers a quiet drink among the city’s more sophisticated pubs, while hip spots like Chez Wayne’s and the gay bar Le Six welcome party enthusiasts.
In Aix-en-Provence, soak in the warm evenings as crowds fill the terraces and squares surrounding place des Cardeurs, place de Verdun, and place de l’Hôtel de Ville. For a grittier scene, venture to the district around cours Julien in Marseille, where the city’s bohemian crowd creates a vibe that balances Mediterranean charm with Manhattan hustle. Spend the evening at Massilia, with its carefully curated menu of artisan brews and cocktails, or indulge in a full sensory experience at Living Art’s restaurant and live-music venue, which combines swanky interiors with wine tastings, jazz sessions, and art exhibitions.
An Urban Canvas
‘The purpose of art is washing the dust of daily life off our souls’ – Pablo Picasso
Much of the stunning imagery that makes Provence iconic has been immortalised through generations of great art: Cézanne decorated pastoral hills with terracotta-gold villages; Van Gogh painted forlorn farmhouses and fields of purple irises; Picasso’s Nude under a Pine Tree captures the rugged mountains and towering ferns of Mont Sainte-Victoire in an audaciously modern style.
Today, it is the urban spaces that attract new waves of artists to the region. Despite its hipster reputation, Marseille’s cours Julien is particularly celebrated for its vibrant street art scene.
The streets here have hosted urban art since the 1980s, but this bohemian enclave has experienced a recent resurgence in the art form in response to the city’s designation as European Capital of Culture in 2013. Initiatives now encourage urban art to thrive. An annual Street Art Festival invites local artists to ‘tag’ the cityscape according to a specific theme, while the MUR Marseille, a 3×5 metre exterior wall at the corner of rue Crudère and cours Julien, embodies the ephemeral spirit of this art by selecting new artists for redesign every two months.
However, it’s not just street art adding to this region’s artistic heritage. In 2014, construction commenced on Fondation Luma in Arles, a new experimental cultural center designed by Frank Gehry. While the main building won’t open until 2019, visitors can enjoy a dynamic program of events in the complex’s former railway warehouses.
Furthermore, Fondation Carmignac is set to open a new exhibition space on Île de Porquerolles in 2018, followed by the unveiling of the world’s largest museum dedicated to Pablo Picasso in Aix-en-Provence in 2021. This museum, housed in a former convent, will feature over 1000 works by the artist along with a research center, 200-seat auditorium, and workshops for pottery and etching—fostering modern interpretations of the region’s most iconic artistic figures.
