Local Miriam Berger is a freelance journalist based in Jerusalem. She has spent time in the city at different points throughout her life and feels privileged to call it home. An Arabic and Hebrew speaker, she enjoys exploring all parts of the city, often by sampling her way through its diverse culinary offerings and unique experiences.
When I have friends in town… we eat. I have my favorite falafel shops, such as Abu Shukri and the Yemenite Falafel Center, plus stops for Middle Eastern favorites like shakshuka at T’mol Shilshom and kunafeh (a warm, syrupy cheese-based pastry) at Jaafar Sweets. However, if you scratch Jerusalem’s surface, you’ll discover a far more diverse food scene: Ethiopian dishes at Dire, Georgian and Russian cuisine at Kangaroo, and Kurdish pastries at Ishtabach, showcasing the culinary complexities of this city and its vibrant culture.
When I’m up for a big night out… I’m more likely to venture to Tel Aviv or Ramallah where there’s a more energetic nightlife scene. Nevertheless, if I’m staying in Jerusalem, I’ll probably find myself dancing at Sira, Cassette Bar, or HaMazkeka. In Jerusalem, the weekend starts on Thursday night, creating a lively atmosphere before the Sabbath when most of the west side of the city shuts down. While Jerusalem lacks large clubs like those in Tel Aviv, it compensates with numerous restaurants, bars, and music venues. Even in places like Mahane Yehuda Market, spontaneous dancing might break out, adding to the vibrant atmosphere.
A typical weekend includes… ideally a long run past the First Station, which is an excellent place to spend a Saturday enjoying food or leisurely strolling. Additionally, there are wonderful day trips available around Jerusalem and in the West Bank, or you could unwind at relaxing cafes in the area, especially if, like me, your weekend often includes work.
For cheap eats… I admit that I frequently visit Cofizz and Cofix, Israel’s popular five-shekel coffee, juice, and food shops scattered throughout the western part of the city. On Jerusalem’s east side, I can’t resist the delicious bread and cheese pastries at Al Amin Sweets & Bakery and a hearty falafel sandwich at Al Ayed by Damascus Gate. Additionally, enjoying a simple Jerusalem kaak (a round Palestinian sesame bread) or a savory zaatar manakeesh (baked bread topped with a thyme spice mix) sold on the street can be immensely satisfying.
One thing I despise about living in Jerusalem… is that it can be a divided and heartbreaking city for its residents. However, that’s also why I’m here: to navigate between spaces and document my experiences. Be aware that holiday seasons can present unique challenges, so be sure to research Jewish, Christian, and Muslim holidays that may affect your itinerary. For instance, during Passover, only kosher food is available on the west side. Conversely, during Ramadan, much of the east side slows down but becomes bustling at night. Roads surrounding the Old City may also close during major religious festivals, affecting accessibility.
My favorite place to see the sunset… is from one of Jerusalem’s few rooftop restaurants, such as the Notre Dame Cheese & Wine Restaurant and View Cafe Bar at the Holy Land Hotel. Alternatively, I enjoy watching the sunset from the comfort of my backyard garden.
When I want to get out of the city… I feel fortunate regarding the options available to me. For a beach day, I might head to Tel Aviv or the Dead Sea, one of my favorite spots on earth. I often visit friends in Ramallah or unwind at Hosh Jasmin outside Bethlehem, or explore appealing areas such as Nablus or Ein Kerem.
I do my food shopping at… the Musrara shops and those near Damascus Gate. These areas have the most affordable prices and fresh produce. Here, you can find stalls and shops selling all kinds of fruits and vegetables, along with dry and canned goods, cleaning supplies, and essential items. On the west side, I frequently visit Mahane Yehuda Market, known for its organization and variety, which is packed with stalls and foods to suit every preference. Sometimes, I also explore the outskirts of an ultra-religious community to shop at small convenience stores, embracing the chance to interact with the locals. I welcome the onset of pomegranate and grapefruit season, but I despise when spinach season concludes.
One tip for visitors… Take the bus. Download transportation apps such as Moovit, Waze, and Maps.me to encourage yourself to explore parts of the city that you may not have considered visiting. One of my favorite approaches is to choose a restaurant in a neighborhood I’ve never visited and strike up conversations with the patrons there. Inquire about the experiences of individuals from diverse backgrounds; you’ll gain valuable insights about the city and its culture.
