Exploring the Legacy of the Icelandic Sagas
The Icelandic Sagas, epic tales of heroes and heroines, might have been written centuries ago but their legacy is alive and well today. Violence, ghosts, poetry, love triangles, and family feuds are just some of the themes found in the sagas, coming together to create iconic literature that both helped document Iceland’s history and shaped the country.
Modern Icelanders still know these stories; place names recall the colorful characters, and writers like Tolkien and George RR Martin were influenced by them. The landscapes and natural features are little changed from when those intrepid settlers first arrived here in the 9th and 10th centuries.
Northwest Iceland
Iceland’s northwest, particularly the Westfjords region, includes some of the most beautiful and least visited areas of the country. It’s the oldest part of Iceland, both geologically and historically, and is where most of the original settlers lived and where many of the sagas are set. It’s a region whose inhabitants still live in tiny settlements located in picturesque, isolated valleys just as the pioneering settlers would have centuries ago. It’s easy to appreciate the importance of maintaining harmonious relationships with neighbors in such settings, as small disputes in claustrophobic communities could escalate dramatically, just as depicted in many sagas. Here, we take a journey through the northwest, from south to north, exploring some of the most famous sagas, visiting sites connected to their larger-than-life characters, and enjoying the modern-day delights on offer.
The Saga of Egil: Borgarnes
A key sight for saga enthusiasts, or anyone interested in better understanding Iceland in general, is the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes.
The museum narrates two significant tales: one, the story of the earliest settlers of Iceland—a mix of Norwegians fleeing turbulent times back home and captured slaves from Britain and Ireland; and the other, the story of Egil, one of the most famous saga characters with a long, eventful story largely centered on his life. Described as a poet-murderer, he recited his first poem at the age of three and committed his first murder at the age of seven. Later in life, he offended the Norwegian king and queen during his travels, only saving himself by composing Head Ransom, a poem that so impressed the monarch that he spared Egil’s life. Many of the places mentioned in the saga lie in and around Borgarnes and can be visited today; ask at the centre for details.
The Saga of Erik the Red: Eiriksstaðir
By any normal standards, Erik the Red would be deemed quite a man. Involved in violent retaliation after his slaves were murdered by a neighbouring farmer in Iceland, he was banished and sailed west into the unknown. Eventually reaching land, he became the first European inhabitant of Greenland, founding a settlement and giving it its name to attract more settlers. He had several children, including Leif Erikson, whose famous exploration of North America overshadowed Erik’s not-unimpressive achievements.
For a fascinating look at how Erik and his contemporaries lived, visit Eiríksstaðir, a reconstruction of his longhouse, complete with brick walls, a turf roof, and a dark, atmospheric interior reflecting the challenges of close-quarter living. Proud locals dressed in period costumes share details about Erik’s and Leif’s extraordinary lives. Nearby, in the beautiful valley, stand the scant remains of the original buildings, telling further tales of the past.
The Saga of the People of Laxardal: Laugar and Dalir
Romantic intrigues are common in the Icelandic Sagas, but none is better known than the love triangle at the center of the Saga of the People of Laxardal, a story thought to have been written by a woman with extensive personal knowledge of the Dalir region where most of the events take place.
Guðrun, ‘the most beautiful woman ever to have grown up in Iceland’, is courted by inseparable foster brothers, Kjartan and Bolli. Although in love with Kjartan, Guðrun is persuaded by Bolli to marry him while Kjartan is in Norway. A tense atmosphere soon turns violent, leading to Kjartan’s death at the hands of Bolli and a series of revenge murders, spurred on by Guðrun, who eventually became a nun after marrying four times. Scholars still debate exactly who she loved most among the various men in her life.
For a relaxing space to ponder the quote yourself, take a dip in Guðrúnarlaug, a hot pot pool favoured by Guðrun. While few other tangible ruins remain, the landscapes across the Dalir region are largely unchanged, with names such as Hjardarholt reminding visitors of the lasting impact of the sagas and the original settlers.
The Saga of Gisli: &THingeryi and Haukadalur
More family feuding runs through the Saga of Gisli. Brothers and brothers-in-law clash after failing to fulfill blood oaths, and wives fantasize about men other than their husbands. Gisli himself commits murder and is then outlawed, living on the run for 13 years. Aided by his loving wife, Aud, who refuses to give up his whereabouts despite being offered silver, fate finally catches up with him, and he is killed while valiantly fighting his assailants.
Traveling around the stunning Westfjords region provides insight into the difficulties Gisli would have faced while on the run. Beautiful Dýrafjörður is central to much of the saga’s action, and its main ‘town’, &THingeyri, offers visitors the chance to engage in activities inspired by saga culture at the Skállin Viking Centre. Here, visitors can dress up in costumes, make traditional bread, and hear stories of how the earliest settlers lived in this harsh environment. Additionally, if you’re visiting during late June or early July, you can enjoy the vibrant Dýrafjarðardagar Viking Festival, further enriching your Icelandic experience.
Clifton traveled to Iceland with support from Promote Iceland and Visit Westfjords. iBestTravel contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
