Unforgettable Experiences During the White Nights in St Petersburg
The few brief weeks of the White Nights – those incredible, luminous northern midsummer eves when the high latitudes are bathed in a pearlescent all-night glow – and sun-filled summer days in St Petersburg are an intoxicating time. By day, locals revel in the sun and the outdoor cafes; by night, there are festivals, concerts, and partying to indulge in.
This is when St Petersburg is at its most lustrous, when radost zhizni – the peculiarly Russian brand of joie de vivre – is irresistible. White Nights reveling starts in May when the city finally succumbs to spring and the parks are filled with flowering trees; however, mid-June is peak time as the sun slumps lazily towards the horizon but never fully sets. Here are some White Nights (and summer days) experiences not to miss in St Petersburg.
Have Fun on New Holland Island
The city’s stunning new green space and creative hub, New Holland Island, has quickly become a haven for artists, locals, and tourists alike. Outdoor concerts are the big draw in summer, but the area hosts a plethora of engaging activities: explore creative cuisine in the cool cafes, join yoga sessions on the grass, hone your drawing skills at a sketching class, and check out art installations and temporary exhibitions.
Stroll the Gardens and Sunbathe by the Neva
St Petersburg’s Summer Garden is specifically designed for leisurely strolls during languid summer days. Walking along its shady avenues adorned with classical white marble statues and soothing fountains is a quintessential St Petersburg experience. Mikhailovsky Garden, located right behind the Russian Museum, offers another splendid option; the huge blossoming lilacs on Mars field provide wonderful shade. Sunbathing by the Neva is also typically ‘Piter’ (as some Russians lovingly call the city). The riverside walls of the Peter & Paul Fortress are a favorite sun-lovers’ hangout.
Discover Your Inner Polar Bear
Lake Ladoga – source of the Neva – is a short train ride from the city, and its forested banks are a favorite Petersburger summer destination for picnics, canoe paddles, and refreshing swims. Komarova Beach in the Gulf of Finland is a fine mid-summer visit. It’s not the Caribbean, but you can feel a million miles away less than an hour from the city. Take icy dips in the Baltic here and breathe deep on the sea breeze; it’s really not that cold.
Stay Up All Night
You must experience this at least once during the White Nights season. There’s a unique euphoria in strolling the historic streets of the city at midnight while feeling like it’s still early evening. Start the night with a breezy outdoor dinner somewhere like Terrassa, then enjoy dancing at one of the understatedly cool nightclubs, such as Dom Beat. Alternatively, for an evening of bar-hopping, head to Dumskaya street, where four of St Petersburg’s hottest drinking and music spots are located.
Watch the Neva Bridges Open
The signature tradition of the White Nights is witnessing the spectacle of the massive Neva River bridges lifting to allow boat traffic at night. Watch from the riverside embankments or embark on a boat cruise to slip right through the heart of the midnight city. If you’re on foot, ensure you’re on the right side of the river to get back to your accommodation, as the metro ceases operation at midnight. With the bridges open until 5 am, crossing the river can pose a challenge; thus, be cautious of your location after a late-night adventure!
See the Stars of the White Nights
Midsummer traditionally marked a period when Russian performing artists took holidays or toured, leaving St Petersburg’s stages unusually quiet during this season. However, since 1993, the Mariinsky Theatre’s Valery Gergiev founded the spectacularly popular Stars of the White Nights Festival. Between the end of May and mid-July, enjoy nearly daily operas, ballets, and classical concerts at the Mariinsky, featuring top-notch Russian and international talent, along with outdoor concerts throughout the city.
Feel Like Royalty
In the tradition of European courts, Russian royals cherished their summer palaces as retreats from the bustling capital (St Petersburg had been the capital for over 200 years). Consequently, the city is surrounded by picturesque towns that grew around these summer palaces. In Pavlovsk, a vast woodland park leads to the palace gates; Pushkin is home to Catherine the Great’s famous Amber Room; Oranienbaum features beautifully landscaped parks, lakes, and historic buildings; and the crown jewel, Peterhof, displays spectacular fountains and ornate gardens. All of these destinations await exploration, but be careful on the polished ballroom floors!
Join the City’s Biggest Celebration
The pinnacle of the White Nights revelry, the Scarlet Sails in late June, is St Petersburg’s largest annual public gathering, attracting over a million attendees. Enjoy a mock pirate battle on the Neva River followed by a breathtaking firework display, culminating in the appearance of a tall ship with blood-red sails. This enchanting imagery stems from a beloved Russian children’s book, yet the Scarlet Sails have become a defining symbol of the White Nights, marking perhaps the most special moment of a St Petersburg summer, which anyone can witness from the embankment.
First published in January 2012