The Channel Islands sit between Britain and France, loyal subjects of Her Majesty, but lying just off the French coast; British citizens living in a warmer, sunnier climate than the UK with local dialects originating in medieval Norman. The weather attracts outdoor enthusiasts for hiking, surfing, kayaking, coasteering, and diving. Ancient remains appeal to historians, while gourmets can indulge in superb local seafood and delicious ice cream made with rich milk from the ‘Jersey girls’.
Add to that a cluster of creeper-covered castles, crumbling coastal forts, poignant WWII museums, world-class sandy beaches, cobbled streets, and shaded country lanes, making the Channel Islands an exciting destination that can keep you busy for quite some time.
A jaunt around Jersey
Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands, has a lot to offer. Whether exploring by cycling its designated Green Lanes or driving a vintage car, don’t miss the following. On the east coast, explore Mont Orgueil Castle, then duck inland to check out the neolithic grave and coin hoard at Hougue Bie. Watch seawater shoot out of the Devil’s Hole on the north coast and enjoy cider- and wine-tasting at La Mare Wine Estate. Drive along the longest, straight stretch of beach on the west coast, watch the waves batter Corbière Lighthouse and sunbathe on Portelet Beach – Jersey’s loveliest. On your way back to St Helier, walk or take an amphibious vehicle across to Elizabeth Castle before finishing off with dinner in Jersey’s lively capital.
On a mission – Jersey Zoo
Founded by writer and naturalist Gerald Durrell in 1959, Jersey Zoo is regarded as one of the world’s best conservation zoos. Endangered creatures such as Andean bears, orangutans, and lowland gorillas roam spacious, forested enclosures, while the arid and tropical habitats house the critically endangered ploughshare tortoise from Madagascar, ‘mountain chicken’ frog from Montserrat and Dominica, and the blue iguana from the Cayman Islands. The zoo plays a vital role in conserving and breeding species that are at risk, facilitating their reintroduction into the wild.
Guernsey by bike
Guernsey, being the flattest of the Channel Islands, offers excellent opportunities for cycling along the numerous Ruettes Tranquilles (peaceful lanes). Explore the Creux ès Faies neolithic grave, visit the Fort Grey and Shipwreck Museum, and venture to the remote, tide-dependent Lihou Island on the west coast. En route from St Peter Port, the capital, swing by the stately Sausmarez Manor and the ancient Gran’mère du Chimquière menhir outside St Martin’s Church. The coast features beautiful beaches such as Pembroke Bay, Vazon Bay, and Côbo Bay, while the east invites you to the Déhus Dolmen, a significant Neolithic structure complete with a bearded tomb guardian.
Herm – car-free tranquility
Tiny, traffic-free Herm is a favorite with day trippers from Guernsey. A 40-minute boat ride from St Peter Port, this hilly island can be circumnavigated on foot in a few hours. Apart from scenic walking trails, attractions include the world-class Shell Beach, bordered by azure waters. Herm is also an important RAMSAR site (wetland of international importance); birdwatchers come here to observe puffins and other protected seabirds. History enthusiasts may wish to explore the flat grasslands at the north end of the island, dotted with neolithic tombs.
Stargazing in Sark
Sark feels like a step back in time. Ruled by a succession of hereditary seigneurs since 1563, it was Europe’s last feudal state until 2008. Today, horse-drawn buggies and cyclists navigate its unpaved lanes, passing tall cliffs and sweeping bays filled with powder-white sand. Measuring 3 miles by 1.5 miles, the island is easy to explore independently. However, taking a horse-drawn carriage tour is worthwhile to see main highlights. Don’t miss La Coupée (the narrow land bridge connecting Big Sark to Little Sark), swimming in the tide-filled Venus Pool at the southern end of Little Sark, or the exotic plants in the Seigneurie Gardens. On clear nights, the skies above Sark, which was the world’s first designated Dark Sky Island due to a lack of light pollution, beckon stargazers.
Away from it all in Alderney
The remotest of the Channel Islands, Alderney has a distinct character. The island was ringed with a string of forts during Victorian times to fend off the French; during WWII, it was heavily militarized by the Nazis. These crumbling fortifications are worth exploring, and whether you circle the island on a bike or walk the 10-mile coastal footpath, you’ll appreciate the beauty of its beaches, particularly Saye Bay, Bray Bay, and Corblets Bay. Nature lovers will enjoy boat trips to Les Etacs gannet colony off the coast while on land you might spot ‘blondies’, the local blond hedgehogs. The low-key village of St Anne serves as a peaceful base.
World War II relics
During WWII, the Channel Islands were the only British territory to come under Nazi occupation. Sobering memorials can be found on every island, from the remains of Lager Sylt concentration camp on Alderney to the stories of Guernsey POWs collected by the German Occupation Museum. The wealth of wartime memorabilia at Guernsey’s La Vallette Underground Military Museum and the Channel Islands Military Museum on Jersey are significant. The most poignant is the Jersey War Tunnels, the remnants of a Nazi underground hospital transformed into an interactive museum. Exhibits detail the hardships faced by the islanders, the use of Eastern European slave labor in Nazi construction projects, local rebellions against the Nazis, and the deportations of British-born islanders to Germany along with the Channel Islands’ eventual liberation.
Seafood heaven
The Channel Islands are renowned for their exceptional seafood dining scene, offering specialties such as sweet oysters from Herm, scallops and crabs from the coasts of Jersey and Guernsey, and Sark lobster. You can sample these delights at some of the islands’ finest restaurants, including Samphire, Bohemia, and Longueville Manor on Jersey, the refined La Sablonnerie on Sark, the elegant restaurant at Herm’s White House Hotel, and Guernsey’s Le Nautique, Hook, and Reunion, along with Alderney’s Georgian House, among others.
